First, yes, a hood liner is what you are looking for. Next, I believe the minimum recommended CFM for a Wolf 36-6 is 900 CFM. Food for thought... you are getting a range top that most REALLY enjoy cooking on. As you use the Wolf, you may find that you cook more and more and use more than 2 burners more often than not. Consider over sizing the minimum CFM requirements just in case (maybe 1200-1500. It doesn't cost that much more and then you can run the blower at less than max most of the time. Next, go with a remote blower or in-line if you can. It will be MUCH quieter. Finally, consider a 42 inch hood liner and a 48 inch capture space. This will create a very effective exhaust system. We put in a 60 inch Blue Star that required 1800 CFM. In the liner system we went with, the closest blower was 2000 CFM but we upgraded to the 2500 CFM remote blower ($250 upgrade) and had a 72 inch capture area built. We did match a 60 inch hood liner with a 60 inch range b/c anything over 60 inches is custom and automatically double. Building the capture area at 72 inches worked fine but if I could have, I would have gone 66 inches on the liner. At any rate, I use the hood most of the time at about half power and it is almost silent. At full speed, you can still have a conversation next to it at normal levels. Lastly, there are a lot of really good hood liners out there and Wolf is certainly one. Independent is another and I used a Prestige high capacity hood liner b/c I REALLY like its baffle system design. I had never heard of Prestige before we got the Blue Star but I am really pleased with its performance.

Front to back depth should achieve the same capture goal as described for side to side. Sometimes a hood can be mounted farther from the wall and a spacer applied at the back, thereby achieving a somewhat deeper effective hood. Effluent will curl off of a flat back spacer. If flow rate is high enough this effluent will still be captured as it can't escape into the wall. Alternatively, the back spacer can be angled between the back wall and hood entry to reflect upward. Keep in mind as you think about this that the plumes have velocity (more than a meter per second in some cases) and momentum. Momentum is conserved on reflection (accounting for angle of reflection equals angle of incidence relative to the normal, just like light), but overall momentum is degraded by friction with the air and enhanced when entrained in the hood flow. Cooktops and ranges placed against walls with counters on both sides and cabinets above them that drop down below the hood provide a certain degree of flow support as the air is somewhat channeled to the hood and the plumes are somewhat restrained at the sides. Along with an excess of air flow (relative to my suggestion above), you may find that most of the plume is still captured. I have an island configuration so I can only surmise the flow patterns that will likely occur, as informed by various schlieren photographs of commercial hoods that have been published. Hoods can be at any height, but given the plume expansion, have to grow in size the higher they are placed. Commercial hoods often have their apertures at 7 feet above the floor (four feet above the cooking surface), and are built commensurately larger and have appropriately greater air flow (and MUA to replace it). You want the hood to be high enough to avoid head interception, as well as high enough to provide clear sight-lines to the interior of pots. I recommend drawing a side view sketch to scale of the cooking configuration, and add a stick figure cook. Observe sight lines and head vs. hood as the figure bends at the waist. This lends itself to experiments with hood mounting, both in height and offset from the wall. My Wolf pro island hood base is at 34.5 inches above the cooktop for a variety of reasons, and it just clears my head. Hoods that don't extend so far out may still miss one's head due to bending effects. At worst, head interceptions will train the cook to avoid the hood. :) At max power, the zero static pressure flow rate is 1200 CFM. Mounted In the hood, duct, or roof with pressure losses from baffle restrictions, hood transitions, duct losses, and in particular imperfect MUA, the actual flow would likely be closer to 800 CFM. This is higher than the 560 or so nominal flow rate needed for your newly described aperture, so you should have some margin unless the MUA is inadequate, in which case the house pressure will drop some and the flow rate from the blower will match the MUA that results from the MUA design and the pressure the house drops down to. Carbon monoxide sensors become desirable in such cases if there are combustion appliances in use. kas

Well some kitchens are designed with the upper cabinet opening 6" wider than the range to accommodate. The 24" depth is what I would think is unusual for a non pro range or cooktop. Your head would be underneath a 24" or deeper range hood. The canopy of the range hood is not coincident with the workings of the range hood. My cheapo range hood, which will be replaced when the kitchen is renovated has a motor and screen that is about 12" wide and deep in a 36" wide range hood. And that is probably what is in the 24" wide and 30" wide hoods. The inserts are smaller because they are just the guts and are meant to be put into s larger canopy, because a certain amount of that big hood is not motor or fan it's empty real estate.

"Can we attach flexible piping to the 6" duct" DANGER. You cannot install flexible pipe for a cooktop exhaust. Flexible duct is prohibited by Building Code. It is a fire hazard. Here is why: the duct must be smooth so that grease particles do not get trapped and cause a fire. If you have grease particles in the crannies of flexible duct above your hood, and your cooking has even the tiniest flare-up, that grease will catch, the fire will whoosh up the duct assisted by the pull of the air flow, and then spread across your walls, and ultimately your house. You may be thinking "this isn't likely for us". Except that according to the Insurance Information Institute, a home fire occurs every 87 seconds in the U.S., and 50% of all home fires are caused by cooking fires. So just use rigid metal duct, and an elbow if you need to turn it in a different direction. "Will it affect the venting power?" What will affect the venting power is the 6" duct size you specified. The duct needs to be a 8" or 10" diameter for good air flow to pull up the smoke and grease. People get by on a 6" duct size because their homes already have the 6" duct behind walls so they are stuck with it. But if you are installing new duct - which it sounds like you are - you have the opportunity to install 8" or 10" duct. It does not make much sense to spend money on a new hood, but curtail its air flow from the getgo with a 6" duct. "induction doesn't cause as much smoke." Not true. The smoke and grease is a function of what you are cooking, not the energy source. If you are cooking bacon, frying a hamburger, or stir frying, the smoke and grease are the same whether using induction or a gas cooktop. If your family is vegetarian, or you never use the cooktop for frying , then it makes sense to say your cooking does not cause as much smoke, but it's not because of an induction cooktop. I think it's best to budget for smoke and grease, and if you don't often generate it, you can turn the hood fan to a lower speed, but on the occasion you are cooking a smokey item, you have enough ventilation not to set off the smoke alarm. Not what you asked, but essential measurements: - width of the hood is ideally 6" wider than the cooktop, so your hood should be 42" wide. - depth of the hood front-to-back should be 24" in order to cover the front burners. This is where a lot of cabinet hood surrounds fall short. You can get away with a 22" depth, but not less, or you would have spent all the money and effort for a hood that does not even cover your front burners. - Distance from cooktop to bottom of hood shoud be between 30"-36". Shorter than that and you will have a cramped feeling when cooking. Higher than that and you are giving the smoke and grease too much opportunity to escape.