The same thing happen to me. But it was a stand. My husband used real fine steel wool, it took the spot out. He, then went over the whole stand to even it out. It brought it back to the original surface. Than he, put a vanish on it. If you, don't want to try it you may want to see if the Amish, fix it for you.

I've never used varnish before -- I assume I can get the conversion varnish at a store somewhere? Paint store?

There are 4 small spots (2 inch square) on the table and the table is big. I really don't want to redo the whole table with varnish... Is this something I could just do in the spots?

You will likely have to rub out the surface of the table so it all matches. I'd use a gray scotch-brite (synthetic steel wool) to keep a satin finish.
Rub in broad strokes, in one direction to finish it off.
Casey

After using the gray scotch brite all over, would I need to varnish? Do I rub kind of lightly all over?

Tip for everyone: My contractor and KD said to never ever use the magic eraser because they are very abrasive. They both told me, if I had any, to throw them away.

Above all, before you do ANYTHING, call the Amish place and ask them what to do. They know their finishes better than anyone; they know better than anyone what products to use, or NOT use, on their finish.

Shelly, I believe "conversion varnish finish" means that a special process that may include a catalyst is used to make the finish. I believe this is not something that can be done at home. I think it must involve some serious solvents, and this is why it is not available in California, with their stricter air quality laws.

How does this affect you? Not sure, but at least I gave you something else to read while you are waiting for an answer. If you want to learn more, try a wikipedia search on "conversion varnish."

Generally, not all finishes adhere to all other finishes. Be sure to research before you try any repair.

I liked Howard Restor-a-Shine Burnishing Cream. Its got some very fine abrasives in a oil base. You can do the entire top, it works by removing a tiny amount of the finish and will bring the top to the same sheen. Rub on, let dry, buff off - kinda like old school waxing a car.

I had really excellent results on a top with a lot of surface scratches and did not use any of the other products. I did not add more finish - it didn't need any.

I put a call into the Amish furniture store to see if they have any ideas. I'm truly sick about it... can't believe I did something so stupid without trying other methods to remove the marker. :(

I also have an Amish table that I used a magic eraser on to try to hide a scratch. It left a shiny, smooth spot on the table. I am wondering if I should just use the magic eraser on the whole table top to make it match?

I would try super fine steel wool and paste wax. I use this technique for old furniture.