Rather timely subject as I just installed the toe kick under my dishwasher today. Unlike yours, my model has the 3 piece toe kick. There are 2 rectangular holes in the 2nd piece which do not appear in your pictures. The 3rd piece 'L' moves in or out to accomodate the inset depth of the kick. In my case the cabinet maker supplied a kick piece fitted for the space and I just used Velcro to hold it to the part 'L'. In your case the cabinet maker should supply a small box faced with your kick material and your moulding that will slide in and fill the space. It can be held by Velcro if necessary. Be careful however because the bottom of the door panel descends below the full height of your toe kick as described in several other threads here. The maximum height of your inset box will be determined by how low the panel goes and will likely be less than the height of your kick.

You will want to be careful to ensure adequate airflow if you replace the stock kickplate vent or cover it with another layer. The vents in the picture actually look a little constricted to me. Theoretically, if the fridge breaks for lack of ventilation they could refuse to warrant it if the vents are too small...though I suppose you could always remove the extra layer before the repairman comes and plead ignorance. Anyway, two other options: (1) I don't know whether the Kitchenaid grills are metal or plastic, but either way they are usually paintable to match the other areas of the toekick. It would still be obviously a grill, however, and the knob would be visable. (2) You can retain (and possibly paint) the original grill, and at the front of the toekick put in fake furniture-style legs and optionally a partial plinth (attached with velcro). Since it's going to look a little different whatever you do, this can make a lot of sense. With the partial plinth and legs in front, most people won't notice the grill unless they are on floor level (especially if it is painted to match the floor, rather than the rest of the toekick). I did a quick search for picture of this approach, and found one in the attached recentish post from gardenweb member jm_seattle. Of course, if you want to avoid the issue entirely you can get the Subzero drawers instead - they don't have a visible grill at all, looks like the rest of your toekick. For the dishwasher, you don't need a vent but most will leave a small gap at the bottom just so any leak is caught quickly - instead of building up and causing damage hidden behind the toekick, it would theoretically run out the gap and you would notice it sooner. Other than that, I think pretty much everybody just uses a piece of matching toekick trim velcroed on. Here is a link that might be useful: Fake Legs Toekick w/ vent

There is not enough water from an occasional mopping to cause a problem with a decent process type switch, particularly if it was behind a panel. Most of these switches have a rather small 'button'. It will be a pain to find it under the toe kick. Placing it behind a section of toe kick hinged at one end and held lightly at the other will provide a nice wide target to push to operate the switch and meet the rule requiring it to remain accessible for service/repair. Electric junction boxes and switches may not be permanently hidden. Grainger should have a Carling brand switch like you need. SPST pushbutton, maintained. http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/productIndex.shtml Here is a link that might be useful: Look for maintaind push button

I am a KD and I agree with what LWO said. Only thing I will add is, I am thinking about starting to order the 'handicap' toekick boards (8-9" tall) from now on as this is common customer complaint. However, that toekick material is more expensive and the labor to scribe it to fit and install it is also more money. Most people do not want to pay that extra. And not all cabinet lines offer the taller toekick or custom toekick board height. In that case, as LWO stated, you would need to order paneling....and that would be a lot more expensive. So it could cost $20-$30 more per length of toekick plus labor expenses. Overall could cost $200 to $300+ more depending on materials needed to order..