I did that like 20 years ago. Still there. You'll be fine.
The key I think is a serious cleaning and a good sanding.

The general interpretation of a "laminate" in kitchen counters is that it is formica, and in their original configuration are referred as square edged. The field was a flat slab with a metal or formica edge band and the backsplash was a separate piece with a formica top band where it was trimmed to fit to the wall.

Which it sounds like what you have.

The modern form is called Bull-nose and back-cove and is a roll formed monolithic single piece.

Formica 2000 is a totally different product and is an alternative to corian.

As opposed to a GC, you mite find a formica fabricator on your area for an estimate.

alygal:

I just turned this:

Into this:

Make sure your seams look like this:

To answer your question, no, it is not necessary to remove old laminate if the existing is stuck really well. It would be more cost effective to make new tops at a shop and install them than it would be to remove old laminate and recover.

Sanding the tops beforehand need only clean the surface and remove any gloss; deep belt sander marks are a waste of time.

I couldn't get any nonflammable contact cement and had to use flammable. Fortunately I'm in Florida, there were no pilot lights, and the doors could be wide open. Contact cement fumes are heavier than air and travel along the floor until they reach a point of ignition. Obviously this cannot be overemphasized, as well as the use of flammable solvents to clean brushes and dribbles. A fire extinguisher is a must-have.

If you're getting this done for around $25.00 per square foot, backsplashs included, you're about right.

The first part of the trick to getting inconspicuous plastic laminate seams is to cut each butting piece simultaneously. Clamp both pieces about 1/4" apart and run a 1/2" double flute bit on a router between them guided by a clamped straightedge.

After the contact cement has "dried" (squeaky when you drag the back of your fingers over it) 1/4" dowels are laid every foot or so to allow the piece to be positioned without sticking.The second part of getting a tight seam is to stick the first 4" or so of the seamed edges together, leave a dowel, pull several dowels and stick the piece. Pull the dowel between the stuck sides and work the hump to flat toward the seam. Too much hump and you'll split the laminate, too little and your seam won't be as tight as it could be. It's exciting.

After the laminate is stuck and rolled you may have a bump somewhere. If so, you have to guess if it's just a glue goober or a chip contamination. With a plywood or MDF substrate, you can cover the hump with a board and whack it with a hammer to flatten it, no matter what it is, however, if it's a chip between new and old laminates, your new one is probably going to suffer badly. This is really exciting. Good luck.

Thanks for your thoughtful replies.
Snoonby, Yes it is square-edged as you say. I'm replacing for the same - no bull-nose edging. It will be self-edged.

Bid came in at $1420 which includes removal/replacement of sink and also to have 2x4 mini subway back-splash (basic white Dal-Tile) installed. We are moving appliances ourselves.

There are only two counters plus short ones either side of free standing electric range. This is a galley style kitchen - not a lot of counter space.

I feel the bid is fair, had another one for 1750 but they would remove old laminate, sand old base and set new laminate over that. I just didn't know what is best. If I can get 15 years out of the laminate I will be okay with that.

There are also some alternatives to the edging, as aesthetic enhancers, such as wood molding and splined trim.

"Trebruchet"

Has detailed the process, so you know whats coming.

Wow! Those look great...how difficult was it to do? Anyone install their own? I only have small areas...no island or peninsula :)

You could do it, lavender. Check youtube. I'm sure there will be videos. Just remember the dowels or yardsticks or something on the contact cement that was applied to the counter before you lay the Formica on it. If the Formica touches before you are positioned you're SOL.

Thanks, Lov_mkitchen! :)

I remember seeing something like that on This Old House...years ago. The dowels seemed to be a big deal! LOL Bob and Norm had to lay the new surface down three times (I think) before it lined up right.

"Wow! Those look great...how difficult was it to do? Anyone install their own? I only have small areas...no island or peninsula :)"

lavender lass:

It was straightforward for me, but I've had extensive experience in the store fixture manufacturing business. I can stick laminate in my sleep. email me with any questions or concerns.

Thanks! It won't be right away, but I would like to see if it's something I could do this spring :)

Yep, there is a learning curve, patience is a virtue, flammable is the best, along with a high quality laminate trimer and a sharp file.