Thank you for the kind words, everyone. Senator, I love quarter-sawn oak. I look forward to seeing your finished kitchen. I considered QS oak for our cabinets, but didn't want to overdo the A&C style too much in our home, since it's not a period home. We do have a few pieces of QS oak furniture, and I absolutely love the grain in the wood. I'm sure you're kitchen will be a showstopper and I look forward to seeing it. We weren't sure about the idea of a corner sink at first. We were careful to order a large enough cabinet to allow for placement of the sink as close to the front edge of the counter as possible. The larger cabinet cost us a few inches of storage on either side and created a larger triangular area behind the sink than we would have needed. We were concerned about the possibility of developing back strain from reaching too far into the sink. As it turned out, the corner sink is comfortable to work at, and the placement makes it much more of an interesting place to work, as well. The spot behind the sink is turning out to be a great place to slide the coffee maker when it's perking away and not need to worry about steam hitting the upper cabinets. I remember reading a thread about that issue recently. Motherof3sons, here is the magic corner in several positions. I ended up storing some things that I don't frequently use in that space. Consequently, I haven't given it heavy usage yet, but it seems to operate very smoothly and is sturdy.

Today, I had the privilege of seeing mamadadapaige's kitchen and I have to say the pics just do not do it justice. It is even more amazing in real life! The quality of the Crown Point cabinets is evident, by the subtle finishing details that only a true craftsman provides. The Ocean Green granite looks like a mixure of soapstone and green marble. It's smooth honed finish tops off the lovely veining and deep, but not dark green color. Her butcher block countertop provides the warming contrast and balance to the granite. The large window over that sink that provides a wonderful view of the water and boats in the inlet. The rangecraft hood, the tile backsplash, her choice of hardware and all the other details that make this kitchen one of GW's favorites are just so well put together. mamadadapaige truly has a magazine worthy kitchen and she is as friendly and helpful in person as she is online! Thank you mama, you really helped me today!

Ok, I'll try to hit the questions I am seeing here. - Regarding door/drawer spacing for inset doors/drawers: I took the finished door/drawer opening on the cabinet and made sure to allow for an 1/8" gap when cutting doors and drawer fronts to fit in the opening. One of the learning curves for me building cabinets was understanding how even a 1/16" difference is visible. This was a difficult concept to grasp for someone who is used to doing rough framing (building decks and framing walls) where being 1/4" off is no big thing. Also, it was very important to make sure everything was perfectly square. Keeping things square and careful measurement meant everything fit when it was time for assembly. Minuscule adjustments were made with a hand planer. - Attaching drawer fronts was a little tedious. I wound up tipping the cabinet on it's back, and simply laid the drawer front in the opening (on the drawer box.) Once I got it positioned, it got clamped and screwed in with two temporary screws from inside the drawer. When it was time for final install after paint, I simply removed the temporary screws, drilled proper counter sunk holes, added some wood glue and the screwed them in from the inside. Drawer pulls were also installed from the inside which also provided more attaching points. I highly doubt these drawer fronts will ever come loose. - Installing doors and gapping them was pretty similar to the drawer fronts. One trick that I figured was using a finish nail like a shim; their diameter was about the exact gap I was looking for. I'd place them loose between the door and cabinet, position the door (which moved easily along the nails like rollers), clamped the door and screwed them to the hinges. I used an old school hinge to keep the traditional look but they were slightly adjustable for final install. - Regarding the lower cabinet doors being used as a drawer front and how I attached them: This was done just like the drawer fronts, except I simply used more screws to attach them from the inside. This, plus sufficient wood glue, held them in place just fine. Also, keep in mind, the drawer boxes themselves are hard maple....nice and secure for the screws to hold to. The drawer slides are also effortless so there really is no torque on the fronts when pulling them open. I was concerned about this, but even fully loaded, they open effortlessly and my concerns are assuaged. I'm confident they won't come apart. And thanks again for all of the kind words, comments and questions.

Has anyone used the Euro model yet? If so, how is it? The TapMaster site says you can push the lever in any direction...left, right, push in, pull out...and it will work. You're only limited to left/right if you want to lock it "on". Now that I finally installed my NeverMTs, I'm ready to tackle the TapMaster battle ($296 @ Conservastore)...I want one for my prep sink, at least. (I suspect once my DH sees how nice it is to use he'll want one on the cleanup sink as well...) So, any input on the Euro style is welcome! (The cabinet door one is out since I sometimes lean on the sink cabinet doors w/my knees while working at the sink.)