skip to main content

beeswax and mineral oil for counters?

12 years ago

Hello all,

Our teak countertops were just installed and I am planning to finish them with a beeswax/mineral oil blend. My reasoning (please comment):

1. We plan to cut, knead dough, and generally use these countertops for food prep

2. The other half of the kitchen is soapstone and I figure I can make this finish work for those countertops too

2a. I know for soapstone you can use straight mineral oil, but wax lasts longer. No idea what is in those proprietary soapstone waxes (like Dorado) so if beeswax will work, I am more comfortable with it seeping into my dough etc.

3. This combination has seemed to work well for other GWers who cut directly on their countertops.

Here's a pic of the unfinished counter:

{{!gwi}}

And a detail on the butcherblock area:

{{!gwi}}

Now. I am getting nervous because the countertops are a considerable investment and I don't want to screw anything up. My questions are:

1. What is the right ratio? I've seen everything from 50/50 to 2:1 mineral oil:beeswax.

2. How, exactly, does one apply this stuff? My contractor, who is great, has never done this and it makes him nervous too. Slop it on with a cotton cloth, let sit, and buff out (with what)?

3. Anyone want to put in an argument for something other than this mineral oil/beeswax combo?

Appreciate any advice - you all are so great!

Sort by:Oldest

Comments (6)

doggonegardener
12 years ago
I use this for just the same reasons as you. I wanted something that would last longer than plain oil. I wanted something I could use on both my butcher block and my soapstone. I wanted something that would not leave any slick, oily residue. It's REALLY simple and you can't mess up. Just rub it on with a cloth, I keep one for this purpose in a bag with the canister of product under the sink. Then rub off the extra with another cloth. Simple as that. Idiot proof. Smells good too.

Ne

Here is a link that might be useful: Wooden Wonders
User
12 years ago
Don't have a suggestion for the oil as I don't cut on mine but your countertops came out beautifully. I know you will love them as much as I love my teak and soapstone. Please post again when they are oiled. c
Related Discussions
Beeswax/mineral oil mixture for soapstone
Q
Comments (2)
You can make your own by getting beeswax online or in a craft store, then melting it 50/50 with mineral oil -- not hard to do at all. I also add a few drops of almond oil to give it a nice scent.
...See More
soapstone owners 'green' alternative to mineral oil?
Q
Comments (29)
Thanks for the information. I know mineral oil as a skin care ingredient that is harmful to the skin. The molecumolecular structure is too large to be absorbed so it sits on the skin and "tells" the skin to shut down its moisture-producing. Leaves skin drier than before so is a perpetual issue as a moisturizer. Soapstone is non-porous, so anything put on it will either sit and dry (mineral oil) or sit and harden (walnut oil, for example). Mineral oil is harmful to humans and the environment (it is a waste product of crude oil and is cheap emulsifier so used in a lot og skin care for spread-ability). To address another’s comment about USB mineral oil OK to injest, it coats your organs that’s why it helps with constapation but is terrible for our health. Amazes me that some doctors still recommend this. Please know that just because something is natural, does doesn’t mean it is safe. Baby Baby oil is mineral oil plus fragfragrance. A baby drank it and it coated the lungs/organs and the baby died. After this, baby oil was mandated to use perscription-type safety lids. For me, it makes sense not to coat my counters with it no matter how refined. I don’t want my grandkids eating food off of it. I don’t claim to know a lot but have been to medical lectures and got the gist of it. My thinking: be as safe as possible, find reasonable, healthy alternatives. Use an oil that will dry and harden. Walnut oil. Boiled linseed oil. After hours of research, Im ordering the Real Milkpaint Soapstone Sealer (although soapstone is non-porous so does’t need to be sealed) because it has walnut oil and wax. I’ve never used it before and am not endorsing it, but reviews seem to favor it. Wish me luck! 😊 All the best to you all.
...See More
seal, beeswax, oil, wood countertop
Q
Comments (4)
I have found that mineral oil and beeswax works very well....and no need to buy any counter-top/cutting board oil, just go to the local pharmacy and buy a jug of mineral oil...will only be a few $$ After a few tests I have found that I like a 3:2 ratio the best...3 ounces of oil: 2 ounces of beeswax I use a cheese grater to shave off the beeswax, then put the shaving in a double boiler with the mineral oil...must keep warm to keep it from getting hard. Once it is all mixed together and melted you can apply with a cotton cloth, on a raw piece I would do several light coats If you make extra you can store in a mason type jar and just heat up again when you need it....can also be used to recoat any wooden utensils, bowls etc
...See More
Bee's oil vs. mineral oil
Q
Comments (5)
The morning after I oil my counters (Black Venata), they always have that "mottled" look you describe. I just go over them one more time with a dry paper towel, rubbing fairly vigorously, and it smooths everything right out. Occasionally, I'll have to do this one more time in spots, but after that, it looks great for months. I'm honestly not a huge fan of the beeswax-oil combo, even though it does keep the stone looking darker longer. I have used it a couple of times, but I found it far more difficult to apply (even following all the softening suggestions here), and I didn't really like the feel of it afterward. I want to feel my stone, not a wax coating on it. Going over it with an oily rag is just so much easier. I just keep the rags in a ziplock bag and hardly even have to add oil any more. And, after a year and a half, I only need to oil every four or five months to keep it looking good.
...See More
gardengrl66 z5
Original Author
12 years ago
Hmm, I am beginning to find the answers to at least some of my questions - the search engine on Gardenweb is so funny! I found info about the proportions on an old thread about oiling soapstone. Still nothing on what the best cloth to use...yes, a "soft cloth" but made of what? Cotton? Smooth cotton (like a flour sack)? Terry cloth (like a washcloth)? Microfiber (whatever that is)?

Here is a link that might be useful: waxing soapstone
User
12 years ago
I use pieces of an old cotton t-shirt for applying oil/beeswax to my soapstone counters and maple butcher block topped prep table. I don't think you need anything finer, nor anything so absorbent as terrycloth.

I wouldn't go so far as to say "slop it on," not because you can hurt anything by putting on too much (you'd just wipe the excess off) but because you don't really need that much of the mixture. Put a dab on the cloth, rub it in with grain, and see what the wood absorbs.

Try it first on scrap pieces of wood and of stone, if you have them, just to get the feel. That may help you feel less daunted about starting in on your beautiful new counters.
laxsupermom
12 years ago
I use a plain cotton cloth to apply mine, and a waffle weave cloth to buff it out. I keep my rag inside my oil/wax container and use as needed.
gardengrl66 z5
Original Author
12 years ago
Mnerg and lax,

Thank you - that is exactly the sort of minute detail I was looking for. With regard to the "slopping" - my only prior experience of oiling things is with a teak coffee table using tung oil. It was my mother's and she literally poured a puddle of it on to the table, spread it around and let it soak in. Obviously it is way different with wax in the mix.

Old t-shirts we have in abundance - if I can get DH to part with one! :>)

Related Stories

HOUZZ TOURS My Houzz: When Memories of Home Are of Paint and Linseed Oil

By Margot Hartford Photography

A San Francisco Bay Area artist’s sun-drenched home doubles as her gallery and studio

KITCHEN DESIGN Kitchen Counters: Durable, Easy-Clean Soapstone

By Ivon Street Studio

Give bacteria the boot and say sayonara to stains with this long-lasting material that's a great choice for kitchen and bath countertops

KITCHEN DESIGN Soapstone Counters: A Love Story

By Alison Hodgson

Love means accepting — maybe even celebrating — imperfections. See if soapstone’s assets and imperfections will work for you

KITCHEN DESIGN Your Kitchen: 10 Great Alternatives to Granite Counters

KITCHEN DESIGN The Best Backsplashes to Pair With Wood Counters

By Becky Harris

Simplify your decision-making with these ideas for materials that work well with wood counters

KITCHEN DESIGN Super Backsplashes to Pair With Recycled-Paper Counters

By Becky Harris

Aesthetics and personal ethics come together for most folks who opt for this eco-friendly material

KITCHEN DESIGN Kitchen Counters: Recycled Paper Surprises With Durability and Warmth

By Ivon Street Studio

Sturdier than you might think, this postconsumer countertop material also has major environmental cred

KITCHEN DESIGN Kitchen Counters: Stunning, Easy-Care Engineered Quartz

By Ivon Street Studio

There's a lot to like about this durable blend of quartz and resin for kitchen countertops, and the downsides are minimal

KITCHEN COUNTERTOPS Kitchen Counters: Quartzite Offers Strength and Beauty

By Jeannie Matteucci

Eye-catching patterns and a natural pedigree make durable quartzite a popular alternative to granite and marble

WOODWORKING How to Clean and Care for Your Butcher Block

By R. Olson Design

Keep butcher block counters and boards looking sharp as a knife — and sanitized for safe food prep — with this advice from a pro woodworker

Sponsored

More Discussions

Does anyone have Medallion cabinets in Maple Biscotti?

10

can anyone share picture of Silestone Lusso countertop

1

contractor chooses kitchen

33

Adding prep sink; single or double for cleanup?

1

Small kitchen with angled wall

4