bump

We considered but decided against wood counters in our wet/hot areas (sink and stove run) but did use it on our last counter run---and I have to say that now that we've used the Waterloxed wood counter for a few months in our non-wet area with sponge cleanups, I don't think I'd hesitate to try it near a sink/stove. It's so much better performance-wise than I imagined it would be! (In fact, I like it better than our soapstone as far as performance goes...crazy considering the cost difference!) My husband was also very concerned that people would see it was wood and cut directly on it when they were over for dinner, but this hasn't happened once. (First, people just don't cut all that much when they're guests, and second, it has a shiny finished surface that screams "I'm not really butcher block!") I clean it with water or water/vinegar spray. We caulked ours with clear caulk because there's no backsplash there, but where our tile meets our stone counters, the caulk is color-matched to the tile grout rather than to the counter, so I think that approach would work fine with wood too.

I can't speak to how the Waterlox will weather over the years, but I do know that our table finish (which is very nice, done by a local woodshop) is not as protective as Waterlox and doesn't have the same water-beading effect, so I would expect to see water do more damage over time there than to the counter. Time will tell!

I am looking at the same thing but found that the wood tops were not much of a savings over stone. A DIY wood top was about $45 sq ft and a pre-made top was over $100. Around here low end granite is around $45/sq ft.

Ditto artemis -- we have copper counters (which is probably even less 'adhering' than wood) and silicone caulk where the counter meets the tile; the caulk matches the tile grout, sticks with no problem to the copper, and it all works very well.

I have a Craft Art top in my kitchen with an undermount sink and I just finished putting in a mosaic tile backsplash this weekend! I will take better finished pics and post them tomorrow.

Here is how it looked before I replaced the tile (painted over because it was a mix of neon yellow, orange, red and blue tiles from previous owner...):

Here is how it looked before I took the mosaic tile all the way to the wood countertop surface:

And here's how it ended up when I decided to have the backsplash tile go all the way down:

As for maintenance, as you may be able to see in the pic, we aren't the tidiest of folks. I've had the wood countertop since last winter and no problems at all so far. It's so cool because water/wine/gross stuff my family thnks belongs on countertops, literally beads up on it.. like Rain-X almost.

It was my first DIY backsplash experience so I took pics, and when I opened up the site today, I saw your question about wood with tile backsplash and thought, "its fate!" Hope that helps some.

I will post better photos of the finished product tomorrow.

Ps. I am buying a wood backsplash for the other wall of my kitchen and called Craft Art today about their DIY wood backsplashes (thanks for the suggestion melsey!) and they said any DIY order placed before Tuesday will ship on Friday at no extra charge even though it normally wouldn't till next week. woohoo! I like free stuff.

Thanks for the feedback so far--and to NC for the bump ;-) so ya'll saw it.

Melsey--glad to hear you have had longer-term experience. And I will stay away from ammonia based cleaners. I guess vinegar and water is the way to go.

Artemis--that's good to hear that you would have been comfortable with it around your sink. And we rarely have guests chopping as well, but we have lots of small cutting boards handy. I only have one houseguest who is here for a couple of weeks around the holidays to worry about--he puts our caphlon in the DW, even though I have told him for 20 years not too ;-) But he is a great cook and friend for life, so I'll just watch him like a hawk the first year or two.

Tubeman--I'm not crazy about polished granite. And I think any of the affordable granites are going to be the busy, polished ones. I'm thinking soapstone on the island because I want either runnels or a drainboard for the cleanup sink. I hand wash the aforementioned caphlon (and knives and big bowls that take up too much room in DW) and i like to leave it to drip dry until I empty the DW in the morning. That's why I didn't want wood on the island.

Circus Peanut--love your copper counters! Love your whole kitchen--one of my GW favorites! I guess I am overthinking the transition. We'll use grout colored caulk. Off topic, but I have to tell you that I really want a zinc-covered raised bar on the island. I've been reading your "how you did it" on the metal working forum. I go back and forth between faux painting (which I know I could do a good job on, but will it hold up?) and actually trying to cover it with metal (which I am afraid I'll mess up). I've got a lead on a local steel fabricator that might could inexpensively cover it with zinc. I'm sure I'll have questions if I go that route.

Sarahhomeremodel--it was fate ;-) Thanks for taking time to post the photos. Is that walnut? Very pretty! Please do let me know how it goes and post photos of the finished backsplash.

Thanks! Susan

Thanks for the post-I'm very interested as well. Same thought - love wood and love the potential to save compared to same price for bleh granite. I've been looking at CA Walnut but I don't have an island, just a peninsula so either I go all the way or nothing! Local cabinet maker thought it was a wild idea to use wood on the perimeter...I rolled my eyes...until he mentioned grease splatter around the stove!?! I had solely been focusing on water problems....anyone have any experience w/ grease splatter? In my kitchen, it's inevitable...

Wood counters are very confusing. I've found most are very positive on GW, but at least in my region, KD's and cabinet makers think it's a crazy idea...at least in the prep area!

KCRemodeler. Grease? Good point. I'm not as worried about that as I don't deep fry anything, but do sometime saute something in olive oil that might splatter. That wouldn't clean up well with vinegar and water. Anyone with wood counters encounter grease problems?

As to the positive feedback, I think advice on GW is in front of the curve of a trend and many here are open to new ideas. I've had several friends/tradespeople ask "who designed your kitchen?" and I've replied "me and a bunch of strangers on the internet" ;-) My gc has said you're a brave girl, but he is open to all my wacky ideas.

Hey Logansmum, I have Craft Art wood by the stove and haven't have a grease splatter problem at all. I do know that you don't want to set the pan filled with boiling grease directly on the counter and you should use a trivet with anything really hot, just like with stone. I will look around on their website and see if they mention it anywhere and if so, I will post a link.

I don't want to sound like too much of a Craft Art expert, but...since I've owned a few maybe I can help.

The grease concern isn't an issue. If it WAS an issue, you'd see 100 posts/day from Formica or Wilsonart customers. Or anyone with a wood floor in front of a stove.

I'm not a chemist, but it's been explained to me to view the Craft Art surface as something very similar to Formica or Wilsonart. They (Craft Art) call it "crosslinked", I think. But the way it ends up is that it's extremely durable and penetrates into the wood rather than stays just on the surface--you don't want a polyurethane coating on your countertop because once it's scratched it does nothing to protect the wood and that's how you hear about water disasters with wood countertops.

One of the other things I've never seen mentioned in this forum about wood is its ability to be stripped, stained and re-finished. I've changed entire color themes in my kitchen and stained the wood to complement what we've done...it only cost around $300-$500 and you have an entirely new look.

It certainly is nice to see so many people warming up to wood (no pun intended)in this forum. All I ever receive is compliments from my friends about our Craft Art wood countertop. With granite in apartments now, it's nice to have something distinctive. :)

I'm surprised that Rhome410 hasn't jumped in yet to talk about her waterloxed island. Her DH made the top from Doug Fir cut on her property so its not CA, but the the finish is the same. She has a prep sink on the island and cooks extensively for her family of 10. She speaks very highly of waterlox when the subject comes up. I've never heard any complaints from her.

Looking forward to seeing yours!

KCremodeler, I have wood countertops in my kitchen and right beside the stove. Grease hasn't been an issue and neither has anything else. I've had them for a year and they are still fine. I finished mine with pure tung oil and they are holding up fine, even around the sink. I love working on them and don't pamper them anymore than I did the miserable formica we had before we had these made. Ours are Hickory.

iona46, you're arean't waterloxed? My mom has had a butcher block right next to her stove since she built the house in 1966 and it's great. It's aged but I love that look - kind of how marble wears in a bakery, just like it's supposed to if you're using it!

I'm confused about the Craft Art - is it just for a cool, different look? Or is there a practical side to it?

Melsey--I think you may be a Craft Art expert ;-) Thanks for chiming in again. All reassurance helps. And if the finish got icky for some reason, it could be redone.

Breezy--I've seen Rhome's kitchen a number of times--and it gets heavy use for sure and looks great. I probably should have put waterlox in the title--I think it's the waterlox finish that I want to know will hold up. I'll be doing the DIY finish--not buying pre-fabricated tops from Craft Art. I've been following your threads and your kitchen is going to be gorgeous.

Mjtx2--the reason I'm using Craft Art is the DIY option and the ones that I have seen photos of look so elegant and high-end. I had initially considered IKEA butcher block stained a darker wood color and then sealed with waterlox, which a few people here have done. But the Craft Art uses bigger pieces of wood--looks more like a solid surface of wood than the "choppiness" of the smaller pieces in the IKEA countertops. And IKEA had supply problems with the countertops earlier this summer--month long delays. Don't know if that is still an issue. Plus C.A. happens to be in Atlanta--I could pick them up myself. But I'll likely have to pay sales tax, so it will probably cancel out the savings.

Beastbaby--saw your link on another wood countertop thread (must be wood countertop question week ;-) and I remember reading your dilemma about locally made versus CA. So you got the Craft Art? Did you self-finish or did they do it? And it's walnut? That's what I want. Do you love it?

We have a white formica top that you can't cut on or put hot pans on now--DH and kids are pretty good about using trivets/pads/cutting boards, etc. I guess I wanted to make sure that I wasn't getting something more high maintenance than what I am used to now ;-) THanks! Susan

I did end up getting the Craft Art DIY one. It ended up being cheaper and (I truly believe) better. I think it's basically all they do, so I'm guessing their bulk wood buying keeps their prices down while keeping quality high.

I finished it myself with Waterlox (used what CA recommended). I was going to try a "pure tung oil route" but decided to go with the route that had Very specific directions ... since as it turns out, I'm not much of a wood worker haha. I actually added a bit of "distressing" myself, too. I sanded the edges so it looks like it's had years of people leaning against it and made some marks on it with hammer/random tools, then put a little black stain in the dents to make them stand out.

Next I followed the Craft Art directions. They weren't hard to follow, but the dry times between coats are long. My work time including distressing was maybe.. 3 hours? But you really really have to let it fully dry between coats (anywhere from 8-24 hours) and there are 4 coats. It's definitely the largest DIY I've ever done, but not the hardest.

I do use a cutting board though for any serious chopping. My wood is by the stove but not really a stove cut out per say, just ends right next to the stove. I get it wet and splattery probably every other day - I admit it, I eat out every couple days : )

And to answer your last question, Yes! I do love it. I especially like getting to tell people about it. That may make me a braggart, but it's just a fun thing to talk about in my kitchen. People never come in a go "wow nice granite" but they do come in and say "oh my gosh. is that wood? what?!" I have to do a water splash show-and-tell every time someone comes in my kitchen. I like it in itself, and I like having a conversation piece that I feel like I'm really a part of because I made it.

Not to hijack the post... but hopefully to put the wood and waterlox to another test...what about pens and markers? I'm comfortable with water, now grease, but what about the abuse of toddlers and kids, sitting at the counter to do school work?? This would wash off laminate and granite with some elbow grease, but I'm thinking the wood top just got ruined, and not in a nice patina way ?!? Or does this waterlox really protect from these things like a polyurethane does?

Or if the answer is to sand and repair, is it really possible to spot sand and stain, or are we talking about sanding the whole run and restaining??

KCRemodeler, you're killing me! :)

We only had one issue that comes to mind where we weren't able to get something out easily/quickly. Craft Art told us to use rubbing alcohol and a clean white rag on a Sharpie stain (I think it was a Sharpie) and it went right away within seconds. No problems with the finish or anything.

I need to phone Craft Art and ask for a commission!!!!

Seriously, though: The more that we can use alternative surfaces (wood, metals, glass, onyx, etc.), the more fun our spaces become. All the specialty surfaces are good!

Beastbaby, did you use homeowner DIY or Serious DIY?

I have a Craft Art wood sample at my house left over from my decision process. It's finished with Waterlox... I'm tempted to do a little experiment on that tonight... I have rubbing alcohol and a sharpie!

This is partially selfish; I have a craft art wood counter top and I want to know what really works if I get something on it. Plus, telling my family to color on it with sharpie could be fun.

Everyone - Should I do it and take pics?

BeastBaby, please do experiment and post your findings! For some reason after typing your user name, I now have Ice, Ice Baby stuck in my head. Thanks a lot ;-)

I just discovered Craft Art and am thinking about doing it on our kitchen island. What's the benefit to DIY compared to having them do it? Thanks!

I'm considering putting a wood countertop in my prep area. Craft Art counters look great! Those of you with wood counters, did you go with edge, plank, or end grain? Thanks!

2LittleFishies--my reason for the DIY is to save money. They have an online quoting system so you can plug in your dimensions and get a quote for fabricated counter. I did it and the L shaped part of my counter alone was around $3k (I have two additional smaller sections that are 19" and 42"). The total wood costs for the DIY for me is $1224. I figure labor will be about a day of my GCs time.

Also, the DIY has much more limited choices of species of wood and only goes to 1.75" thick. The custom has an amazing selection (lots of cool checkerboard patterns and more exotic wood species) and it can be like 3 or 4 inches thick and I am sure they can do all kinds of fancy edges.

If money was no object, I would let them do it. Of course, if money were really no object, I would be off at a spa somewhere while my kitchen was being remodeled and one of my minions would be figuring all of this out ;-)

Thanks logansmum for the post, and thanks melsey for the expertise!! I'M SOLD! Sorry, I"m an overthinker....hence this kitchen remodel has finally just barely kicked off! Can't wait til I get to the point where I can post pics...

Good luck, logansmum!

I had to chime in here as well...I cannot wait to hear/see the Sharpie test Beastbaby! Please post!

Logansmum- Is the labor for DIY simply sealing with a product?

Can someone explain why you would go with the sealed wood instead of just butcherblock? Is it because of look for the entire counter? I feel like I'm missing something! Thanks in advance!

Hi mjtx2 --

Good question.

For most people I think the choice of waterlox-type finish vs mineral oil
is both a matter of personal aesthetic preference
and the function of the space.

Any space that will consistently come into contact with water
is a good candidate for a waterlox-type finish.
I've had oiled butcher block in the past,
and no matter how much I oiled, or how careful I was,
it would get water rings and distress from water and food prep.

If for any reason you want to chop on the counter,
the mineral oil finish is the way to go.

But it isn't just a matter of function:
Some people prefer the more refined, rich, furniture finish look of Waterlox or tung oil
as opposed to the warm casual/rustic oiled butcher block.

Because I had simple dark honed granite on my main counters,
I wanted the contrast of a glossier (you can also do a satin finish with Waterlox),
furniture finish on my walnut island.
If I had been trying to achieve, for example, a rustic, French country look,
I probably would have picked a mineral oil finish.

They are both beautiful looks!

2LittleFishies, the sealing is something you can probably do yourself. But the DIY wood pieces come in standard sizes (starting at 26" x 36"). SO you or your GC or a handyman will have to cut it to size--for example, cut an inch off the width if you only want 25" deep counters or cut it to fit length wise. They'll need to scribe (cut to fit) it to the wall if your wall is not perfectly straight--a sheetrocked wall can bow out or concave in a little that maybe you can't see with your eye, but it needs to be addressed or you'll have a gap--same thing with a granite or stone slab. The outside edge is just a plain straight edge, so if you want it rounded or an ogee edge or something fancier, someone has to do that with a router. And finally, if you have sinks, someone has to cut out the faucet and sink holes.

So it's not really DIY unless you have some pretty decent woodworking skills. Now if you just want an island top and one of their stock sizes fits what you need, then it could be totally DIY.

Well folks, I did it. I wasn't brave enough to do it on my actual countertops, but I had a maple sample left over from my hunt that worked just fine. This was WAY fun.

I will post my findings in a few minutes - uploading now.

And no judging my sidekicks photography skills! : )

The results are in on the craft art waterloxed wood counter top sharpie test (that's a mouthful, huh?)... and wow. Check it out:

I honestly can't believe that worked. Crazy.

Holy cow!

(p.s. Is that the rustic walnut, with that knot, or regular? It's gorgeous.)

it's the regular black walnut. There are three knots on my top actually. I wish I had thought to take a far away shot when I had Jen's camera last night! Next time I will back up and take a full top shot for you guys.

I can't believe no one else is in awe though. I never Ever thought rubbing alcohol would take of permanent marker from waterloxed wood. (someone on here said "Waterloxed - new verb!" and I am totally stealing that) : )

*I* am in awe!! I couldn't believe it would work either. Thanks for trying and posting, Beast!

BeastBaby. Great job both with the experiment and documentation! I'm not totally surprised, but very happy to hear the marker came off so easily. My boys are 10 and 13 and are past the marking on stuff with sharpies phase, but you never know. More likely a drunken relative or guest;-)

Love your walnut countertops. They look beautiful.

WOW! Great results!!! Thanks so much : )

BeastBaby, thank you for posting your test results & photos! I'm so impressed. I've been debating about doing the Waterlox on our planned butcherblock, but I think I'm convinced now.

No problem. I got to play detective, and I am so glad to know that rubbing alcohol really does work to remove serious stains or issues.

My family will be glad that my blood pressure is going to be lower around the Craft Art top now!

Thank you Beast baby! Great news that it came off! As a side note; we are now thinking of doing away with our peninsula and just doing a large (6' x 8') island with the farmhouse sink. This way we can do away with the prep sink idea and still have the wood island. I just hope I don't regret this decision!