For those who have finished a wood island with Waterlox...
Capegirl05
12 years ago
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Capegirl05
12 years agoRelated Discussions
Help deciding finish -site finished white oak floors, waterlox?
Comments (1)Your concerns over damage to the wood by water or pebbles in shoes or high heels are all valid. Bad news is there is not a product invented yet to eliminate those concerns. High heels or any shoes for that matter should never be worn on the floors. And the finish will delay the damaging effects water causes. But wont prevent it. Polyurethanes gives you the best in protection and looks....See MoreDoes anyone have Waterlox for their Kitchen cabinet finish?
Comments (11)Waterlox is not a penetrating oil, It is a wiping varnish. The reason they say it must be applied to bare wood is to sell more product. I've used linseed oil or dewaxed shellac as a seal coat before Waterlox, and I've used Waterlox as the seal coat (as per the mfg. directions) If you put Waterlox on bare wood, it soaks up about 4 times more product than the next coats (and takes forever to dry.) At that rate I could not afford to use it on my whole house, either! But if you use it only as topcoats, the product really goes pretty far. Waterlox will not adhere properly to lacquer, wax, or water-based undercoats. For your refinishing project, I think you are on the right track. Sand the existing finish to promote adhesion, brush on one good coating of the Zinsser seal coat shellac straight out of the can. let it dry a day before sanding it and giving it a coat of Waterlox. One final coat of Waterlox the following day is all you need. Perform a test on one area before you do the whole stairs. Let the stairs dry 2-3 days with fans running to speed cure time. Do not walk on the stairs until they are cured properly....See Morefinish for stained wood cabs -- waterlox? varnish?
Comments (1)I am exhausted from staining all the kitchen cab boxes yesterday with an oil-based stain (they apparently don't do whitewash stain yet in latex) that set off my asthma despite working with a charcoal-impregnated mask on. Today we are supposed to start polyurethaning the cabs. We use water-based for that, so I can breathe better. Our Polycrillic finish suggests three coats. So check out the number of coats needed and see which appeals to you most. Take any health issues into account. The water-based poly does have an odor, and it does mildly set off my asthma. So any family members with breathing problems need to be considered first, unless they are moving out for the duration, or unless you have taken them (the cabs, not the family members!) out to a workshop or garage area that is not connected to the house. After reading about Waterlox, it does sound like a great finish. Tung oil does have a strong odor though. Check it out before you decide. I have always thought of oil-based (stinky) finishes as superior to water-based. I used Tung Oil (not Waterlox) on a soft pine bench that I knew my dog would be jumping up on to watch the squirrels. In the four years I had that house, the dog claws never penetrated the finish. It just dented in the wood, finish intact. I love the Waterlox feature of being able to simply add some in the needed area if a problem like a scratch occurs. Here is a link that might be useful: Waterlox info...See MoreQuestion for those who have prep sink on the island
Comments (5)Mine is a bit unusual, given the shape of the sink, and my dislike of garbage in the cabinets. I have a pail which can go under the clean-up sink, but if I have actual garbage it comes out, and I kick it over to the island if I want it there. The island is small however. About 5'x1m. On the right hand side of the picture you can see a brown dot in the middle which is the pull for the prep sink cabinet. The cabinet is just wide enough to accommodate the sink, which is 16" in diameter. It's as far to the edge as possible to have it well supported and cut well out of the stone. The middle drawers are 24" fridge drawers. The drawers on the left are exactly as wide as my old wire cutlery tray, which holds gadgets in the lower drawer, knives in the upper. Colanders, graters, and bowls in the others, wraps and hardware in the two drawers on the far side. Small, but it works. The far side of the trough is actually a useful landing area, as is the space behind the bowl....See MoreCapegirl05
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