Acadia white cabinets vs linen white . . . thoughts!
athensmomof3
12 years ago
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brianadarnell
12 years agosusanlynn2012
12 years agoRelated Discussions
White Dove vs Cloud White vs Simply White
Comments (4)I painted my cabinets last summer, my house faces south, so I get lots of sun too. I got samples of White Dove and 3 others that I cannot recall (probably what you mentioned or close). I did not like White Dove on the swatch at all, but I kept an open mind. I painted all 4 on poster boards and looked at them for a few days and did a process of elimination. White Dove won! I LOVE the way my cabinets look.....white without being stark, but no undertones. I used Cabinet Coat paint from BM and they tinted it White Dove for me. Hope that helps.......See MoreWhich cabinet color-Simply White vs. White Dove?
Comments (134)I always use an extender with Aura. It gives you more time before drying. If you're painting a bathroom, research "surfactant leaching." This happens when the paint in a bathroom isn't fully cured, and you use the shower. Google photos of surfactant leaching. Most paint stores will say latex cures in a few days, but I had this problem in two homes and did extensive research. You get ugly drips down the walls, and they are yellow or brown. You can wash it off, but it comes back. Now, when I paint a bathroom, I wait 30 days before using the shower. That may be overkill, and if you only have one shower, that would not be possible....See MoreCabinet finish - white stain vs white paint
Comments (16)Imsparkie, your kitchen looks really cool - I hope you keep us posted about your progress. I understand the effect that you are trying to achieve. Having some depth and variation is a really great idea for adding interest to slab fronts. I'm planning solid oak gray stained slab fronts for my small kitchen, but I was driving myself *nuts* trying to figure out *how*. It was a thread here on GW that pointed me to an excellent option: Rubio Monocoat. It's a Belgian product that is designed for floors so it's more than up for the job for cabinet fronts. From my research, it is a new category of products (there are a couple of other brands of this kind of modern hardwax oil). It has many many benefits over custom stains, hardware store options, etc. What I found is that those products weren't opaque enough for the look that I was trying to achieve. I have applied it myself and it's an *easy* DIY job if you do proper wood prep (use their cleaner) and follow instructions exactly. I have no experience with wood finishing so knew that complicated application methods weren't for me. I loved the samples that I tried. The finish is beautifully matte, yet water beads up nicely and it seems very durable. I recommend that you order samples and try this yourself if you're interested. Plan to take some time getting the right combination if you use two-step process. The wood species makes a *huge* difference. If you want to see grain, oak is by far the best readily available option. Also, how the wood is prepped makes a difference in how the Oil soaks in (sanding, Monocoat Raw Wood cleaner, 'water popping' to raise grain), so ideally you'd be working with a sample cabinet door for your final testing. Some of the Monocoal Oils are coloured (incl a number of whites), but if you want a more opaque finish with stronger colour, you can apply a 'precolor' - I'll be doing that with my gray stained cabinet to achieve an 'almost painted' look that still shows the dimension and depth of the grain. You will probably need the precolor to get the colour strong enough for your look. The cool thing is you can MIX precolors with each other to blend a custom colour. You can also mix the Oils with each other. So the possibilities are endless and you should be able to create the look you want with experimentation. Because there are so many colours of precolors and oils, the combinations are endless and creating large sample boards is a *must*. Natural Oil Finish 2C Part A (no accelerator B) http://www.monocoat.us/Natural-Oil-Finish - recommended to use no accelerator for cabinet fronts for long 'open time', but takes 21 days to cure (instead of 7). Precolor Easy 14 Unique Shades http://www.monocoat.us/Precolor-Easy/ Application Instructions: https://store-adb79.mybigcommerce.com/content/pdf/RM Furniture Data.2.14.pdf pretty impressive resistance testing results: http://www.monocoat.us/Resistance-Testing/ See my thread for endless detail about my quest for an elusive finish look :) . http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0416442910326.html HTH! If you're interested in pursuing this, I have some ideas about how you might achieve lavender/white look with Rubio products based on my test boards. This post was edited by feisty68 on Sat, Jun 21, 14 at 15:44...See MoreBM Linen White or Navajo white -- your thoughts please. . .
Comments (14)My 2 cents. I'd skip Navajo white. I think every track home in San Diego (and probably beyond) was painted Navajo white in the 1980's. Every painted surface including doors and ceilings, including mine. I never liked it, but lived with it for years because it was just too much trouble and expense to repaint everything. Maybe that's why it's a big seller. Been kicking myself since because our paint match wood shutters also need to be refinished to match the white trim and doors we have now. To me the Navajo white has a greenish undertone and looks kind of dirty compared to other colors. Nicotine White is what it's disparaging called here. Can't tell you what to have only what you shouldn't and that would be 1980's track home Navajo White! I'm sure linen and a million other colors are better. When we repainted we went with Botony Beige fron Frazee. On the paint chip it looked slightely darker in tone, but on the walls it's not and it has a more neutral to warm base than the Navajo. Good luck....See Moreathensmomof3
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