Not sure. I would do the following 1. Assume 200 lumens per ft (max output) 2. Do a mock up layout. 3. Count the number of strips required for each possible vendor. 4. Layout string to represent wiring from the transformer/ dimming power supply to each run of lights. 5. Measure the strings. There are tables to help determine the wire gauge to use with each run given the total power draw - (line loss, power consumed by each type of led bar/ strip) 6. The total number of strips, lengths of wire will help determine the required capacity of the dimming power supply ( Add a 10% - 15% margin).

KayceeFL, your color scheme, design intentions, and personal preferences may be very different from ours, but here's one opinion, in case our experience helps: Our contractor brought over strips of the three LED colors that were available to us, so that we could see them in situ--i.e. in a well-windowed room, green walls, medium stained cabinets, soapstone counters. (I don't remember the brand, sorry!) They ranged, cool to warm, from bluish to white to slightly yellow. We went with the warmest, yellow-ish light. It struck us as the most natural, closest to sunshine and the familiar glow of incandescents.

Haven't used those, been through a few over the years though. Nowadays I mostly use Hafele strips which come in two color temps and are dimmable directly to the lights using a touch switch under the cabinet BUT with the number of dimmers you want you would need as many drivers with those. The switches connect back to the driver. You can run multiple switches to a driver but not multiple dimmers. Before those I used The Lighting Division-narrow shallow bars to size. The drivers are almost the same size as Hafele, prices are pretty good- they come in two color temps and 3 light levels. I mostly used the middle for UC lights but occasionally the higher light level. The advantage in you case is that they have an inexpensive undercabinet dimmer that is in line with the lights. You could then run multiple leads from the driver and put a switch in line so you don't need as many drivers. Comparing lights: check Lumens per foot and fall off as well as color temp. Take color temp with a grain of salt, also check the CRI "color rendering index" There is more to what happens to color than whatever a mfg "claims" for color temp. NOTE that dimming LEDs tends to make the light warmer. I'm going to test and see if I can run those dimmers with the Hafele (but won't get to it till next week at best) The advantage is it is easier to run multiple light runs to the Hafele, the drivers are set up for 6 inputs and can be joined for more power.

I did my whole showroom in Hafele. Did the install myself. Simple to do. They are dimmable. You plug a dimmer controller into the driver. Simple. Warm White lower wattage for up lighting, warm white higher wattage for under cabinet. Drivers inside corner cabinet, hidden by basket. Warm white higher voltage also hidden behind face frame of corner cabinet to light it. The electrical outlet is underneath the right side of the corner cabinet, and the occupancy sensor switches are under the corner cabinet. They aren't pretty. But, they have to be visible to detect motion. [Traditional Wine Cellar[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-wine-cellar-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_755~s_2107) by Other Metro Kitchen & Bath Designers ProSource Memphis Cool White, except under glass cabinets, which is warm white. Controller/dimmer to left of sink, right where the electrical outlet is that powers the install. Driver on top of cabinets. Wires run through cabinet interior, hidden by face frame. Glass cabinet tape lights hidden behind face frame to light cabinet interior. The outlet and driver for this section is on top of the wall. [Transitional Kitchen[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/transitional-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2112) by Other Metro Kitchen & Bath Designers ProSource Memphis Warm White, dimmer controlled underneath cabinet to the left next to oven, where the power originates. Driver is in top glass cabinet, with control wire run through cabinets hidden behind face frame. [Transitional Kitchen[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/transitional-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2112) by Other Metro Kitchen & Bath Designers ProSource Memphis