Not the OP but I'm still on here and a lot of water has gone under the bridge. I had the Wolf DF for about 4.5 years and the cobalt blue enamel came off of the bottom after running the self clean. This has been an issue, if you look at the lawsuits on these ranges built as far back as 2006. Quite a few posters had issues of chipping with as many a three ovens in a row. The all gas versions do not seem to have the issue (no blue interior) although they are mentioned in at least one lawsuit. I like Dacor platforms that were bigger too but the ovens I had were worthless. Mine were with the Discovery controllers at the time, different from some of the other ovens. They have since been bought by Samsung and been through model changes through the years. I though maybe they fixed them but there was recently a poster here that bought a wall oven and returned it quickly because they had issues with it. What type of cooking do you do? The Ilve has a few things that might cause concern for some people. The burners are all underpowered for what most people want now. Ranges like BlueStar and Capital have 22-25K on at least two burners. The Wolf all gas also tops out at 15K and you may have had 15 or 16K on your Dacor range So maybe that works for you. I have 15K on my Wolf DF and it is OK but it is on all burners except one. Many people complain that a griddle with 15K is underpowered so 10.5K would be even less. They also mention that the griddle is stainless so it will not season like rolled steel on Wolf. Stainless by itself is one of the poorest conductors of heat so would heat unevenly unless it has aluminum or copper sandwiched in. The French top is also only 8.5K BTUs compared to 18K on something like BlueStar. Also check out the oven size. Look at the usable rack size. A lot of space is taken up by the warming drawer. Look at the broiler size. This is the manual. I would read it and it might bring some other questions to mind. http://ilveappliances.com/sites/default/files/documents/ILVE_Manual_2-13.pdf Do you have service for Ilve where you live? Here are some threads here on Houzz about Ilve ranges in general. https://www.houzz.com/discussions/appliances/query/Ilve/nqrw

I appreciate the input from CircusPeanut, Lascatx, Fori, Doraville, GizmoNike. Thanks so much. Lots of agony, sturm and drang until midnight, but have decided with DH that the cupboards will not be extra deep. It was a long and gentle argument I won't bore you with. But just remember as you read further that I am the "Queen of the Tablesettings." So...Now in the plans, there are two 20-inch pullout breadboards on that bank of lower cupboards to provide additional launching and "plunk space" and chopping/prep surface slightly lower than countertop and allowing stool use for long sitting if the boards are used for multi-cook occasions. One of them will have a direct view outside, perhaps centered on a bird feeder. The upper cupboards as I said previously will hold everyday drinking glasses, wine glasses, dishes, serving pieces on lower 2 shelves; less used but attractive glassware and serving pieces on upper two shelves; fronts are rough semi-translucent glass. The window separates the two doubledoor upper cupboards. The whole wall is designated in my plans as launching place for tablesetting and for a beverage/bar station and for sandwich making. In my G design, this is the top of the G. There is a lazy susan that turns the corner from top of G to side of G. Lazy susan will hold cereal and cracker boxes, hard liquor, canned appetizers and salsas, coffee and tea gear, teapot, canned beverages (we drink pop and juice only occasionally), auxiliary induction hotplate and electric warmer unit for serving, At the top of the G, the lower cupboard has two stacks of 3 symmetrical drawers about a yard wide each. The top drawer closest to refrig and dining room will contain everyday flatware and napkins and other yet-to-be-named stuff. There's a possibility that I can fit it with silvercloth dividers to hold a set of everyday silverplate flatware that currently is stored in a box. The other top drawer will have a) beer/wine openers, a couple paring knives, tea balls, hors d'ouvres- and cheese- serving gear b) candle-related and flower arranging gear (matches, candles, short candlesticks, "frogs," bobeches, shears). Two sets of deeper symmetrical drawers below will hold some of my china and the offseason dishes destined to be used on deck/patio in summer, which can be rotated upward to more accessible places in season. I have given up the idea of making a tablecloth drawer--there just isn't enough room, I fear. Instead, the horrible former front hall closet on the far side of the dining room will be outfitted with shelves to make a storage closet for vases, awkward silver serving pieces, and tablecloths hung from dowels or hangers. In a great article I read recently, another tablesetting maniac suspended her tablecloths from a closet rod and had permanent pin-on lables to indicate tablecloth size. I might be able to put two very wide table leaves in here also, rescuing them from under my bed storage now. I really wanted the deeper 27-inch drawers, but hey, Florantha, remember this mantra, "You can't have everything." I also tell myself when I get upset about all this, "If they had wanted perfection, they would have hired God." Breadboards rule!

The fundamental problem with this kitchen is absolute lack of 3-drawer base cabinets. A base cabinet with a shallow drawer over a door is only about 54 percent effective in terms of readily accessible ergonomic storage suitable for everyday or frequently used items. Refacing the base cabinets without converting most of them to drawer bases is purely cosmetic and does nothing to improve storage. The cost of conversion + new doors and drawer faces + cost of refacing would be similar to comparable quality new cabinets, which is why new cabinets are a better choice. And while extending uppers to the ceiling can eliminate the dust issue, anything taller than 77” is not readily accessible ergonomic storage suitable for everyday or frequent use items. In short, you are paying for marginal use storage. If dusting the top of the existing uppers is a pain, accessing taller uppers will be too. Focus should be improving functionality of base cabinets.

Hmmm, I heard they went to crap after they got bought out but that prior to that many people liked them. Not sure what year that was though but something to look into. I know you're excited but I'd make 100% sure that you will be able to convert it to LP and that every single part you need is readily available. I would find a local installer who has been doing this for many years and sit down with him to discuss before buying, it's not the kind of thing you want to take chances with...if anything goes wrong the best case scenario is it just doesn't work, the other possibilities are much more serious.