Have you looked at Mirror Mates? Link below.

If you are looking for glue, have you looked at F-26? or Gorilla Glue? Don't know if they will work on mirrors but if they do, you will NEVER get the frames off whatever they are glued to.

Here is a link that might be useful: Mirror Mate

Liquid Nails for Mirrors.

Oh, good thought, patches_02! IÂll stain and varnish the back the same as the front.

I looked at that Mirrormates site to order a lightweight frame, but there is nothing that would work for my Craftsman style bathroom. Now I just have to look at oak moldings and see what would look Craftsman-like.

Liquid Nails for Mirrors? Never knew there was such a product. ThatÂs probably whatÂs holding the mirror to the wall since there are no clips.

Thanks!

I actually just did this....Yes, make sure to paint the underside of the wood bc it reflects a bit...

My prob was that the mirror went all the way to the counter, but not to the sides and top where there were uneven spaces and depths of the indent...so I needed a handman to put in little shims on those sides...

The silicone didn't take at all. I don't know what kind he used. Then he used Gorilla Glue. Boy did it take. HOWEVER, on the top piece, he used way to much and it dripped down and e/t he scraped the mirror, you can see the gunk reflecting and between the mirror and top piece. My advice is to go with glue, but use A LITTLE!!!!

Here it is. Cheapest makeover ever..bathroom was a train wreck...

I found little hook things at HD and screwed them to the back of the mitered casing. Then I just hooked it over the top of the mirror. IMO, simpler than glue, and obviously less permanent. (The green strip is double sided adhesive foam, which didn't work.)

We recently thought of doing this, but in the end decided to take down the monster of a mirror over our double vanity and replaced with two nicely framed mirrors. We changed out our brass fixtures (we built 11 years ago) to ORB and I found mirrors that went well with the fixtures.

Your mirror is more than likely glued because ours was. We had the glass company come and take it down. Of course we were left with nice *circles* where the glue had been. We were repainting the room anyway so it wasn't a big deal.

tina

Weedyacres- is the frame just kind of hanging then? It looks fine, but I am wondering if it is not affixed?
thank you

weedyacres - Some times the toughest projects can be so simple. lol You have a great mind!

Do you have any adhesive at the bottom...just to keep the frame from flipping up?

The website on the link (below) might help you with your gluing question.

Here is a link that might be useful: gluing this to that

Weedyacres- I do like the non-permanence of your idea. Great idea! Is your frame wood? IÂm wondering about the weight. My mirror runs along one whole wall so is over 5 feet long. (Thinking out loudÂ) I could use a thin molding but then it may be too thin to nail the corners together.

I used door/window casings that are some sort of foam-like material, so they're very light. I used L-brackets and short screws on the back to hold the corners together, not nails.

Yes, it's just kind-of floating over the mirror. I used three hooks across the top, so it's stable. I do have that double-sided foam tape on the bottom corners, and it sticks enough to gently hold the bottom in place.

It's a 48" mirror, BTW.

Beyond kewl:)
thanks.

I think you are referring to my post in there. I used casing (door and window molding) and used liquid nails, just the regular construction glue as that is all that was available at the time I did it. I did this to all the three bathrooms in our old house and they lasted really well with nothing ever coming loose even in steamy conditions for 7 years until I sold the house.

I had no issues with the back showing and I believe that is because casing sits flush on the edges with what it attaches to and has a indentation in the middle.

BTW as for permanency I took the mirror in the master down 5 years after doing it as I built a taller vanity as the old one was water damaged (not the pic I showed). I had no problem removing the molding. I damaged the molding, but could have easily saved the mirror by just removing the glue residue if I had wanted to.

Anyone know how to remove the mirror edging that my builder had put on my large mirror? I would like to take it off and put a dark stained window casing around the edge instead, but don't know if I would damage the mirror by trying to get the mirror edge off.

Edging seen just visible at the top
{{!gwi}}

How well would this work for a very large mirror? The one over our double sink vanity is 87" long and I don't even know how high. I'd like to keep it only if it's dressed up in some way. It's held up by clips, but even so, it would probably need to be moved up a bit. The current backsplash is only 3 1/2 inches tall (I'm thinking the new backplash will be somewhat larger tiles). Thanks!

We did something similar to weedyacres with the hooks at the top. DH bent some sheet metal to make brackets at the bottom which hooked on the back side of the mirror and we had space to screw them into the frame from the bottom.

I suppose if you don't have room on the bottom you could do the hooks on the bottom first and then screw the other brackets in from the top.

I hate screwing around with glue as most likely it will be me several years down the road who will want to remove it....thought the double stick tape would probably be doable.

moremoremore - Could you please tell me where you got the glass knobs for your vanity? I really like them and I'm shopping for something similar for our guest bath right now.

liquid nails!

3M Trim Mounting Tape would work a treat if there was a second person to help and the frame was pre-assembled. That stuff grips like grim death, instantly (one try) and is waterproof. Used for affixing badges and trim molding on cars

I have a f iend who actually used hot glue. Regular old hot glue. She used a lot of it but the molding is still on and it has been years. The reason she went with the hot glue is that she was worried she might want to be able able to pull it off one day and switch it out.

I did this - I used liquid nails for mirrors, bought at Home Depot. Here are before and after pics. I also painted the vanity and the cultured marble countertop, applied a top coat of marine grade polyurethane. This was done 2 years ago as a quick facelift, it still looks the same, has held up well! We are planning to replace the vanity and flooring next year, but it made the bathroom less ugly for the meantime.

As far as how-to goes, I had to remove the clips and shoot some of the mirror adhesive down the back, replace the clips overnight to let the adhesive set (now glued to the wall). Then remove all the clips, make sure mirror is really secure and then glue the wood to the mirror. I used crown molding for the top. I chose to do square corners not mitered because the crown at the top was not a miter join (though it was a mitered cut to look right).

Before

After

This is just the post I was looking for. I have one large mirror that I want to cut into 2 smaller pieces and frame them. I have looked at Mirror Mate, but a nice alternative is to buy unfinished molding and stain it to the color of your cabinets that way you get a perfect match. The nice thing about Mirror Mate is you can find some great designs to add just a bit of flare. -- Thank for the post! great job!

Hi I have a round resin frame and would like to mount a mirror into it. I'm hoping to produce to sell.

Any suggestions on the safest way to secure the mirror would be very much appreciated.

I've seen thin round wood placed after the mirror and then barackets screwed to hold the woodnin place.

*Would I need to glue the mirror in?

*Would the inner frame need to be painted black due to the reflection?

Would I need to use a parcel tape for example over the wood to resin join?

Thanks for your time and support.