Fabuwood??
14 years ago
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- 14 years agolast modified: 9 years ago
- 14 years agolast modified: 9 years ago
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Fabuwood Galaxy Frost Cabinets and white paint?
Comments (56)I have some good news. I was able to find a close match for for my Fabuwood bright white galaxy frost cabinet molding. I took one of the doors to my local Benjamin Moore paint store, its not a 100% but its about 95% match. I repainted that original cabinet that I posted before with the Sherwin Williams paint and I am posting these new pictures so you can see the improvement. I am very satisfied with this color and it only cost $26 for the pint size, better than paying $79 to Fabuwood. I bought the crown molding from Home Depot, it was a lot cheaper than purchasing them from Fabuwood. This was a big project cutting and installing the crown molding....See MoreFabuwood vs Cabinets.com vs. RTA???
Comments (17)Ok … so one place quoted my (apx 30 feet) Fabuwood cabinets for $12,500 and another for $7,500. (??? Do not quite get this why… asked the dealer and he said “ we provide excellent service” …hmmm) I also got quotes from Costco for Tuscany Kitchen value express ( basic stock ) cabinets for $8500. Green Forest $7000 ( quote from 2 different places / similar quotes ). The prices are approximate … all the layouts for the cabinets were pretty much the same. They included all drawer base cabinets, drawer microwave cabinet, garbage pull out… upper were tall either 39” or 42”. Majority of them were 12” deep. Green Forest were 15” deep. They are all 1/2 plywood boxes … Blum closures for Fabuwood and green forest. Basic soft closures for Costco. All have dove tail drawers. Green forest had basic colors (ex very white conversion varnish finish with S.williams paint ) their finish is nice to touch and dovetail has smoother ridge comparing to Fabuwood. I was told that bottom of the drawers in. Green Forest are stronger than Fabuwood. Attaching picture of Green Forest construction box....See MoreFabuwood or cubitac kitchen cabinets?
Comments (9)Kraftmaid has a pretty typical warranty - it covers the cabinets for so long as they are "owned" by the original purchaser. However god is in the details and so the following are excluded The bolded would typically exclude a lot of issues because - at least in my experience - cabinets boxes do not collapse nor do front panels of drawers come off and all of the shelving was straight and unbowed - and I jammed loads of heavy pots and pans into the bottom large cabinet. When I remodeled, my cabinets were over 50 years old - they were ugly - the configuration wasn't the greatest but they were solid as a tank and could probably have lasted another 50 years. I am not denigrating Kraftmaid as I think they make a very good semi-custom product. Just pointing out that most of the issues with cabinets would not generally fall within the warranty as they would either be at issue when delivered or be cosmetic issues relating to wear and tear. Also at best you would get a new cabinet so all of the costs of installation - counters, sinks, faucets, hardware etc. would be paid by the homeowner. WHAT IS NOT COVERED? The natural aging or darkening of wood color, the inherent growth characteristics of, or variation in wood. We believe this is the beauty of nature and not a defect. Products or parts purchased without a finish. Wear and tear, damage or defects caused by misuse, abuse, negligence, alteration, non-residential use, or improper installation, storage, or handling....See MoreHood Vent to fit 36" Fabuwood Hood
Comments (56)Well, let's see if I'm up to four questions all at once. Rule no. 1, do not believe VaH sales persons trying to explain blower operation unless you have some other means of determining their veracity, and most importantly, their understanding of the fluid dynamics of air. Rule no. 2. Blowers that suck air also blow air and cannot know what is the cause of the pressure differential across the blades, at least at the tiny pressure differences that apply to hood blowers. Pulling air could be a problem when the intake is at feet of water column reduced pressure, not inches. This does not mean that the blowers will be unaffected by operating into a duct bend, or from a hood transition, etc., but in general, even a VaH blower is pulling air from one side and pushing with the other side, and its blower, like all others, is constructed for one direction of air flow and to achieve a particular flow rate performance at a tolerable sound pressure level. I don't keep up with VaH, but I thought that their 1200 CFM (claimed) hood had two 600 CFM blowers, not four 300 CFM blowers. Perhaps they are using two motors, each with two cages. Fan blade tip noise is caused by the turbulence of the air spilling from the blade tip. It results from operating at a high speed exacerbated by spilling from a crude airfoil shape. Casablanca ceiling fans move a lot of air but the turbulence is at most modest due to the low speed of each blade tip. Duct noise is from irregular air flow in ducts. It generally won't be laminar at the flow rates of interest (1000 - 2000 ft/min). Pressure loss of bends is the result of degrading the flow due to increased side wall interaction as the moving air tries to pile into the blockage ahead before turning. Smoother longer turns reduce the effect. VaH Magic Lung blowers use squirrel cage designs that are good, I guess, for throwing grease at the hood walls, but have a weakness -- they don't like added pressure loss relative to some other popular fan configurations, such as axial in-line blowers or centrifugal carousel types such as Wolf/Broan/Abbaka roof blowers, so actual flow due to inadequate MUA or constrictive ducting will have a greater effect on actual flow rate than these other designs. It is certainly possible to build an external chase for ducting and even for the silencer (about 4 inches larger in diameter). Number of bends is worth minimizing, but it is always possible to specify a blower to provide the needed flow rate at a given pressure loss if the bend number cannot be minimized. Roof blowers usually also work mounted on walls. One secondary effect is that on roofs, sunlight UV generally degrades and eliminates any grease that condenses on the blades and is expelled onto the shingles, whereas on siding that is in shade the grease may become noticeable. Commercial blowers operated in up-blast or side-blast configurations likely will not blow grease onto house surfaces, but condensation within the unit may lead to some release around the unit. Downward ducting has a couple of deficiencies. The process of turning a rising plume to a downward direction requires additional energy (equivalent to pressure loss) and likely causes the grease particulates that escape the baffles to condense by impingement early rather than being expelled. To keep the typically long horizontal underfloor duct path from dripping, a continuous down tilt will be desirable, and in a typical basement this may lead to requiring a hole in concrete rather than in a wood wall. Some municipalities may not approve such paths. The "heat rising" view is probably less relevant because the duct velocity will be at least 10X the velocity of the intake to the hood. Last, an observation. My hood blower is rated for 1500 CFM and is roof mounted. Actual flow into my hood is about 1000 CFM with presently passive MUA. This is 100 ft/min air flow across the hood entry aperture. I have a 10-inch duct with LD-10 silencer. Flow is 1800 ft/min in the duct. There are three bends, all less than 90 degrees to get the vertical hood direction to a shallower direction in my attic that encompasses the silencer, then two more partial turns to match the roof blower's intake angle. Note that configurations of this type not only allow room for the silencer, but also allow the hood exhaust to be placed more optimally on the roof, if needed, than exactly above the hood. I hear mainly baffle hiss at the cooktop, with a slight underlying rumble, likely due to imperfect fan carousel balance interacting with imperfectly stiff roof planking. Edit: I feel comfortable asserting the baffle pressure loss, and MUA pressure loss, dominates all the pressure losses in my duct path. tl;dr: An external blower downstream from a silencer will always be quieter than a blower in the hood for a given flow rate so long as the external blower is not constrained to being significantly smaller than the in-hood blower. Other noise will depend on whether the baffle size and shape is reasonable for the air flow rate and the duct size is such that the air flow in the duct is in the range of 1000 to 2000 ft/min. Let me know what I forgot to answer....See MoreRelated Professionals
Fox Lake Kitchen & Bathroom Designers · Magna Kitchen & Bathroom Designers · Vineyard Kitchen & Bathroom Designers · South Park Township Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · West Palm Beach Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · Middlesex Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · Canton Cabinets & Cabinetry · Foster City Cabinets & Cabinetry · Kentwood Cabinets & Cabinetry · University Park Cabinets & Cabinetry · Ardmore Tile and Stone Contractors · Hermiston Tile and Stone Contractors · Mill Valley Tile and Stone Contractors · Honolulu Design-Build Firms · Mililani Town Design-Build Firms- 14 years agolast modified: 9 years ago
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