Thanks! After I wrote this message, I was worried about the Reno T because it has to be in a sense, glued in. I read that you can't get any glue on the floating floor, because then it can't expand. Can we try to just try to concentrate the stuff on the bottom and the tile. I know some will get on the wood, but we could try to minimize the amount? What size do you think would be best? I'd love to see how you did the stone! Our marble is only the width of tile, would that be enough to put the ends of the wood under? There is cement board under the marble. Also, what kind of molding do we use at the sliding glass doors? Have you used these moldings before? Which holds up best? One other question (sorry!). We are having the tile installed professionally and we are doing the wood. We were planning to have the tile installed first, and then add the wood (the pathway is about 3 1/2 wide). Is that a good plan? Thanks so much for helping with our "puzzle". We're excited about the project. Kristen

Hello, I'm putting new flooring in my kitchen (1/2" engineered hard wood and ceramic tile) and will have about 1/4 difference between the surfaces. 1. 1/4 backer + 3/8 tile and grout = ~3/4" 2. 1/2" wood floor = 1/2" I'm doing the tile first and want to know what the best way to finish off the edge that will meet the wood flooring so that when I get around to installing the wood floor, things will go as smooth as possible. I know I'll have to use a wood transition/reducer piece but my main concern right now is how to finish the tile edge... Should I use some sort of a retainer so that I can grout around the outside edge or is there something better? Any suggestions/pictures would be great! Thanks!

A product called tap and track will work. You 1st will nail (using a masonry nail) a track down beside the product. You then snap a vinyl insert into the track that will have a shorter side on the tile side or carpet and reduce longer down to the concrete. You can get it in about 50 colors. Burke Mercer has inexpensive products...Johnsonite and there are others... Call yur local independent flooring store then go in and explain to them the appication. They should have some generic colors in stock. if carpet is on cushion..you can get it with Pins that actually will hold the carpet in place. let the store show you. 12 ft will cost you about 20 bucks or so track and all

Sorry, I completely misunderstood your post. I thought you meant a transition piece between the two floors (ie, schluter, t strip molding). Don't grout that joint between the two floors. It needs to be caulked if you go that route. Otherwise, the difference in expansion/contraction between the two materials will cause the grout to crack. As far as grout color, look at lots of pictures. I would think you'd lose a lot of the beautiful herringbone pattern if you tried to match the dominant color. The tones of the two floors are very similar, so they already connect on that level. I don't think you have an issue of transitioning in terms of grout color. I guess the more natural selection for a wood look would be a little darker than the main color, like a shadow between the boards. A lighter color or a gray will look more like a tile floor with grout. I wouldn't do something lighter, as in peachy. You can kind of see what it would look like lighter right now. The higher the contrast you have with the tile will affect how busy or pronounced the floor pattern will look. Maybe you could cut strips of colored construction paper to lay over the joints to see what appeals to you more. You've got some variation in the tile colors, but when you use a grout color that matches the flooring, the floor becomes one big solid mass of color. Here is a link that might be useful: herringbone tile pictures This post was edited by snookums2 on Thu, Aug 8, 13 at 23:15