So, if they grind it, would they remove the sink first? Grinding possible, but does make a mess! If you decide to proceed, have them cover the work area with a makeshift tent. My KG used plastic garbage bags to contain the dust- one of his helpers had a shopvac going and another held up the 'tent'. They also taped garbage bags over adjacent cupboards. (Mine wasn't grinding a sink cutout, but removing a counter)

Ditto to all of the above. Do you really want to incur the risk of breaking the stone yourself? Around faucet holes is a fragile area, even for a professional. Sometimes, despite the best installer's technique, the stone will crack. At that point, you need a professional to fix it or replace it. If you do it yourself, you'll be paying any of those charges. Plus, I would imagine it would be more likely to break if you're not experienced at this. I know it's not what you want to hear since you don't like this company, but I'd definitely suck it up and call.

Reply to Writersblock's "How wide is the sink, and how wide is the sink base itself?" The sink dimensions are: LENGTH at the widest point: 30 1/8" WIDTH at the widest point: 19 3/8" By sink base, do you mean the cabinet area for the sink? If so, it's 36" Thanks. To SmartDesignGirl - Thank you. You have great points. I've thought of these advantages of keeping the existing sink, too. It's just that the small basin of the sink is too small to wash anything in, but it has the disposal in it, and the large one is not that big either, at least not big enough to soak more than one very large pot in it, and my Mom cooks with several large pots and pans daily. I've thought of having a plumber just switch the disposal to the other side -- one problem solved because the crud from the soaking pots can be processed by the disposal--- but my Mom will still have to stagger the soaking. She cooks mostly Indian food, so soaking is a necessity. Maybe we should give up and keep this sink, but I'll wait to hear from Avonite first. The countertops and sinks are over 20 yrs old, well out of warranty, so that's not a concern, but I don't want anyone who doesn't know the materials very well to mess them up. This post was edited by nabq on Tue, Sep 17, 13 at 20:42

You can order a diffuser track for them to snap into. They do not cause any more glare than any other kind of under cabinet lighting over a shiny surface. The counter surface has more to do with glare than the lighting choice. I placed these in this vignette on the lower frame of the cabinet rather than in the recess. You can see the tiny dots on the bottom of the cabinets in the picture. I did that so they would be easier to see for customers. VERY easy installation. I did the whole showroom myself. Same lights, under the cabinet recess against the box bottom. Cool white on the left, and warm white under the hutch. It's what we also used to light the hutch. Against the face frame interior. You will notice the darker shiny surface shows more glare than the light. That's the mirror effect and will happen regardless of the source of the light.