We ended up with a Broan 'Power Pack' with an external blower. (see link below photo) We had the upper cabinet constructed with a center channel for the duct so we could still have shelves on each side, plus the duct is covered so it looks great. The results are mixed. On the plus side, the appearance is great. The Broan Power Pack (the part that installs in the cabinet) it only four inches high, so it eats very little cabinet space, and it uses just an eight-inch duct, so the channel width is reasonable. (Need a bit extra width in the channel so the installers can tape the duct connections.) With the cab doors closed, everything is covered up. With the doors open, it looks clean and we get the convenient shelf space. And with the 600cfm blower, cooking odors get sucked up nicely. But there are negatives. One is that the Power Pack is cheaply made, but what should you expect for a mere $400?!? (We would have spent more on something nicer, but neither Broan nor anyone else makes something similar with better quality.) Both the fan and lights are controlled by flimsy plastic sliding switches. The housing and the decorative cover bend out of shape easily. And it's difficult, if not impossible, to get the decorative cover to lay flat against the bottom of the cabinet. (Spent only an hour on that issue so far...hoping another 2-3 hours will get it to fit right.) The remote blower (another $400) is in the attic just above the cabinets. I think the installers had never installed a remote blower. They have it sitting right on the joists so some vibration transfers to the cabinets. In the upper cabinet just to the right of the vent hood cabinet, and right below the blower, are drinking glasses. If the glasses are touching each other, we hear the tinkling sound of the glasses vibrating against each other when the blower is on. Separating them fixes the problem. The blower is a bit noisy, but not excessive. But, in some parts of the kitchen you hear an annoying low frequency noise. It's weird. You don't hear it standing at the cooktop, but three feet away you do. The installation instructions include an option to hang the blower from chains attached to the roof supports, which might have addressed the issue. I'm thinking of putting some sort of rubber-like material between the blower and the joists to act as shock absorbers. The point is if you get an external blower, think thru where and how it's mounted. (Note on photo: Backsplash tile is, literally, on a slow boat from China...was on backorder for 2-1/2 months.) Here is a link that might be useful: Broan Power Pack

I've just re-installed my 27" side opening oven over a heavy three drawer unit on a wall that also functions as a hall (I needed it to be chest high and used up most of the over counter space wiht a new window and door in my 8x10.5' kitchen) It's not any farther away from the stove than it would be in a larger kitchen and being the oven, it doesn't matter and it is now next to the dining room door. Since there is no counter, I fitted the second drawer down with a sliding board that pulls forward to be a set-down. It looks like a TV between a pantry pullout over a cabinet, a pantry closet and cabs above it, but it was the only solution. I store its racks and trays in the cab to the left. I'd wished for an oven with a side door because of arthritis in my neck (better now)and was thrilled to find it at a store closing sale! I've loved it despite its sort of space age steamlined look (It is 7+ years old)

Once you're sure the level reads the same when turned around, lift the lower end until it reads level. That gap is the amount of space the lower end has to be moved upwards to make the thing level. It is possible to move this by hand force because pipes are not structural. Also, the higher end can be moved downwards. A piece of wood (e.g. about 18" long) can be used to both pull up the low side and push down the high side, without much effort. I'm assuming the movement will be a small fraction of an inch based on what you wrote in your first post. Before doing this, it is good to verify all the above and a few other assumptions I've made about the supply pipes being move-able within a small range. The installer can tell you more about the pipes and how much "give" they have. The installer can tell you what he did to anchor the faucet, or whether he expected the pipes to hold it entirely. If you told us about the pipes in the wall and the anchoring that was done, it might be possible to advise more. Without knowing anything more, it is not possible to say whether moving the faucet into position will loosen it or make it stay once moved, and whether the movement will be bad for the pipes or OK. hth

Thanks everyone. It's an open-air patio, not enclosed. The overhang does have vented soffit :( Also, I've never had a vent hood before. The smells of my cooking are not bad but they do linger, thus the hood. Boxer, what do you mean snake the tube? With a chimney style hood there can be no snaking until you get past the drywall. My problem is that there is a joist in the way. Actually, a ceiling joist, not a roof joist. We are trying to avoid cutting joists. Is there some way of snaking that I'm not aware of that will make a chimney style hood work? I know I can get an undercab hood or an insert and angle it within the cabinetry to avoid the hood. The chimney style would be better for the aesthetics of the plan and let more light into the adjoining room. I'd like to ask him to move the troublesome ceiling joist and reinforce to in order to fit a roof-vent chimney mount style, but that's where the roof slopes to its cramped little end and will be a &(&*^% to do.. I guess we'll see. He does like the chimney style as well, so I'll let him decide if he wants to deal with the joist or not.