To start with, I wouldn't even consider moving this tree. If you take into account the difficulty of digging and moving it and the relatively unlikely chances of survival, it's near impossible to justify. Eucalyptus are very sensitive to root disturbance. If you are crazy enough to try it, I'd follow Seasonednurserywoman's advice on timing. I would differ from her on a few of things though. The drip line has nothing to do with where the roots are. A tree's rootzone is often 2 to 3 times the diameter of its canopy and feeder roots are generally located in the outer areas of the rootzone. The size of the rootball depends on a number of factors such as type of tree, type of soil, your ability to handle the rootball, etc. A very general rule of thumb for a tree with a trunk diameter of 5" would lead to a rootball diameter of 4.5' to 5' and a depth of about 18" to 24". Of course, a larger rootball is always better. If time is not a factor, root pruning prior to the move could also increase the chances of survival. It's always a good idea to plant a tree just a little higher than it was originally. Settlement is inevitable, and it's important that the top of the rootball doesn't end up lower than it was to start with. As has been repeated over and over and over in this forum and backed up by relatively all modern studies on the subject, amending the soil when transplanting a tree or shrub is almost never a good idea. While it is a good idea to make sure your rootball gets sufficient water and does not dry out, "soak(ing) your tree everyday" is a sure way to kill your tree in most situations. The frequency of watering depends on a number of factors including climate and soil type. This topic has also been covered numerous times in this forum and further information should be available with just a little searching.

The OP said, "...He included them because we showed him pictures of styles we like and that was one of them. I'm just not sure how it would work... can I do molding with that? Would it close in the space more vs. regular opening? This opening is from the living room to the family room, I'm thinking of mirroring this opening on the other side of the house from the dining room to the kitchen. I wonder if that would be excessive and I should leave the opening to one area of the house or if it would look weird with two different style openings?..." So you asked for arches and your architect gave you a design. Now you have doubts about what you asked for? The design is excellent and easily constructed. Only one of anything in a house design will often look out of place, however...and...wait for it...alone! So, no, don't do just one. If you are going to have an arch, then have...arches, i.e., more than one, included in a thoughtful and appropriate way. Have you talked with your architect about your doubts?

Green Designs says: The added expense of HVAC temperature control and stratified temperature layers is another. I appreciate your green focus, but this statement doesn't ring true, with me. Relatively small home (2400 sq ft, on my lot, was all that was allowed, but really pushes the boundaries of "open concept", with windows everywhere)- 10' down and 9' up. None of it energy inefficient. Quite literally, our energy costs are much less than many apartments with 8'-9' ceilings, and yes! It's all due to a well-designed home, HVAC system that's zoned and an energy-efficient temp control system. But I do know how on-top-of it one must be, to make the HVAC system good, before walls are put in. Hardest thing I ever had to learn. And? People hate ceiling fans and then design homes that require them. Then they don't own a ladder tall enough to change the light bulbs. First, not all people hate ceiling fans.They are there for a reason. I certainly don't. I bought gorgeous stainless- but no bulbs. That is a feature I don't like. But down- 10'- they serve to bring the ceilings "down", and they are part of our energy-conserving plan. Not hard to clean, and I'm 5'2". Just have the right telescoping equipment. Up: 9', still fans. And all those fans work together to prevent stagnant air. They also work well with the simple concept of a thermal chimney. As a result, we have very, very low utility bills. Quite honestly, we pay less than people with homes half our size/ One thing we really agree on is the need for great design. My architect lit the way. Another? Sure. Cabinetry can cost a bit more. I have cabs in the kitchen that go all the way up. But the upper cabs are storage, for seasonal etc, and complete the clean lines I was going for. No need for extraneous furniture that I really didn't want- currently in a minimalist phase. But planned correctly? The relatively small charge for the cabs, all the way up, cost me far less than whatever the heck I would have needed to store it all, and keep the look of the house. And well- they are so much easier to clean- no dust on top.

To me, drywall based molding is cheap. You may not agree and that is perfectly fine. But hear me out. There are some people (like me) that come to your house and think 11 ft ceilings are all fancy but you cheaped out on the details. Now you can dismiss me as a snob and that is fine. But you should know that there are people out there that understand trim and feel like you are being less than genuine. My last hood had 55 houses built by 5 custom builders. One of these areas that was developed and each builder bought lots (presumably 11 each but not sure about that). They then built some spec houses and some custom. All to about the same level (fancy cookie cutter we liked to call it). Trim levels usually pretty ornate. Most with 10 down/9up ceilings. You could always tell which houses were Rudy's houses. Ah the corners he cut..... like drywall based crown. Our good friend's next door bought a Rudy (not the company's name) spec house..... My builder (total trim snob) refers to drywall based trim as a "spec house trick" that he refused to partake in. Better to have no trim than fake trim.... On your other issue - you should post a floor plan. 11ft transitioning down to 9 ft is tricky with door sizes as you are figuring out. But the plan matters. You can mix 8 ft doors and 7 ft doors in the right situation I think.