Smallest angle reach in pantry dimensions
lynn
11 years ago
Featured Answer
Comments (10)
SMPop18
11 years agoWe have an angled pantry in our new build. It is approx. 54" by 54" so it is pretty large. At first I thought it was too big but now I'm used to it and I know I will appreciated the storage space vs using cabinets. This picture might give you some perspective but doesn't show the adjacent long wall which will have the our refrigerator centered on it.
blfenton
11 years agoRelated Discussions
The smallest room size you could really see yourself living with?
Comments (18)Moongardengirl, Here is what we're happily living with. Our house is about 1300 sf. with no basement and some attic storage. DH & I have one 9-yo son. #1 Four Kids Bed Rooms We only have one kid room at 10.5 x 12. It's more than fine for one child as a combo sleep/play room, but I'd probably go up to about 12 x 12 for 2 kids. #2 Kids Full Bath Ours is 6.5 x 6.5. Again great for combination kid bath and general guest bath, but I'd go just a bit larger to accomodate a double sink with counter area if more kids were sharing. #3 Master Bed 12 x 16... very comfortable with queen size bed, even includes a small sitting space. #4 Master Full Bath 5 x 10 - perfect with huge walk-in shower, no tub. I love it. Only one sink. DH & I don't need to get ready at the same time for work. #5 Master Closet Ours is opposite the master bath in the hall to the MBR area and is not a walk-in, it's 12' long, standard 2' depth. More than adequate, and easy to see everything. #6 Office I work from home, so I use a 10 x 10 space (part of the living room). It's more than I need. DH uses a tiny 6 x 3 nook that is also the throughway to the MBR... that's too small. A general purpose home office that would be just right for me would be about 6 x 8, not in a main pathway, but not closed off completely, yet close to the kitchen and laundry. #7 Powder Room/Half Bath We don't have one and I don't find a need for one. #8 No Dining Room but the "Eat In" part of the Kitchen #9 Kitchen Our combined kitchen/eatin area/tv&music room is 16 x 24. I would have liked it just a bit wider to about 18 x 24 to accommodate a bigger table as we often have about 8 people for dinner and it's a bit tight. #10 Mudroom/Clutter Room/Back Hall/Landry Room/Pantry Ours is 6 x 6 (pantry is in the kitchen). For more kids, I'd definitely go larger. We're tight with that space. #11 Living Room Our living room/dining room combo is about 12 x 20. I use part for my office and the other part is the quiet sitting area. It's more than adequate. Between the LR/DR and the Kitchen/Family Room, we have two large, open areas that allow for many different uses and make the home feel much larger than it is. People always seem surprised the house is as small sq. footage as it is. Three times a year we have between 50-150 people over and the large spaces work great. #12 Play Room/Homework Room We have a small separate 8 x 8 hobby room off the garage. I think it's important to have one messy hobby space, but not really in the main living space... your unfinished bonus room sounds ideal. I like DS doing homework at the kitchen table. I can check his work while I'm getting dinner ready or cleaning up after dinner, so I wouldn't really like a separate homework room. When DS is older, he'll probably just replace his toy area with more desk space in his bedroom. My personal preference for home spaces is compact bedrooms and baths with larger multi-purpose public spaces. One thing I'd be concerned about in your plan is by having so many rooms, they're all going to end up being small. It's nice to have generous space somewhere in the house. Also, one thought is to build it in such a way that you could in the future add a master wing. So for now build 4 bedrooms (including master) and 2 baths but if you had more kids, add a nice master br and additional bath. I've noticed on this forum, many people are building houses that are much, much larger. You might want to also post this question on the small house forum. To put things in perspective, I like space and luxury, but am not willing to live for my house or my "stuff". I prefer smaller houses. When you're ready, this forum is a great place for posting your floorplan. Folks here are so creative and helpful....See MoreDiagonal upper cabinet or easy reach?
Comments (26)Personally, I prefer the 90-degree corner cabinets for both upper and base cabinets. In my old kitchen, we had a diagonal upper cabinet and a 90-degree base cabinet w/a lazy susan. I disliked the upper and liked the lower. Even at 5'10", most of the depth of that upper cabinet was inaccessible to me without climbing onto a chair. I could reach all of the bottom shelf, about 1/2-way into the second shelf, and only the very front of the top shelf. We needed all the space we had and really couldn't afford to relegate that much storage for seldom-used items. In addition, it was a bit intrusive - but it could be b/c I had a 90-degree base cabinet. I really liked the lazy susan b/c it fit so much stuff (all my pots & pans, colanders, and several large serving pieces). In addition, everything was right in front for easy access - just spin the shelves until the item you want is right in front. The walls of the cabinet were contoured to fit the curve of the shelves and were so close that nothing bigger than a grain of rice could fall off the shelf. The door was attached to the shelves so it rotated into the cabinet when I opened it - no issues with doors banging other doors or needing extra filler so the door would open. My mother has a lazy susan in a diagonal upper cabinet - I don't like it. Things are always falling off and items on the top shelf are too high to reach except the items on the outside of the shelf. The lazy susan is also quite a bit smaller than it could be - a wider one would have been better, I think. My MIL has blind corners for both upper and base cabinets - and she and I both hate them! She does her best to not put anything in the "blind" part of each cabinet b/c it's such a pain to get at things. Even with the pullouts they have for the base cabinet, you have to be careful how you store things b/c if anything falls off, you can't push the pullout back in until you crawl inside the cabinet to retrieve the item (after a certain age, you need a small child/grandchild to do it for your!) When we cleaned out her cabinets one time, we found boxes of food in the upper blind cabinet that had expired years ago! She couldn't easily see or reach into the blind corner, so she didn't know the boxes were there. In my new kitchen, I have two corners and had really wanted a lazy or super susan to store my small appliances (the other corner is a corner sink base that houses my prep sink). Both corners are open in the back. I made the "mistake" of thinking out loud about putting in a cabinet in the corner w/o a sink that faced outside the kitchen and about putting dog food, etc. in that cabinet. My husband immediately jumped on it and insisted we had to have it - and so I lost what I thought would be wonder appliance storage for me. *sigh* However, I do have to say that it really is the best use of a corner - it wastes very little space if you plan it right and the storage space is very accessible. It was the best use of space for us b/c now we have a place for the 6-gallon tin of dog food & 3-gallon tin of treats + a pullout for leashes, spare collars, pet meds, etc....all things doggy! The top drawer holds flashlights & batteries. My small appliances now reside in my pantry. I don't have any corner upper cabinets as I just extended them out to the sides and I have no side walls on that side of the kitchen. If I did, though, I would opt for easy-reach as I, personally, think (1) they're the best use of space for an upper corner that has all the space that is not only accessible, but also visible, (2) they're less intrusive if you're working in the corner, and (3) I think it looks better. For a corner base cabinet, I prefer a 90-degree cabinet as it adds 12" of counter frontage on each side of the corner. If you're short on counterspace or have an appliance butted up against the corner cabinet, it gives you more room to move around. Diagonal corners do give you added depth, but unless you plan to put a MW, TV, or similar in that corner, the deeper depth may not be usable (depending on how long your arms are). Looking at the picture with the wider corner cabinet, I would not do it if you're short on storage or counterspace or, as is the case in the layout you posted at the beginning, it's against one or two windows. Corner cabinets take up a lot of wall space. A 33" cabinet, for example, needs approx 48" on each wall. That's 12" more than a standard corner cabinet - and those 12" can be incorporated into other cabinets to give you much more useful storage. Since you do have a lot of counters & storage space (at least I think you do - if I'm reading your plan correctly), you could probably do it if it weren't for the placement of the window on the range wall - I think it's too close to the corner for that size cabinet. Sorry this is so long! Good luck with your kitchen!...See MoreA circular dining room/angled kitchen - seeking advice/thoughts
Comments (32)I think the attempt at a colonial look just does not mesh with the organic modern look it also had. I know it was done often as well as with the Spanish look (stucco, beams, etc...), but I just don't care for it. I think you could bring it forward into a more 70s natural look. Keep the ceiling and the slate floor, and try to work in clean elements and curves. Using raised panel doors and those hinges just did not look great when new, so to recreate would be period appropriate, but a mistake. I think a retro modern kitchen and vibe would make the most sense. Like noted above, you can use regular cabs under a curved counter. I could see it looking groovy with vertical grain veneer cabs, some retro color accessories and modern art. You can do an older style in a fresh way. There is no need to be a slave to someone else's vision for it, whether the original owner/architect, or some future buyer. If you added curves to your pix from 15:42 today, that would be quite nice. I am not sure you should whitewash your wood, but it is not a bad option. I would hate to see it get painted though. The workmanship and lines of it are really nice and that would sully it. I don't see too many painted surfaces as working in your house. I can picture grass cloth wallpaper and maybe some white walls. Certainly, you should skip crown molding.... Some funky table lamps in chrome would fit in as would some plants and macrame. I'd try to go for an ahead of its time look from years ago.......See MoreAngled Range: Yes or No
Comments (32)I think angled anything can make sense in some kitchens. I may end up angling the wall oven in mine even though I am generally not a big fan of angles. The reason is that I either completely box out a row of plumbing and HVAC ducts that have some space in between or I angle into the space in between these various things and gain a little space back. I am actually going to buy the critical cabinet before the kitchen is designed to see if angled or straight works better. St. Charles Cabinetry used to make an angled cabinet that was not 45-degrees, it was more like 30-degrees. It was for sinks or cooktops I believe, and created a bit of a "command center" kinda thing....See More
bmorepanic
11 years agolynn
11 years agoangie_diy
11 years agobmorepanic
11 years agolynn
11 years agodeedles
11 years agobmorepanic
11 years agoWhat deedles is suggesting depends on whether your local codes permit that. Most building departments are not long on allowing things that are different or special. They like stuff by the book.
By the book framing is 2x4's on edge, at least every 16" on center with doubles at rough openings for doors. Deedles hasn't allowed for the thickness of the finished wall coverings - another 1-1.25 inches depending on what you use.
Calling it a site built cabinet with a cabinet style door might fly as long as (1) not drywalled and (2) none of the short walls need to have switches or electrical outlets or you're willing to have them surface mounted.
I hope this is clear but no, 48" isn't enough to have a 24" door.
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lynnOriginal Author