If you are doing waterlox you want to do at least 2 base coats and 2 finish coats. Some people do more, but I've seen that recommended for floors (and it's what we did on our floors) so I think it's probably fine for counters. Waterlox needs to dry at least 24 hours before recoating, sometimes more (A LOT MORE) if it's the low VOC formula and you are in the middle of a stupid humid heat wave (ie when we were finishing our floors for the last 3 weeks). Applying waterlox is very straight forward though, it just goes on like a poly or other finish. Also if he runs into any problem the company is happy to take calls and answer questions, my flooring guy had to call and talk to them more than once during our install.

Waterlox FAQ

sweetandrew-

Disclaimer: I'm not a Waterlox fan, so take this FWIW. We used Epifanes, a marine grade sealer on our counters and have been very pleased with the results. We have wood counters around our undermount main sink and pantry sink. The counters are southern yellow pine (bowling alley in a former life) trimmed in walnut and were installed 5 years ago. The finish around the sinks has held up exceptionally well, no water has infiltrated at all, and we are not careful types at all, have a dish drainer on the counter at all times (usually full of dripping dishes, let's be honest) and have had water sitting on it overnight with no problems at all.

The Epifanes distributor is in Maine, and they are very helpful and will spend lots of time on the phone discussing their different products. We ended up with the matte finish product in the kitchen and the gloss in the pantry, just wanted to mix it up a little. The products we used are food safe and while they are stinky to apply, they dried well and we haven't had to reapply, and it's been 4 years.

Here's a pic of the glossy version in the pantry:

And the matte version in the kitchen:

Good luck-

sandyponder

Here is a link that might be useful: Epifanes

Gorgeous wood countertops!! I spoke with the builder today about using at least 4 coats of Waterlox (before I saw the other product rec) and he seemed inclined to do 3 coats. Said we'll need to redo in a few years anyway?? Ugh...feel like some corners are being cut here in the last 2-3 weeks of our renovation. Thanks again for the input.

Our Ikea Oak countertop turned out great using Waterlox. We wanted a satin finish, so my husband followed the Waterlox directions on their website. It was like three coats of their classic finish, and the fourth coat was the satin finish. We're pleased with the results.

Hi Sandyponder, I'd love to hear more about why you are not a Waterlox fan. We are in the process of deciding on a finish for an edge grain walnut top for our island.

Best, Jennifer

francoise47-

I had Waterlox finished floors in a previous house and they did not hold up at all, the finish was scratched within weeks. The flooring was red birch, but the scratches were just in the finish. I'm not a clean freak at all, but the deep scratches really bothered me.

Now, to be honest, we have two big dogs, live on the water, so sand is constantly traipsed through, live in NNY, so have lots of ice and snow and we are just generally hard on stuff. The oiled floors are much more forgiving, and the finish is spot fixable, and works better for our lifestyle.

sandyponder

Sandy,

What a cozy place you have. Love the view! Which Epifane product did you use on your countertop? Did you use Epifane on your flooring this time also? If so, has it help up better than the Waterlox? Thanks for your input.

Thanks for your comments, Sandy. This is very helpful. Our carpenter is thinking of using an Epifane marine oil on our new mahogany covered porch floor. That will be our first experience with Epifane products so glad to hear that you've been satisfied.

CCinTX-

We stained the kitchen counters with Sutherland Welles "Heart Pine" stain (on southern yellow pine and walnut), then used Epifanes Rubbed Effect Varnish. The pantry counter are unstained, finished with Rubbed Effect Varnish and then with Woodfinish Gloss. They have held up perfectly, which is truly astonishing, especially considering how we abuse stuff.

The floors are finished in Bush Oil (another product I recommend heartily), we're just not poly people, we need a finish that we can touch up. Bush Oil is only available at retail stores, the link below is to the place we purchased ours.

sandyponder

Here is a link that might be useful: Lakeshore Hardwoods, Bush Oil Retailer