Cabinet pull out, how functional?
kitchenchaos
16 years ago
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Comments (20)
teched
16 years agoRelated Discussions
knobs or pulls on cabinets - function vs. look
Comments (21)Ours is a working kitchen, so looks are important but function is more important. Think eye-hand coordination--what does it feel like to reach for the knob/pull and how difficult is it to aim and land on the item without thinking very much? [for me this rules out the catches that are little locks] How far does the finger area stand proud of the cabinet? [1 inch is probably insufficient.] Can it be used with other parts of the hand or are the fingertips essential to using it? Is a grip required? [hard for arthritic fingers] Will it push the fingers and hand back onto the cabinet or is there sufficient clearance so cab is not touched? Would a ring on a finger scrape the cab? If someone uses it with a glob of egg yolk or frosting on the fingers and this dries on the knob/pull, how hard will it be to clean it? [Extra points for knobs that are flat at back that can be opened with the side of a hand if fingers are messy (see posting above) or can be opened with fingers in V pattern.] Does your body need to be directly in front of knob/pull or can you pull strategically from the side? [This is a problem with many bin pulls and is reason I have decided against them. I hope that I can hook a finger into one of two hoop pulls and guide a drawer open even when standing caddywompus to drawer.] Knowing that I used to wash a 3-4 inch circle around the small ceramic knobs on my old cabs in order to remove the accumulating grime, I am hoping to keep my cabs cleaner by using open 5 inch pulls that rise 1.25 out from the cab. Wonder if it will work. Out of nostalgia, just want to post one of the pulls I once lusted after:...See MoreBigger sink cabinet or spice pull-out?
Comments (16)What if you did a blind corner pullout instead of the 15" cabinet & super susan to the right of the range? (See link below) You could have the cabinet people make the cabinet front into a faux set of drawers to visually match the drawers on the left side of the range to get your symmetry. The door would be hinged on the right and open toward the sink wall. My Mom did this in almost the exact same scenario at the corner (- the faux drawer front) & it works great. Then you could also have a bigger spice pullout next to the sink. We have a large spice pullout (15" wide & 3 tiers) & it holds our salt, pepper, cooking oil, non-stick spray, flavorings, spices, sprinkles, etc. I don't think they called it a spice pullout though--maybe an undercounter pullout pantry? Ours does have a faux front with a drawer over cabinet look to make it symmetrical with the other side of the range. I would see about changing the exterior of the spice pullout to look like a cabinet vs. a column as there is no matching column on the other side of the sink which makes it look awkward & out of place to me. Unless you're going with a large D-shaped sink, I would be tempted to eliminate the cabinet on the end of the sink run, slide the DW down to the end & enlarge the sink to a 36" base that would allow for a very nice size double sink. Overall, I really like your plan. Hope this helps! Here is a link that might be useful: Blind Corner Pullout...See MoreHow can I add pull-outs to my double kitchen cabinets
Comments (3)I take it you have face frame cabinets from what you describe. I've been planning on doing something similar to a cabinet with double doors and a piece of the frame in between. Here's what I'm planning to do. The center strip in mine is screwed in with 4 pocket screws, 2 at the top and 2 at the bottom. Use a flash light and try and see what type of head it has before you get started. Get a peice of 3/4" square stock cut it a couple inches less than the height of the opening. Glue and screw it to the side of that center peice so that it's flush with the front. Predrill is a must, countersink is optional but nice. Leave a gap at the top and bottom. Next close the door on the side where you attached the 3/4" piece. Then predrill and screw but don't glue it in. You just want to get the holes in, then remove the screws to the door. Now you want to remove that center piece from the cabinet box. First you want to take a utility knife and score the finish on the top and bottom to keep it from chipping. Maybe the back too. Then unscrew it. If it doesn't come right out, use a thin bladed saw to cut the top and bottom. It might be glued. Might be a good idea here to sand the top and bottom to give you some extra clearance and seal the fresh wood on the top and bottom. Then attach that center piece to the door lining it up with the holes you made previously. Now that cabinet pretty much looks like it did before except when you open the door the center piece comes with it and you have full access. For the rest, read these instructions for making pull out shelves for your cabinets....See MoreTilt-out cabinet below sink - pull or no pull?
Comments (11)Follow up - thanks for all the suggestions. I think the issue is the leaning against the sink while doing dishes..belt buckles and zippers will scratch the handle, or perhaps the handle will get in the way or just feel like an obstruction. My sister-in-law has a handle on her tilt-out drawer and says it's no problem, but she has a 1 inch overhang of counter. My overhang is not that big. I'm considering a finger-pull for just the tilt-outs. It'll be barely visible but will allow me to open it. I'm buying enough traditional pulls in case I change my mind!...See More3katz4me
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