It is tough picking out a new range. I am looking for a third range in the space of 7 years to fill the space in my kitchen. One thing I like about the prostyle ranges is the depth that allows the use of big pans. The Pro Harmony is cabinet depth so you lose this benefit. The burners on all prostyle ranges are wider sealed or open, so you will have small pans enveloped on high heat. Most come with at least one small pan burner though. My current range is a Wolf DF with sealed burners and I like the burners. I can use a 7 inch, shallow sauce pan on the burners and it will heat evenly but the key is having cookware that is heat conductive. For smaller pans, I use the small pan burner. In evaluating a burner, look at the BTU range high and low to evaluate the heat you will use. To compare apples and oranges you need the actual BTU number not "140 degree simmer". Next look at the burner configuration. Star shaped burners have the burner ports spread over a greater area. Some have the ports oriented in such a way that when you turn the heat up the flame flares to the side of the rays. This keeps the foot print of the heat about the same but in order to take advantage of that you will have to size your pans to the burner. This is useful if you cook with pans that have poor heat conduction like cast iron or thin metal. Other burners have the ports oriented toward the outside. When you turn them up they will flare more toward the outside, expanding the heat foot print. This is good if you use bigger pans. Sealed and open will do that but the amount of flare depends on the way they are engineered. If your pans conduct heat well(thick aluminum or thick copper) you will maximize the usefulness of any burner. There are all kinds of videos on youtube and if you can't see a range in person that will give you an idea of the size of flames in relation to your pot and you can also find videos about what is involved in cleaning the burners. They are all different. Some are marketing videos so you have to take with a grain of salt but you can see the burners in action. The reason I am getting rid of my Wolf is that the blue enamel started chipping at 4.5 years old. They won't give me a price to fix it but only that the labor starts at $800. In light of the ongoing issues with Wolf Blue enamel and the fact that they will only warranty the repair for a year or maybe even less I don't want to reinvest. The AG range does not have the blue enamel though. One thing to consider is that someone related on another thread that they talked to Wolf and Wolf now will only warranty the interiors of their ovens for 60 days. The actual wording of the warranty does not mention porcelain interiors but only stainless so not sure how they can do that. I liked the AP too but they do not have any warranty on the interiors or glass of their ranges so that is a deal breaker for me given the history of revolving appliances in my kitchen.

Well ours is without question made of 304 stainless. But honestly I don't really see a problem using 430 SS either, depends on the way it was built as in some cases the 430 is better because it holds a weld better and can bend to certain specifications better without cracking. A range made of 430SS inside your house is not going to rust anyway, that is pure nonsense. I DO however think that 430 SS could have more adverse reactions to acidic type foods such as say Tomato Sauce or Lemon juice Vs 304. maybe if you sat it in a corner of an abandoned house for 30 years maybe, but if you use it everyday in a house with AC it is not going to rust, but it very well could have more staining with acidic foods. I think that 304 stainless is critical on a BBQ grill, but not so much on an indoor stove. But I am still glad mine is made of 304 Stainless anyway. But there are many things made of 400 series stainless that work just fine, never rust, one I can think of is most "Food Slicers, Deli meat slicers etc" are made of 400 series stainless. Car exhaust pipes are usually made of 409 stainless because of the better welding and heat resistance. I once had the pleasure of meeting an old guy out in California, he lived in the middle of no where on many acres of land and when I met him I drove through the classic old gate with elk antlers on top and his house was built in around the 1830's, was an old adobe that was built by a Mexican General when California was actually Mexico. House still stands today with the same tile roof, just one addition was added on about 100 years ago but other than that was all original, No AC. He had as his stove a old wood stove that was thickly enameled color of like a seafoam blue/green and all the corners and edges were all Stainless Steel. Had to be a 400 series stainless because I don't think the 300 series was even in use yet. That stove looked like it brand spanking new and at the time I saw it was about 90+ years old. Not a speck of rust on it, of course it was thick as hell but still the surface was still like new. I actually find products "Made in USA" about 75% of the time to be pure crap in every way. I bet 95% of the world views items "made in USA" exactly the way people like Deeageaux does about China. In general about every product I see with "Made in Germany" tag on it is probably about the only one I can generally count on being very well made, I can usually count on a high price for that item also. Most of the working parts in the NXR come from every place except China, it is basically just "Assembled" in China and who better to assemble than those that have been assembling things for decades. Also it is probably the larger brand name companies that are forcing retailers not to carry a quality product that cost far less, that happens all the time in every category of product.

We're late to this discussion, but we have just finished a multi-state tour of kitchen showrooms looking at "professional" ranges, cute and otherwise. A deciding factor for us proved to be the oven temperature-setting. Bluestar/Big Chill and many others have very poor controls for oven temp setting. Some are coarse, upside-down, or both. It seems that the cuter the range, the worse this is. Doesn't anyone bake anymore? How did these controls get into these kinds of ranges? Why do cheap gas stoves have better oven temp setting? The answer might be that in a commercial kitchen, various ovens are set to specific temperatures at the start of the day and they stay there. Actual oven thermometers are used to verify temps. Some cute ovens like Bertazzoni have thermometer indicators on their control panels but good luck trying to get consistent settings by just using the oven temp knob when you need to bake a cake at 350F and then roast some vegetables at 400F. We eventually chose a 36" GE Cafe in bronze and white. This series has a fairly precise oven control setting with actual temperature indication. We will order matching extra oven handles and adapt them to a large but fairly standard white side-by-side fridge, Whirlpool or GE. Here is a link to sources of other kitchen hardware that will match that special GE Cafe bronze: https://www.houzz.com/discussions/5578436/hardware-to-match-ge-cafe-series-range-in-brushed-bronze

I may have left out some words due to repetition. The number of square feet refers to the entry aperture of the hood. For example, a 36 x 24 hood aperture would be 6 square feet, and would require 6 x 90 = 360 CFM actual, likely needing a blower rated at 540 CFM. Pressure loss not only entails the ducting, but the baffles and the MUA path. Leaky walls are not exactly a free path for air. A leaky house may be sufficient for MUA in practice (given that the blower rating takes the pressure loss into account), but the OP may live where aggressive code enforcement will demand at least a damper in a duct to the outside. The rationale for 90 ft/min is based on ensuring entrainment into baffle gaps that typically are around 50% of the baffle area and have to deal with upward plume velocities of as much as 1.2 m/s. See also the table (Figure 4) on page 9 of the Greenheck Guide available here: https://www.tagengineering.ca/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/KVSApplDesign_catalog.pdf The discussion leading to that table should prove useful for background information. In particular, the Greenheck method vs. the linear feet of hood edge (all the way around for an island hood) method is discussed. (Note commercial cooking rarely is true island type; even located in the middle of a kitchen the hood is connected to the cooktop via a back section. There may also be side skirts on the hood.) Last, let me point out that capture can fail under cross draft conditions, which are almost always worse for island/peninsula configurations than wall configurations.