Love the second one. Sconces will give enough light. That is more about the bulb wattage and the type of sconce you get, i.e.: don't get sconces that have black shades and use a 10 watt bulb! Lol. Keep in mind that you can no longer buy incandescent bulbs (or at least once they run out of the current supply) so you want to look for LED bulbs, or whatever, with the equivalent wattage of 40 or 60 watts. I really like raehelen's idea of pendant lights too, but if you go with the hanging mirror, I think it would look kind of funny to have so much hanging from the ceiling. Interesting question, whether pendants would be odd over a toilet. Also, if you do replace the tile with some other kind of tile or wainscoting, I would make the top of it lower than what is there now, which goes up too high. You want it to about where the towel bar is, in the old pic. One other thing: I would forego the shelf over the toilet and put some on the blank wall between the shower and toilet. Between the toilet, vanity, window, sconces, and mirror, you'll have a lot going on on that one wall, with nothing to balance it anywhere else. Just mho, of course! Re: Tile. My personal fave is good old-fashioned subway tile. Can never go wrong with it, and it always looks good.

You can keep the same elements but try mixing up the tile size and patterns. In one room the tile is set in a basic stacked pattern, in the next a running bond, an the other set in a diamond pattern, a herringbone, etc. Small standard subways in one room, then larger rectangles in the next. Etc. Pennyrounds, basket weave, yadda yadda. Cabinets? The boys can have a more masculine vanity, essentially a basic rectangular "block" of a vanity with simpler lines. No fancy ogees on the countertop, a simpler rounded over 90-degree edge on the rectangular slab with a rectangular sink. The daughters room can be more feminine, maybe a breakfront vanity with a slab top that flows around the breakfront with an ogee edge. More curves, softer to the eye. You're still staying within the same range of material and even color, just mixing up the shapes. In the end, we like what we like. You could always bring your daughter in to the design phase. Depending on her age, you can let her run with it, or if you're nervous doing that, offer her an A/B selection where you'll be happy with either A or B. Make it fun. Or you can keep control of the large elements and let her choose accents. I built my house when my daughter was five years old, we got around to finishing out her bedroom the next year. I asked her for design input in her bedroom, she wanted a "mousehole bed." She drew out a few sketches and this is what we ended up with: It's not anything I ever would have conceived on my own. So sometimes the kids can help you stretch your own creative element.

I will wholeheartedly agree with southernroots that 50CFM is not sufficient for your bathroom, but the 200cfm that he suggests is far too much. The first step of the project is to determine exactly what size of fans you need. Properly, the bathroom exhaust fans should produce 4 complete air exchanges per hour so the question then becomes how many cubic feet is four exchanges per hour? The main part of the bathroom is 10'x 12' which is 120sq.ft. Now assuming an 8' ceiling we get 120sq.ft x 8' vertical equals 960cu.ft in the room and we desire four complete exchanges per hour so we need to move 960cu.ft x 4 = 3840cu.ft per hour. We then divide 3840cu.ft/hr by 60min/hr and we get 64cu.ft/min. The shower is 4' x 5' so it is 20sq.ft and again assuming an 8ft ceiling we get 20sq.ft x 8' = 160cu.ft in the room. Four air exchanges per hour would then be 160cu.ft x 4 = 640cu.ft/hr. Now dividing 640cu.ft/hr by 60min.hr = 10cfm. For peak efficiency I would put a separate light/fan unit in each room sized to the nearest nominal trade size which is equal too or greater than the theoretical size from the computations. By example, you already know that 50cfm is not sufficient, but I doubt if you will find a 64cfm fan. The solution would be to then select a 75cm fan. Actually the slight increase would work to your advantage because it allows for line resistance of the ductwork, but to just arbitrarily install a 100cuft fan would result in way too much air flow, and keep in mind that you are paying to operate your HVAC system to condition all that excess air. Now, while you can run the duct up and out through the roof, I would prefer to run it horizontal to the nearest external wall and install a wall vent to the outside. That not only reduces the line friction loss in the duct work, it totally eliminates the possibiity of a roof leak where the line passes through the roof. Taking this to the next level, keep in mind that you are venting warm moisture laden air and as it passes through the ductwork it will cool and condensate moisture in the duct. For my house, I made the ducts with PVC pipe and installed them horizontal with a 1/4" per foot downward pitch to the wall outlet. In that manner I do not have to worry about metal ducting rusting or water pooling between the folds of flex duct.

ML, I have had no experience whatsoever with subways. I read about them being traditional, but have never seen them in anything but a modern setting in person, unless they were in an actual subway. That may be because I have only ever been in 1950s and newer houses with tile! To me they feel modern and very "in" and overused. I figured they have to go "out" sooner or later! However, I do respect your opinion. I thank you for your insight. I had not thought of whether the 6x6 effect looked MCM or not. The sink definitely has a pre-MCM vibe, as do the med cabinets. I suppose the lights do, too. And the dresser is definitely older. So square tiles came along in the MCM era, huh? Bummer. I avoided 4x4 tiles because that is what my 1978 home already has, I thought that by going bigger, I would avoid the era. Phooey. So I need to do subways to be in a 1940s and earlier vibe? Okay. Is the 4 x 6 you suggested more period than the 3 x 6 that are so easy to find everywhere now? BTW, as time passes, I am more and more inclined to go with the Carrara-looking trim, rather than the black. Then there is a part of me that says that I like color too much and that it is just hanging out on-line that has gotten me loving the Carrara look (because it is so loved on the kitchen forum and bath forum). I also am drooling over a mother-of-pearl tile to use as a listello between two rows of Carrara. Then again, if a beauteous tile becomes available for a great price on Craigslist, all bets are off on color! I am considering heating the floor. It will also help it to dry if it gets wet splash-over from the shower. Things like Carrara-looking tile and heated floors became more of an option when my SSDI came through. The Swanstone ADA floor with the trench drain is so new that I have not found a picture of a real consumer using it. The link below will take you to a PDF that shows the new shower floor and wall system. The shower floor is on the cover, but it does not show the whole shower. I will be getting the New Construction floor because we have to pull up the subfloor due to rot. I will get the 96" walls seen on the right on page 8/9, but in the color "Ice" or "Glacier". "Ice" is shown below, it is the closest they have to Carrara. "Glacier" is just white, but the surface looks like snowflakes, sort of. The shower looks way too skinny, but I keep telling myself that the shower looks skinny because of the drain taking some of the floorspace. It will be the same size as the bathtub, without the bathtub sides getting in the way of my feet. I keep saying that, but it sure looks skinny! That is why the floor outside the shower will be as water-proof as a shower would be. Here is a link that might be useful: Swan Shower PDF see Page 8/9