Kitchen Island Clearance Dimensions
jeff2013
10 years ago
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jeff2013
10 years agolast modified: 9 years agojeff2013
10 years agolast modified: 9 years agoRelated Discussions
36'' clearance around island - take 2
Comments (4)Thanks for the input. I had to chuckle because what you don't know is you are describing what I have now! I currently have a peninsula attached to the end of the sink cabinet run that is wide and long enough for two stools. My DW has made very few demands on this project, eliminating the peninsula in favor of an island is something she really wants. I'm absolutely OK with that although I will miss the stools. We'll use the dining room, which I've been doing for the last two weeks and I kind of like it. To make an island viable, we're moving the wall between the kitchen and DR 12'', otherwise the island would be a very skinny and useless. Bmorepanic, you are the second person to challenge my math. I must be using non-traditional drawing practices that are misleading, because I can't figure out how you would come to that conclusion. Please help me...if the base cabinet in the sink run is 24'', that's 24'' from the wall to the face of the cabinet, right? Add 1-1/2 to that to account for the counter top overhang. If the cabinet depth in the refer run is 24'', that's 24'' (OK, I know I'm not counting door width or refer handles, or door pulls). The island base width is 24'', and by that I mean inclusive of rear panel (we would instruct the cabinet maker to do whater is needed to result in an external max width of 24''). Add 3'' for island overhang both sides. Total width of space = 148''. Subract 24'' for refer cab. Subract 25-1/2'' for sink counter top). Subract 27'' for island counter top. That leaves 71-1/2''. Divide by two (assuming island is centered), and that leaves just under 36'' clearance around island. What am I missing? I did draw up plans that located the refrig to the right of the range, decided we don't want it that close to the DR. We also like the location of the range. The liebherr seems perfect to me because it is the closest thing to a true cabinet depth refrig without spending the $ for a built-in. I like the extra height compared to other cab depth models. Not sure why it would be considered dominant, if height is the only issue, I'm OK with that. Filler on the refer run isn't an issue. The run starts at the back of the family room run and ends wherever it iends (which should be a few inches form the doorway to the DR. Yes, some adjustment might be needed in the range run, but I don't think that affects any of the dimensions I'm questioning, which is primarily island width and clearnaces. Live wire oak, interesting layout suggestion. I thought I tried them all, but not that one. Because I'll probably stick with the island, range will need to stay where it is. Yes, the drawing got stretched horizontally when I loaded it onto Picasa. All dimensions are correct it just looks funny. And yes I know that I can draw to the nearest 1/4'' but I'm not expecting anywhere near that level of accuracy in reality. The GC knows we're shooting for and will build the new wall accordingly. Thanks, I really appreciate your time and comments. Jon...See MoreIsland dimensions and kitchen layout
Comments (7)Actually, now that I look at it, the plan appears to show a counter depth fridge (30"). The fridge we've selected is 35" deep (plus about 2" in rear for water and power connections). This would mean that the distance to the corner of the peninsula would be closer to 30" before shortening the peninsula! With shortening the peninsula just 6", would the 36" be enough room considering that the fridge is not directly across from the peninsula but rather at an angle? eastbaymom - good point about being able to pull the fridge out. I believe we're just doing the standard 1.5" overhang so should still have about 38" between edge of island and fridge, with room to pull out a 35" fridge. Thanks everyone for the advice so far!...See MoreKitchen Island Clearance Dimensions-Continued
Comments (52)@Angela, Yes. If I am correct, you like plan 13H3 better. And you also prefer a microwave over the oven. At this point, I am considering two layouts 13H3 and 18A. Still need to debate the pros and cons of each to see if I can settle on a ‘final’ design. @Lavender Lass, My latest plans (ver17 and ver18) are based on your T-shaped island concept, which has the long side of the island parallel to the right side wall. I am looking at it (18A) along with a previous plan of 13H3. Thank you for your latest two drawings. They are similar to ver13H3 to some degree. I see the main differences being the swapped sink/cooktop, HVAC/pantry locations and larger kitchen window. I would explain my thoughts on them below. @Mrs Pete, Thank you for your continued input. I really appreciate that. You are absolutely right that I am not settled on the kitchen layout yet. There are things that I don’t like or am simply unsure about. On the other hand, I think I am making good progress (from the original two island version) and really hope that either plan might just work OK. Re: HVAC and Cooktop Placement When I met with the architect, he said he preferred to have the HVAC closet in a more centralized location of the house for easier ducting work. I may ask the architect again about this issue but right now I am inclined to leave the HVAC and pantry as they are currently in the plans (pantry close to wall). Similarly, the cooktop close to the top wall may still be doable but that would make the exhaust vent of the range hood more difficult as there is second floor above it (vs cooktop close to side wall ). I am keeping the cooktop / sink locations for now. I would follow up one more time with the architect. Re: Kitchen Windows It is a corner lot with front and west facing streets in the subdivision. The side wall is facing west and we are building in Texas. I don’t think there is any good view to the outside and I have some great concern about summer heat. Therefore, the windows are mainly for natural lighting. The architect proposed to place some small windows over the high cabinets. I really don’t know how that would work and my drawings (with the size and location of the windows) are mainly my best guess. Re: Start over or KD While I am open to the suggestions of starting it over or giving it to a KD, I am not taking that route for reasons including 1) I still like to work with the architect on the overall house design to make it work after I have received some criticisms about the exteriors/roofs and cost. So I am trying to let the floor plan (including kitchen layout) to help the architect a little bit if possible for a functional, pleasing, and cost effective build. 2) The kitchen is one of the most critical parts of the house design but it is still one part of the whole house. If the only thing unresolved is kitchen layout and a KD might be good for me. But I don’t think I am there yet. For some reason, I feel comfortable with floor plans/kitchen layouts reading thanks to many ppl on the GW forums ond my own struggles with the issues for over 5 months. If I decide on a final plan, I think it would not be too bad functionally. Next, I would like to come up with one candidate kitchen plan and integrate it to the whole house floor plans and present it to the architect with my concerns about exteriors and budget. Thanks! JF...See MoreClearance for table/island/doors
Comments (12)A 7 ft table would comfortably seat 3 on each side - you need over 2 ft per person leg space - not table top . Normally you would want 5 ft between 2 seating tops ( ie form the table edge to the island countertop edge ) so if both seat were being used there would still be mobility. You are very close to that. Also the way the space is laid out it would be ok if you were off center of the french doors. If you are very sensitive to that then just make the island 6 " narrower and you should be fine. Looking at the floor plan - there is no reason I can see that would stop you from moving the french doors over a little as well. All of the guessing will change- it is best to wait til the framing goes up so you have more accurate dimensions. Have the designer prepare the finished space how you want it to be and then you can tell the builder where the centerline of the french doors should be. Good luck!...See Moredebrak2008
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