Couple comments... I would recommend a quiet dishwasher and one that is an under sink drawer type to save space.

Stainless steel countertops are love 'em/hate 'em - might affect resale. I would do a traditional stone.

Black counters will make room look small - did you consider gray? Modern feel, but lighter so more spacious feeling.

Lots of good choices.
If you could have larger counter area, would you agree to do what it takes to get more counter?

A mural is good.
Three pendants not four.
The rectangle is good.
Charcoal or lighter floor.

Dishwasher: Consider two other options
a single drawer DW 15"h by 24"w (which doesn't take up much room when open!)
or an 18"w by 34"h DW (the 18" Miele has lots of good features)
Because no future buyer of your condo wants a 24"w full height DW.
(Modern DW's have more volume inside them than ever before, b.t.w.)
Is there no garbage disposal? This is OK.
Be sure about the DW Tee "fitting" above the sink drain. Also called a DW Wye.
Is the sink drain pipe being lengthened, shortened or kept the same length?
Be sure the DW drain hose gets looped up and attached to the underside of the counter before it turns down to the Tee/Wye.
Buy no DW at all (leave the space open) until you are ready for it at the end of the whole renovation.
Because you are intending not to use it anyway.

If adding new circuits, get the wire that could in the future carry more current: this is good for you and for resale.
Consider adding the circuit to allow a 15"h by 24"w built in MW oven drawer (depth is 26").
B.t.w. Ikea built in MW ovens are 18"h. They are pulldown doors, not drawers.

Consider making one counter deeper and one narrower.
It's the same cost for the granite/quartz or steel counter.
If not, consider cutting off 2.5" from the backs of the Ikea bases.
This gives you more leg room under the counter overhang.
Ikea drawers don't need more than 20.5" depth. A bit more with the softclose dampers.
Ikea drawers are all Blum quality.
With Ikea drawer fronts in a small kitchen, get Ikea Klippig handles.
Have all drawers even under the sink, no exceptions.
Anything else in unaesthetic unattractive inconsistent unworthy of resale.
Put a chest freezer somewhere outside the kitchen.
Then, get a fridge-only. They are huge inside. A 24" column.
This gives you more counter. You can get a famous brand name fridge-only.
The image you have posted looks like a side by side fridge/freezer. A no-no for many; the freezer's shelves hold only small things.
The far wall: mirror. Hmm. Yes, but not all in one big mirror. Break it up.
Beware of too much mirror in the wrong places. Facing you when you walk in. Hmm.
I like mirror and glass for small spaces.
Ikea has lots of cute mirrors. Sets of nine. Ovals. Whatever.
Ikea Norrsken lighting is an idea for you since you have the ceiling height.
I surmise there is one door opening. Not at both ends.
I surmise there is no vent and will not be any.
I surmise there is no window.
Then, don't go black on the base drawer fronts.
Keep it lighter than that. Not darker than the floor.
In the kickplate space, use Ikea Capita legs.
This keeps it lightweight and floating not anchored and pasted.
It has other advantages too numerous to mention in this first go.
The disadvantage is that someone has to clean the floor under the cabinets. Uh huh. Or your roomba does that.
To use the 10' high ceiling your mural could be huge.
Having only two stainless shelves is an excellent choice.
The lower shelf with the drain grid where washed dishes can drip into the sink can be made with "plate rack" from richelieu.com (e.g. #555170) which can be built in to your stainless shelves.
In 2011 induction is the only option.

Welcome Thealeph! Have you had a chance to read the "Read Me" thread? In particular, the "Layout Help" section?

To be honest, it's difficult to read your floor plan. Could you either draw it up free-hand or draw it up so it's easier to read via whatever product you're using?

What sizes are your various fixtures & appliances?

I would stick to a 24" DW b/c not only will it be less expensive than an 18" but I think it will be more useful over time...especially as your family size increases.

I would also stick with standard counters on each side...not only will the various appliances fit much better, but it will also allow you to have much more functional workspace. Workspace shallower than the standard 25.5" isn't very useful for much of anything. Because of the small width of each counter run, this is one case when a deeper counter, while nice, will cost you more in overall workspace than you would gain in a deeper much more limited amount of space. You want to have room for at least two people working in the kitchen...and that means adequate counter/work space.

You're going to have a very narrow aisle...33", so I would consider putting the refrigerator closer to the entrance. Why? Because it will then be accessible to outsiders w/o them interfering/getting in the way of someone working in the kitchen. [Kitchen width = 7' = 84"; 84" - 25.5" left wall - 25.5" right wall = 33" left for the aisle]

I would also consider putting the range on the end of the counter run opposite the kitchen entrance. First, ranges are usually two or three inches deeper than the surrounding cabinets/counters (remember to count the doors & handles). Second, with a narrow aisle, you don't want to have to squeeze past someone cooking...not particularly safe. Last, It's not a good idea to put a range in a doorway w/o adequate safety clearances...18" to 24" b/w it and the doorway.

You might also consider getting counters only 25" deep, that would add an inch to your aisle width. It may not sound like much, but with your narrow aisle, every inch is an improvement. [25" deep counters are deep enough to cover the cabinet carcass/box + 1" thick door/drawer front. Counters flush w/the cabinet doors/drawer fronts fit with your preferred aesthetic of a "clean, minimal" look.]

How big is your pantry? Would the freezer fit in it? If so, consider putting the freezer in the pantry and getting a 24" all-refrigerator for the kitchen itself.

Regardless, I very, very strongly recommend a built-in refrigerator. Yes, they cost more, but the cost will be more than offset by the space savings. (I don't know which model SZ refrigerator you're considering.)

Cat food/water...would it also fit in the pantry or elsewhere? I'm a little worried about that aisle width again. I think having your cat(s) eat/drink elsewhere would work better.

Induction vs standard electric (induction is also electric)...I do recommend induction for increased cooking performance as well as safety (future children!) and less cleanup issues. If you decide against induction, at least get a glass top range so you can use the range for counter/work space when not being used for cooking.

Don't forget a range hood over the range. You need a way to vent out odors, smoke, grease, etc. Even if you cannot vent outside b/c of building regulations, at least get a good recirculating hood. While recirculating hoods don't come close to being as effective as an externally vented hood, they're still better than none at all...especially in a small kitchen and home!

One last question...are there walls flanking the kitchen entrance? I mean walls that are 90 degrees to the long kitchen walls. If so, consider removing them to gain 4.5" on each side.

++++++++++++

BTW...you're probably not receiving emails of follow-up postings, even though you checked the box requesting them. This is b/c you don't have the email option turned on in your profile. See the "Read Me" thread for more information. Scroll down to the post with the subject "Getting Emails Sent To You...3-step Process".

Here is a link that might be useful: Read Me If You're New To GW Kitchens!

A couple to think about:

I prefer the first b/c it gives you prep space on both sides of the sink (with the DW closed) as well as some workspace on both sides of the range. The second one, OTOH, doesn't put enough counter space in what would naturally be your Prep Zone (near a water source).

The first layout also provides a nice workflow...refrigerator to sink & Prep Zone to range & Cooking Zone.

The first one also provides better access to dish storage near the DW and sink.

In both cases, the refrigerator & MW are on the periphery so someone looking for a drink or snack can access the refrigerator & MW w/o being underfoot. Also in both cases, the cat(s) dishes are located on the end so your cat(s) can eat/drink without getting underfoot.

I am a little concerned about pink walls covered with glass. (Didn't see that mentioned by others above...maybe I missed it.) A pink wall is easy enough to paint over. Pink behind glass represents a challenge for resale.

I like the idea for you guys....it is personalized and should (with the right pink) create a pleasant working environment. But, I think potential buyers could be turned off by pink. Changing out the glass wall might feel daunting.

Maybe you could use mirror on the backsplash and pink on the far wall. You might get a better space effect from the lateral reflection than the lengthwise one. And, I don't know how crazy I'd be about seeing "another person" in the space all the time. ;-) Oh, and if you do have kids on the way, that mirrored wall is going to be a smeary mess once they start to creep.

My galley is a bit bigger at 7'9" x 7'9". I cook so my approach is more oriented to the kitchen as a working space. So a couple of things:

24" sink base

- have you seen the size of a sink that will fit into a 24" base?

-sink that small wouldn't work for me I think you need a 30" sink base so you can have a good sized sink

-a couple of folks here with small galleys have pushed their sinks into the corner to maximize counter space - I'm pretty sure that's what I will be doing

a decent counter run

-for a functional small kitchen storage and counter should be the things you put at the greatest premium

-I would prefer it by the sink but in a small galley you can be flexible

dishwasher

-is the rest of your apartment suitable for kids and\or family or is the unit most likely to appeal to a single person or couple?

-as storage is of premium importance I would sacrifice a 24" dishwasher for an 18" or a dish drawer

-18" and dish drawers are more expensive - if you start to cook you will use the dishwasher as it is a valuable spot to put dirty stuff when you are cooking in a small kitchen without loads of counter space

-as someone with a really loud dishwasher I can verify that you want a quiet machine but the quiet packages on a Maytag for instance would be good enough (your space isn't eat in and as a city dweller I assume the space outside your window isn't all crickets and blowing breezes)

I'll scan some of my drawings of my planned changes today and post them later just in case they may be of some assistance.

You might want to try out Ikea's online planner. It will give you a better 3D tool to draw up your plans. We are in the throws of our kitchen re-model right now, with Ikea cabinets. For a small DC condo, I feel your pain when it comes to space constraints. My initial thoughts:

Pink could be awesome in a mod/sleek kitchen. But if you are looking for re-sale value, go with glass tiles in a more neutral color, like green/blue/black & white, etc. I scaled back the bright back splash with a stone/aluminum mosaic and instead painted the adjacent wall mango orange.

Go with the 18" dishwasher or dish drawer like others have suggested. And don't pretend like you won't use it ;-D They are fantastic, but 24" is too big for your kitchen.

I get others love for big sinks, but in small kitchens, it's just not possible. Due to wavy walls my base cabinets were over by 1/2" the other day. Meaning my 24" sink cabinet was switched out for a 21" sink cabinet. I'm not crying about it, but big sinks are maybe just too much a sacrifice when what is *really* needed is more counter space. Smaller sinks give you that. And now more of that pricey counter will be visible :)

Do you use your microwave often? Unless you do an OTR microhood, I would stick a small unit in your pantry if possible. We just installed a new OTR unit, but only b/c that is the norm around here. I really wanted it on a shelf somewhere else, and it would probably look better elsewhere also. Microwaves are a big space suck. You could do a 27" Advantium (micro+oven) unit under the counter also. I have seen a few condos here with that as their only oven.

I like your floor thinking. Just installed a charcoal polished porcelain floor, 12x12 tiles, and it is shiny, modern, and basically indestructible.

For those talking about making storage a premium...please note the OP has stated they have a pantry that will hold quite a bit, so it's not as much an issue as for someone who has no other storage.
"...there is a full length pantry just outside the kitchen, adding a lot of storage..."

Of course, if they put a freezer in the pantry and it takes up the entire pantry, then maybe it is something to think about. Then, I strongly suggest putting the cat dishes elsewhere and sticking with the 24" sink base (more on sinks later).

With children, especially young children, they will need that 24" DW...I speak from experience!

With the sink against the wall and the DW in the middle of the run, instead of at the end (by the wall)...

(1) It puts an open DW door in the very center of the kitchen.

(2) With a 33" aisle, that means if the DW is open, no one is going in or out of the kitchen

(3) If it needs to be opened while prepping or cooking (like putting dirty prep/cooking dishes in the DW to conserve counter/work space), everyone, and I mean everyone, will have to move out of the way. With the DW against the wall, it at least allows others to continue working uninterrupted and the only person who would have to move is the one at the range...and only a little bit b/c most of range is clear of the DW.

(4) No work room or dirty dish storage on one side of the sink. With room on both sides of the sink, dirty dishes can be put on one side while the other is available for prepping. Also, with workspace on both sides of the sink they can have two people prepping or cooking at the same time. While that may not be an issue right now, that will change with children.

With the first layout, there's a respectable amount of prep space...36" on one side of the sink and a doable amount in a pinch on the other side (24") if needed.

If they increased the sink base to 27", they would still have 33" of prep space and they gain another 3" for a sink, perhaps that's OK:

With a 24" sink base, they should be able to fit a single-bowl 23" exterior width/21" interior width sink; with a 27" sink base, they should be able to fit a 26" exterior/24" or so interior. If they are willing to scribe the walls of the sink base, they might even be able to have a sink with an interior width of 23" or 26", respectively. (shown in layout #3). Many here have done just that to get a wider sink.

With a small kitchen, there are compromises. However, they need to weigh which compromises offer the least issues for them. In my opinion, a sink base 24" or 27" with a 24" DW offers the best compromise. Workspace is really important, as well as its location....and next to the sink is the ideal location. So, they may have a slightly smaller sink, but they gain counter/work space in an ideal location!

If they do decide to go w/an 18" DW, it gains them 6" of base storage, but no additional counter space or upper storage (b/c they already have that regardless of where those 6" are...over DW or base cabinet). Counter space would probably be shifted around...42" or so on one side, 18" on the other...to make the most of the extra 6" of base cabinet (merge it in with an existing cab, don't create a 6" cabinet).

If they pair the 18" DW with a 30" sink base, then they gain no truly functional base storage (sink bases are notoriously poor storage), they lose 6" of counter/workspace and 6" of upper cabinet storage. Be careful of sink bases w/drawers...they need to be sure there's room for the plumbing underneath the sink and, if they have one, garbage disposal. Beware of putting things in walls (if they would even fit)...they will probably have to close up the wall to meet Fire Code and that means if they need access to the plumbing, etc., they'll have to break into the wall. If they have room in the room/space behind the kitchen wall, they might be able to locate the sink plumbing, etc. there...

Is there another way to handle/locate plumbing?

@buehl - Wow, I should have posted my issue last week for you. With the quick sink base down-size we just ended up telling the granite guys, "Just install whatever sink will fit." I guess we'll see what happens when they come to install next week!

Of note, Ikea doesn't sell a 27" base cabinet. I guess you could hack a few inches off a 30", though.

Some other ideas...personally, I don't like any of them as much as the first two, but I thought I'd add some additional ideas.

I tried an "L-shape" and "U-shape", but they were so claustrophobic and you lose so much storage space, that I didn't bother to post them.

BTW...is there any chance you could add to the kitchen walls to make your kitchen 6" or so deeper? It would make it 7'6" x 7'...

From an NYC perspective:

You don't need a separate freezer + full fridge - it's not necessary to stockpile that much food. The 24" or 27" Liebherr with bottom freezer would work and look great.

Magic resale brands in NYC are Viking and Miele.

Viking makes a 24" range that would work well for you and it's functional. You net an additional 6" of counter which is a big percentage increase adjoining the range in your kitchen.

I would stick with the 18" Miele DW to the right of the sink. Only move up from 21" interior bowl to 23" if you keep a max 24" sink base and scoop the sides.

Skip the garbage disposal (totally unnecessary in NYC) and use the under-sink space for garbage pull out and 2 tiered chrome pull out for cleansers, etc. Under a sink, drawers don't do as much for you as separate pullouts in a cabinet. Do drawers everywhere else.

Upper cabinets on the sink side do not have to be raised at the sink. Just keep them at 18" above the counter straight across.

Be careful going overboard with IKEA. Much as I like what I have from there, it's very recognizable and there's some interest fatigue there. And its brand is still perceived as inexpensive/economical in spite of some well made things, especially kitchen related. Accessorize from elsewhere.

The pink walls under glass are too "specific" which is a bad word in real estate resale. Do it for yourself if you love it but plan on repainting before you put it up for sale. In a small kitchen, a full height backsplash the same material as the counter works best. I like stainless counters but they will be high maintenance to keep looking good on a daily basis.

Hi! A couple of comments:

**Then, don't go black on the base drawer fronts.
Keep it lighter than that. Not darker than the floor.**

That advice, from Davidro (sp?), is very wise. In a kitchen that small, don't do it. If you're using a dark color on the floor, then do lighter base cabinets (or ones that "pop" more against the gray, e.g. wood), then even lighter upper cabinets--that draws the eye upwards, to your high ceilings, and creates an impression of space.

I have stainless counters and wouldn't recommend them--they're noisy, cold (visually and "tactile-ly") and it doesn't take much mess at all to make them look dirty (unlike a surface with some movement on it, like granite or most quartzes). I particularly wouldn't recommend them in a space that small with all stainless appliances, because it's just too much stainless--which is to say, it's too much of one material AND it's too much gray, particularly since you're planning on a dark gray floor. The eye needs some relief. You don't have to use predominantly gray and black to be modern. Here are some links to modern kitchens that use color and/or wood to great effect:

http://goodideas.front.lv/wp-content/uploads/2007/08/modern_kitchen_design_sample.jpg

http://residencehousedesign.com/modern-mia-kitchen-design-collection.html

http://homedesigninterior.com/search/ultra+modern+kitchen+faucets

http://www.fopple.com/the-best-european-modern-kitchen-design-pictures-gallery-from-tomassi-cucine/

And I would also steer clear of the glass wall if you're thinking about resale value. The key thing for resale is that you either have to put in something crowd-pleasing, which it sounds like is not your goal, or put in something that will look really cool to you and some other people **AND** will look easy to change to everyone else. It is easy to change a boldly colored wall; all you have to do is paint it. But it's not easy to change a glass-covered wall.

As for your sink, we have a 22" or so single-bowl sink in a much larger kitchen (10.5 x 17') and it is just fine. Counter space is much more important than extra sink space, so I would just stick with the sink size you have. A too-large sink would actually make the kitchen look smaller.

With the two stainless shelves, a wall mount faucet will give you more counter area. A sink shaped like 16" by 22" and undermounted will give you useable counter between the wall and the sink. We did this. We also had a ledge made so we could suspend cutting boards, colanders, grids, dishracks, etc. Look at the Orca sink for web images of the same idea. The ridge (or groove) can be right below the counter edge.

So far no one has asked about your walls. If you have a non load bearing wall, you could rebuild it much slimmer, or recess your base cabinets on that side by reframing the studs.

At http://www.aeg-electrolux.ca/ you will see an unusual shape of induction cooktop. It's 16" in "depth" front to back. The counter behind it then becomes useful space, since this cooktop is so slim. In fact, the cooktop zones are also available as counter too. Key words "98001-K Zone-Free". Its cutout is 14" by 34.5".

Ikea drawers only take 20.5". If you put the drawers too close to the wall to have space for the softclose dampers you can punch a small hole in the plaster or drywall right at that spot. By cutting 2.5" from the backs of the Ikea bases, you can still have the drawers and you get more leg room in your tight aisle. Knees under the counter overhang. The counters can be of a depth you decide instead of an arbitrary standard or completely symmetric.

Don't follow Ikea's drawer placement pattern if you want to maximize the cabinet's drawer capacity. Their shallow drawers are Blum's "M height" and only need 3.25" height. They can be internal drawers, behind a drawer front of a bigger drawer. In one of my cabinets, I have six drawers but only two drawer fronts. Four are internal drawers. I removed the bottom panel (floor) of the cabinet since it's only needed as a floor when you have oldfashioned door type storage.

Here is info from Gaggenau about their ventilators: ".... can be used as both extraction and recirculation systems. Both alternatives initially pass the contaminated air through a grease filter to keep the interior of the hood and the air ducts free of unpleasant deposits. ..... In the recirculation configuration, it passes through a built-in activated carbon filter to remove odors and then returns to the room. The activated carbon filter typically requires changing; this is a very simple operation requiring no tools...." F.y.i.

LG's 24"w LBRP 1031 frigde/freezer is a high quality appliance at an Asian price. I have one in a closet. In my small kitchen the fridge is 36"w drawers under the counter. We put a 24" wall oven at chest height and we are glad we did. It got recessed into the wall so we have 9" of useable counter in front of it.

hth

Thank you @buehl! I didn't get any emails, so I figured I had no replies, so I went back to lurk around the forum - and found this - so many amazing answers to my plans! How fantastic! I am shocked by the amount of amazing detailed helpful feedback you all have provided. BIG thanks to you all for your thoughtfulness and great ideas!

Some of my major takeaways:

1.Rethink the glass on the walls (if I just paint/mural and leave it unglassed, it will be easy to repaint), maybe consider a small, more conventional backsplash.

2. Rethink colors, so it's not all so dark. I'm thinking about extending the living/dining room dark hardwood floors into the kitchen, to keep the space flowing. It's still dark, but lighter than the stone I was considering. Maybe go with stainless lower cabinets and a stone countertop? I'm thinking the built-n glass door SubZero - I'd want to check that the Ikea stainless matches it.

3. Think about what I can tuck into the exterior pantry.

All the walls and openings are non-openable or movable or extendable, unfortunately.

Now I have to go get out my graph paper and start fiddling with all of these suggestions regarding sizing things out :-)!

I live downtown in a far less sophisticated market than New York (though Ottawa is fast becoming the condo capital of Canada). One thing I will say is know your market - if you bought because your building was affordable you may want to keep that advantage for re-sale. I'm planning a more cottagey look rather than modern but my plans may be of some use - even if it's to show you what you don't want to do.

Current kitchen floor plan:

{{gwi:1979215}}

Drink in the beauty:

Current plans (with Ikea the 9"=12" and the 18"=15"):

{{gwi:1979216}}

Ikea plans (only using frameless for the lowers):

{{gwi:1979217}}

{{gwi:1979218}}

{{gwi:1979219}}

Planning partial overlay uppers on the stove\fridge side and custom open shelving on the sink side. I am going with a smaller dishwasher and pushing the sink to the corner to create an extended counter run (space to the left of the sink is a magnate for clutter and serves no useful purpose to me). This also creates space for a 30" drawer base for appliances and pots. I have an 18" sink now which I find too small (why they put such a small sink in a 36" sink base is a mystery to me). My water comes from that side so it will be easy to move the sink down.

In terms of advice I assumed that the pantry was replacing the upper storage which is why I thought you needed to maximize the lower storage. Sink size is subjective but it sounds like you do your dishes by hand which is why I assumed a bigger sink might be desirable. Galleys don't offer great sight lines (unless you have a pass through) so I wouldn't over emphasize the aesthetics. As you can see I am making some "unaesthetic" choices with the cabinetry - not all of us have the "eye".

Good luck the rest of the way. You can print the cabinetry guide for Ikea off of their website so you know what they offer when working on graph paper. Their software isn't to hard to work with once you get used to it.

**I'm thinking about extending the living/dining room dark hardwood floors into the kitchen, to keep the space flowing. It's still dark, but lighter than the stone I was considering.**

That sounds like an idea well worth looking into. The flow from one room to the next might create an impression of more space than you would get if there were just this teeny stone floor that stopped the eye at the threshold, and the slightly lighter color would help that as well. And the color would probably lend some warmth to the kitchen, since most wood, even dark varieties, is stained in a warm tone.

Also, wood is more forgiving on the feet/legs/back, which matters if you're into cooking because of the amount of time you'll spend standing in the kitchen. And if you finish it properly there's basically no issue with moisture--that's what people sometimes worry about, if they worry about wood floors in kitchens, but all it takes is a proper finish to make it waterproof.

thanks for sharing your plans caryscott -- all of these give me ideas and help me understand the process a little bit better...

By the way, since you want a modern look, have you seen this lovely modern kitchen on GW? Link below...

Here is a link that might be useful: Modern Walnut kitchen

Good idea to link to that kitchen. It's both dark and light.

A detail: the "vein" in the pantry wall frames the MW and hides it in full view.

The 30" Ikea cabinet is shown in displays and on the ikea site as if it all came as a kit, with two wide deep drawers, and two shallow narrow drawers on top. Everything you get from Ikea is a separate piece.

Good to know: you can get a single shallow drawer, full width. This replaces the two narrow drawers that require two front panels and a Filler piece. This is less time to install and less cost to buy. You simply deselect the small drawers, small front panels, and filler piece. Since it's not a kit, you don't have to buy the ensemble and or ask for exceptions to get parts replaced. Here is the shallow drawer: http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/10107072 $30 . It's been documented on ikeafans extensively, as the "oven drawer" in the base cabinet. If you have the urge to say you prefer having two small drawers, think again.

--

When I went to a Viking showroom and looked at a 24" wide range, I was told it was discontinued. I didn't ask if they meant the one model I was looking at or all the 24" models. If the latter, I think there will still be many available at a discount price.

A smaller oven takes less time to warm up. We have a 24"wide wall oven. We are very happy with it. In it we can fit a huge roaster: it's an oval shape, 13"w by 17.75" long with handles in "corners" not at the ends, about 7.5" high. I could fit fair size animals in it but I don't know what size that would be in turkey pound speak, specifically.

We have a 24" induction cooktop. We never use four burners. In fact, we could make do with one burner almost all the time, by using pots with strainers, bain-marie tops, double boilers, etc. So now we understand why a three-burner cooktop can be sold without generating any complaints.

--

Having one fridge will do the job. A fridge/freezer, all by itself. Having two appliances will change your life. The small LG is high quality at a good price.

hth

thanks for these comments, and that great link.
two follow up questions as I wade through my sizing details, for any of you with experience deciphering Ikea products:
1. Is there any way to fit a Wolf built-in oven, into a bottom Ikea cabinet? The small Wolf is 30" across, and online, all of the Ikea oven cabinets seem to be only 24"? Any ways to get around this?
2.Are there any Ikea sink cabinets/solutions that are 30" across (not for a bigger sink, just for more cabinet space below etc) - they all seem to be 24"?
thanks so much!

If the Wolf built-in oven fits inside a 30" cabinet, it will fit inside an Ikea 30" cabinet. I think it won't be 30" across but more like 28.5" in reality and only 30" in nominal terms to tell you what size cabinet it goes inside of. If not, please remember that many people don't buy a cabinet for large appliances. Like a dishwasher. As long as there are cabinets beside it, left and right, you don't even have to think about a finishing panel to cover the side. You would build a base out of some wood scraps. It's just a cube that needs to rest on something above the floor.

Once you find the link for the Ikea base cabinets, you will see a small menu in that page, for the size. This brings you to the 30" cabinets. Just like how it worked in the link (above) where you got to the various sizes of shallow drawers.

Try
http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/00049346
$41 for a white 30" cabinet.
(terms for future reference are "AKURUM Base cabinet frame")
Putting an oven in there is an example of when you would want to keep the floor of the cabinet intact. The advanced topic I covered yesterday was to remove the floor when you want your lowest drawer to be a lot lower and deeper.

hth

thank you davidro1 - very helpful. And I apologize for being so slow - I am really a beginner at all of this (I count putting together my Ikea bookshelf as a major personal achievement:-)

**When I went to a Viking showroom and looked at a 24" wide range, I was told it was discontinued. I didn't ask if they meant the one model I was looking at or all the 24" models.**

Don't forget to trawl Craigslist and eBay for things like this. Some people have scored major finds there. And some of the appliances, on eBay at least, not only are still under warranty but you can get an extended warranty (because some appliance dealers sell off their excess through eBay).

Recyclable material is one thing. We hold recyclables in a closet.

Real garbage is another thing. Since you are in a condo, I'll guess there will be a garbage chute near the elevator. If so, consider this: in my 1982-era kitchen I used to have a pail which held a few gallons. It was never full. It smelled or stank. After some thought I realized I didn't need to hold onto my garbage until it gave me olfactory signals. We now take a little bag to the garbage chute, more often than before. In the last year we have kept on replacing our container for garbage with a smaller one. About 300 cubic inches is the volume we are using now. I think it will be even smaller when we start composting green and brown vegetable matter. Or, we might just say it's the right size. Searching with "steam table pan sizes" as key word phrase you will see the one sixth size pan. This size has the same volume as the smallest plastic garbage container at Ikea, the white ones in the set shown in these links:
http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/S19870739 or
http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/S99870740

Why is this something to think about now?
1/ When I had a door under the kitchen sink, I used that cabinet for the pail.
---- That and a few cleaning supplies took the whole cabinet.
---- Smelled ugly inside.
2/ Now I have a teeny garbage container inside a drawer.
---- We remove its contents every day or two.
---- Long before a smell.
3/ A "garbage pullout" cabinet is unnecessary if your garbage can be removed from the house easily without causing other problems for you
---- This corresponds to high rise condo living.
4/ You can get your stainless steel countertop made with openings for steam table pans.
---- No need to open a drawer to toss something into the garbage.

hth