Doing a quick search I could not find what I'm seeing in my mind's eye ... but I'm thinking crystal pulls with nickel accents, but mostly clear crystal (or glass). This isn't quite it, but close. This one is more old-fashioned, so not exactly what I have in mind, but again, I really like the elegant clear pull with the polished nickel small accent. I have to go to sleep so I cannot search anymore, but I hope someone pipes in with something delicious for you!

Hi davidtay: I have read the post you linked so many times, but when the discussion gets to the bulb types, my eyes start crossing. And then I get worried about purchasing a lifetime bulb now only to replace it in a few years when technology changes. I was hoping to use incandescent now and upgrade to LED when the technology improves. I've inserted an updated lighting plan and would love your input on that. Will this plan give me enough light if I use incandescent? Keep in mind that my cabinets are cherry and my counter tops are soapstone. I considered installing LED in the kitchen and incandescent everywhere else but I think the color differential between the two type of lighting will be a problem. 1. If I go with 4-inch housings in the kitchen and end up with regular incandescent will the lighting be too dim? 2. I am installing several eyeball trims throughout the house and the local lighting store tells me they do not have an LED bulb for the eyeball trim. So I would have to use incandescent for those fixtures. Is there a manufacturer out there who makes both LED and incandescent that are the same color? I'm not sure if you read my kitchen forum post, but in our area, most professionals are advising to wait for the LED technology to improve. (I inserted a link to my kitchen thread.) We make our own electricity with Photovoltaic so our electric bills are pretty minimal. Any advice is appreciated. thank you so much. . Here is a link that might be useful: x post kitchens forum

How wide is the crown? If it is not more than 6" wide, a compuond miter saw(just tilt/turn) will be sufficient. I have a DeWalt 12" CMS(Compound Miter Saw) I have used for installing all kinds of trim for several years. If you need a slider, Makita/Bosch make the better ones---and if you get a slider, a 10" model should be enough. Frued makes a Fine Finish blade(80 tooth model) that I use for trim. It is a thinner than normal blade and does have a deflection issue if I cut too fast---but nice and slow allows beautiful cuts. However, I only use the miter saw for outside corner joints---and initial cuts for coping---I cope as many inside joints as possible. I have two cabinetmakers rasps(flat one side and half round on the other with a rasp cut and file cut each) and an old wooden handle coping saw my father had. Reason being that most corners in most houses are not a perfect 45 degree angle. That means to get a decent joint, you need to measure each time you need to make a joint, divide in half, putter around adjusting the CMS table and hope it works. With a little practice, you can cope a joint---and it will be much better looking---faster than you can miter cut one(with all the adjusting/etc.) Plus, a coped joint does not open/close due to seasonal changes nearly as bad as mitered joints. You will see jigs advertised that allow you to cut coped joints with a jigsaw---I have no idea of the accuracy of those. Toe kick vent holes are better cut with a sabre saw(Jigsaw)---you already have that. Nailers---whooBoy! In my experience, the correct size nail for crowm will split shoe molding, so one nailer for all your jobs is not gonna happen. Those Paslodes are nice tools---but expensive and dirty---meaning cleaning is required---ala pistol shooting. So, that means two nailers. About $700-$800+. You can buy a Porter Cable combo---with a 16 guage 2&1/2" nailer(will do crown nicely), an 18 gauge nailer(shoe), a 7/32" stapler(I use one for part of the door casing installation---same size as what is used to install casing on prehund assemblies)----plus a compressor(loud) , hose, fittings, and lube oil bottle. I have and have used all those nailers in commercial use for years---not a problem. For about $250 for the whole shebang. And, with the compressor/nailers, you have the ability to regulate pressure/depth of the nail set. The only drawback---in my experience, is the compressor noise---it is loud, due to the oilless design. I have a slightly larger oil type compressor in my shop that is much quieter, but much less portable. I bought a longer hose and keep the compressor in the next room---cuts way down on the noise. Sounds as if you will do a fine job, you have the right attitude and abilities. Let us know what you bought and how it is going.

i responded on the other thread, but switch out the sink for a single bowl. it will be a lot more functional, and you'll have a wider range of faucets to choose from. GL.