First for those who have offered their suggestions input and advice and taking time to post on this thread and help me, thank you. I very much appreciate it and you have my gratitude. People have told me numerous things regarding what does transplant well. However I do have some questions still because I'm a little unclear on some stuff that has been said regarding transplanting. According to what some have said most of the time anything that is leafy and green (any kind of lettuce, spinach, and collards) is normally direct sown. However are the reasons that these crops are normally direct sown is because they don't make good candidates for seedling transplantation, or are they able to be started from seed ahead of time indoors and will they transplant well? Is it recommended that they're direct sown (as with root veggies) because they just don't transplant well or can you do either or with leafy green stuff (start them as seedling transplants indoors and then transplant them outdoors or is it recommended you direct sow them where they're to grow). Another question I have is that people have strongly recommended that I plant scallions, onions, and chives indoors then transplant them outdoors. However I thought as a rule-of-thumb that root veggies are to be direct sown because they don't transplant well. Are members of the onion family (chives, onion, and scallions) considered root vegetables? Another thing I have a question about is people who have responded to this thread said they normally direct sow peas. Is this because peas don't transplant well or does it make any difference whether or not they're direct sown or can they be started in peat pots indoors and the seedling transplants transplanted at outdoors at a later date? Also what is a root ball? I know that the root systems of seedlings that are started indoors have to be well developed before they're transplanted or when you go to transplant your seedling transplants they will just die. Justaguy2 something I don't understand is that you told me the secret to successful transplantation is starting seedlings quickly and having them transplanted 2-3 weeks after germination. What I don't understand is wouldn't that be transplanting the seedlings too soon? I don't really know anything about seedling transplanting but what I do know is that if the root systems of the plants you're transplanting aren't sufficiently developed when you go to transplant you're seedling transplants they will not transplant well at all. The other questions I have that people failed to answer that I asked are these: *I'd like to use the method of emulating a breeze for the seedlings via using a fan. When should I introduce this to the seedlings (how old should they be)? How many times a day should I use the fan to emulate a breeze for the seedlings and what is the length of time I should keep the fan on when I do this for the seedlings? The reason I'd like to do this is because it will overall make the seedlings stronger. I know that with seedlings when you transplant seedling transplants you are supposed to follow certain guidelines with temperature, time of day, and weather conditions. What are as a rule of thumb, these guidelines? When during the day should you transplant them? Morning? Afternoon? Evening? What should the weather be like? Also this is going to seem like a very dumb question but how do you carefully transplant seedlings well? I've never done seedling transplants so I don't know how to carefully transplant a seedling. I could use advice with this.

Bon, I'm glad you got the soil test done. Isn't it nice to know there's not a major deficiency of anything? Nitrogen often tests low even when it isn't low, so I always take the nitrogen part of a soil test with a grain of salt. The reason it can falsely test low has to do with the availability of nitrogen at cooler temperatures, for one thing, so soil tests done in cooler weather may show a nitrogen deficiency even when there is not one. This is one reason that some soil testing labs no longer even test for nitrogen. Legumes fix nitrogen from the air for their own use, but that nitrogen does not become available to other plants while the legumes are actively growing. The nitrogen from the legume plants is released into the soil when you allow the plants to break down and decompose after they die. During decomposition, the nitrogen is released into the soil for plants to use in the following growing season. One way to return the legume plants' nitrogen to the soil is to cut them off at ground level, leaving the roots in the ground. The roots will decompose in the ground. If you place the cut-off top growth right there on top of the ground, it will decompose there and release its nutrients, including nitrogen, into the soil beneath it. Or, you can pull up the plants and remove them, compost them on a compost pile, and return the compost to the garden. Interplanting legumes with corn can be more complicated than it sounds. If you are going to walk up and down the rows of corn---perhaps to treat the ears for corn earworms or European corn borers---you'll trample the legume plants to some extent. If snakes are an issue in your yard, they may like to hide in the legume plants beneath the corn plants because it will be a nice, shady space. If you use vigorously-growing legume plants, like many of the pole beans, they can climb all over the corn and shade the leaves too much. When I interplant beans with corn, I use only bush beans or half-runners, and some half-runners really get too large to grow with all but the tallest, sturdiest corn plants. You also can grow bush peas, including southern peas, or other legumes like clover or alfalfa to use for soil improvement, but they improve the soil for the corn only after the fact, not while the corn is growing. If your soil actually is nitrogen-deficient, you'll know it because the corn plants will be a lighter green than a healthy corn plant should be. I usually just add manure or compost to the corn-growing area in fall and winter, and it decomposes and is ready to feed the corn by planting time. If I want to grow a Three Sisters garden with corn, beans and squash interplanted, I plant the corn first. After it reaches a certain height, I add beans. If I want to use pole beans instead of bush beans or half-runners, I plant them on the fence on the north side of the corn and let them actually climb the fence. By the time the beans are climbing pretty high on the fence and are trying to stretch out and climb on the corn plants, the corn usually is about ready for harvest anyway. Once the ears are harvested, I let the pole beans ramble and roam their way from corn plant to corn plant. If you interplant pole beans with corn plants and plant them at the same time, the pole beans can outgrow the corn, timewise, and bury the corn plants under their foliage. Corn plants that are too shaded by vigorous bean foliage may not produce well, if at all. Dawn

The tests you want are: 1. pH 2. TDS 3. iron (more on this below) 4. bacteria 5. sulfates 6. Nitrates 7. Hardness 8. Manganese 9. turbidity anything else that tends to be a problem in your area - a local lab will know what these items are. A little more about iron: When you run water from the tap, does it have noticeable color, odor or particulates? If so, you may have ferric (particulate) iron. Is the water clear as it comes from the tap? If you fill a glass and let it sit for a few hours, does it develop color or particulates? If so, you may have ferrous (clear-water, dissolved) iron. Look on your state's website and search for water labs. There should be a number of certified labs available. A local lab is your best option because they will know if there are any issues in your area that you need to be aware of, and the testing will happen more quickly which will vastly improve ferrous iron and volatiles (if applicable) accuracy.

Dealer called...they have ordered a motor, timer, and springs.. (((sigh))) they will not file a claim for a replacement washer. They said my warranty covers **repairs* not replacement unless the service tech finially says I don't know what's wrong and I don't know how to fix it...he won't say that...sooo..they will install new parts. They are correct that the warranty is a repair warranty. Dadoes what do you think... Friction ring Milk stool Base plate Pump Belt Motor Timer Springs What's left? I don't know what to think...I suppose if I'm left with a correctly working machine that will be good..but I keep thinking ...if a car is totaled than rebuilt its never the same again...wonder if that's what will happen to this washer.