Cotton's post reminded me - We put on a large addition and doubled the size of our kitchen in 1987. Our cabinetmaker suggested that we keep some of the leftover trim pieces that had already been stained to match the cabinets. That came in handy when we replaced the double ovens and needed to change the trim around the opening. When we installed the new Sub Zero and removed the small cabinet over the unit we still had trim pieces that could be easily cut to cover the small opening. We had to have a new wood panel made for the new unit. Luckily our cabinet company is still in business and they are custom milling and staining a door panel to match. I'm not sure I would buy the panels now and save them - what if the specifications change and they no longer fit?

Instead of moving the window, why not add another? That's what I did for Plan D, along with a few other tweaks. It's a blend of your Plan A and my Plan A, and a little bit of your Plan B. As always, aisle measurements are counter to counter, counter to appliance front or counter to wall. Starting at the pantry door: "a" is an 18" deep cabinet ala the inspiration pic I posted above [[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/shannon-cabinetry-traditional-kitchen-toronto-phvw-vp~73826) [Traditional Kitchen[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2107) by Youngstown General Contractors Shannon Cabinetry with frosted glass or antiqued mirror doors like these: [[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/mill-valley-classic-cottage-victorian-kitchen-san-francisco-phvw-vp~1357985) [Transitional Kitchen[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/transitional-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2112) by Sausalito Architects & Designers Heydt Designs Next up is a 30" oven installed under the counter. Yes, it's lower than a wall oven but it's higher than an oven in a range and it's one way to gain more counter and that sounded like it was more of a priority for you than oven height. Next to the oven is a 36" range. Not sure if these two appliances can be installed side by side or if you'll need to add a 6" pull-out cab between them. If so, that would be a great place to store spices. Between the range and the must-stay wall are two 26" wide drawer cabs. I evenly divided the space. You should determine cab widths based on your needs. The fridge is on the other side of the must-stay wall. "b" is closed or open storage ala this inspiration pic I posted above: [[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/victorian-resurrection-victorian-dining-room-portland-phvw-vp~3003779) [Transitional Kitchen[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/transitional-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2112) by Portland Interior Designers & Decorators Vicki Simon Interior Design The island is 8' long and shifted slightly towards the window wall. There aren't any cabs opening into this aisle so a 39" aisle should be fine. The MW drawer is still across from the fridge. Not sure how you use your MW but if it's to reheat left-overs and such, this placement makes sense. I think there's enough room to have fridge doors and MW drawer open without hitting each other but if that's not the case and it's a concern, put the MW drawer in the range wall run next to the must-stay wall. I show an apron front sink in a 30" sink cab, gaining you a bit more cab and counter in the island. DW is where I showed it in my Plan A. Since the range has shifted towards the pantry (and back to being centered on the can light), these two appliances are no longer across from each other. You could still switch sink and DW placement but that will leave you with only 16.5" of counter next to the sink. I shifted the island 2" towards the DR, easing the pinch point you were concerned about by the fridge. This obviously reduces the aisle between island and DR wall but since you plan on enlarging the DR opening, this won't be an issue, IMO. Plus there are only 3 seats at the island, not 4, to avoid pinch points between island and DR wall. "d" is a 15" deep open shelving cabinet for cookbooks or display items like this: [[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/jordan-peterson-allied-member-asid-traditional-kitchen-omaha-phvw-vp~351956) [Traditional Kitchen[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2107) by Omaha Architects & Designers jordan peterson interior design You could also angle the corner of the island to give you more room between island and back door. Additionally, you could probably increase the counter overhang an inch or two more, or even three inches, depending on how wide the new DR opening will be. The island is all one level, btw. Lastly, "c" is your Command Central housed in a hutch-style cabinet like this: [[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/inverness-lakeside-cottage-traditional-dining-room-grand-rapids-phvw-vp~444626) [Traditional Dining Room[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-dining-room-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_722~s_2107) by Grand Rapids Architects & Designers Visbeen Architects It will provide a nice view from the DR.

Did you order an apron front sink base or just a regular sink base? A regular sink base's doors are too tall for an apron front sink and when one retrofits an apron front sink into an existing situation, they usually eliminate the doors and put in a curtain under the sink. If you want a farm sink, and haven't ordered a farm sink base, then stop the order, pay any restocking fee, and get a farm sink base. In the end, it will be cheaper and look better than attempting to hack into a brand new sink base.

If you walk through the door of the bedroom, the zig-zag starts on the far back wall and comes towards the door. The bed will be placed on the side-wall to left of the door. While the bed won't be directly over the zig-zag pattern but the bed will block the view of some of the pattern when looking into the room from the door.