No, unfortunately you can't use those Rationell drawers in the US, at least not very easily, hence the hack. The Faktum system they use in Europe has toekicks that are closer to 6" high, while the Akurum system here is designed for toekicks at the standard US height of ~4".

You could see if Chemetal has anything. Or maybe Varenna could be of help. Here is a link that might be useful: Chemetal

I can see the light at the end of the tunnel for the kitchen remodel! Still some decisions to make and would like some help. One of my bigger quandaries is what to do with the oddly shaped area that was created when I had the new countertop extend beyond the existing cabinets. (Oh, and FWIW, tell me if I shouldn't have the counter extended all the way over like that. I can change it, as they're re-installing the counters in a couple weeks) Where the baker's rack is now, is covering where there used to be a wall we just tore out. I'm discovering that open concept is making it a little harder because now things have to "flow". Final Plans include two thick butcher block shelves staggered on the empty wall, and the wall color will be a very very light cool gray. The floor will be Mannington Sundance Smoke - it's a smoky darker grey-brown. I also plan on having a tall decorative something-or-other sitting on the counter in that weird area to the left of the door to take away from how weird it is. Hopeful Plans involve finding a way to keep the baker's rack. I like the crates for all the storage, and the hooks for pots and pans and things. It looks a ton more cluttered now because the kitchen is kinda torn up and things just get put there for now. But I can't really seem to find a place where it would look right. Are hanging pot racks still a thing? I considered getting one with a light to hang over the island, what do you guys think? Also, which way should the island be facing? I've tried it all 4 ways and can't figure out which makes the most sense or looks the best. The fold-down part will actually stay up as I have 2 stools that go underneath it. I'll be installing a custom cabinet into the empty space under the counter. Which leaves me with a strip of floor molding between where the cabinet will end to where the sliding door begins. Through the rest of the house, and starting at the divide between the kitchen and dining room, the molding is a dark espresso brown. All the window trim is the same color (you can see it on the sliding door and windows). I'm not going to change that through the rest of the house. So - what color should I make the toe kick (am I supposed to match the floor or the cabinet?), and what should I do with that weird area of molding on either side of the sliding door? Additionally, I'd love suggestions on backsplashes. I was leaning toward light gray glass subway tiles, but then I saw stainless steel subway tiles and liked those as well. I don't want anything smaller than standard subway tile size, and don't care for patterns. The countertop is fairly sparkly, and I don't want to take away from that or have it be too much. I plan on extending it all the way up over the sink, but then keeping it at cabinet level to the right of the stove all the way down to where the counter ends now. And this is the ONE situation where I think a stepping-down of the backsplash would work, as it would just come to a point at the end of the counter. Thoughts? (No, this isn't where the fridge will stay positioned, we have to use a different outlet until we patch the wall area we tore out.) So, tl;dr: 1.) Should I leave the countertop extended all the way to that wall leading to the door? 2.) Is there a way to keep the baker's rack, and where? If not, how about a hanging pot rack with a light to go over the island? 3.) Which way are the island & stools supposed to face anyway? 4.) What color do you suggest for the toe kick? 5.) What color would you suggest for the molding on either side of the door? 6.) Any suggestions on backsplashes? Thanks a million for any help you'd like to share!

You don't have to get maple. With a little trial and error, you could probably stain something cheaper than maple to match whatever you have. I used 1/4 inch thick poplar stained to match my maple cabinets. From eye level it looks fine. In fact. you really can't see it at all. When I lay on the floor to look at it, the color matched pretty well (it took a couple of experiments). Of course the grain is different. I don't lay on the floor to look at it very often. (HA!)