I did this, but I'm not clear on the question. You need to have some space to take a new opening back into like a closet or a utility room and build a new framed recessed nook. The water and power go in the new wall which is recessed. It's not possible to just do this anywhere. You have to have the right conditions. Naturally it doesn't work on an exterior wall because there's nothing to build the recessed nook back into. Not sure if that helps.....

thanks - let me try to clear it up

behind the fridge is half pantry, half one side of plain bathroom wall behind it.

i thought you could just cut out the drywall for the fridge space and leave the walls behind that in tact, creating a nook of like 3" deep or so. i wasnt planning on actually cutting a nook into the pantry/bathroom wall, just removing the drywall on 1 side.

ive seen pics of people that did that on here, but couldnt really see how they put a receptacle into a wall that doesnt have any space now

You can't just cut out the drywall - that's only half inch+ thick- and won't provide more space. I assume you mean to remove the framing studs behind the drywall also and that's a different kettle of fish. You really shouldn't just have unsupported drywall behind the fridge. For starters, the fridge is what- 30+ inches wide? - that will make the drywall weak behind the fridge. Someone could lean on it from the other side and it will just give. It will also transfer more noise from the fridge to the rooms behind and vice versa. More importantly are structural issues. If there's a second story above the kitchen, it could compromise support of the second floor by removing the studs. If there are two rooms behind your fridge, then presumably the wall between the pantry and the bathroom meet behind your fridge - they will need framing support too. And as you say, there is no good way of mounting utilities. Let's put it this way - it wouldn't adhere to any building code I've seen. Are you sure someone here did it the way you describe? I've only seen people do it with a new 2X4 framed recessed wall.

Is this what you mean? (Scroll down to the picture.)

Here is a link that might be useful: 'Frig Recessed into Wall

I've seen this:

Basically you build a doorway wider than the refrigerator between the rooms. On the back side of the doorway you drywall over the opening and on the fridge side you reinforce it with plywood. The outlet is placed to the side of the fridge, either in a conventional surface mounted box (if there is enough extra width) or using a recessed outlet in a box or fully recessed which would have to be planned for in the framing. It gains you a 2-3 inches.

Here is a link that might be useful: Recessed outlet

jabelone: yea i meant cutting the drywall out like 36-37" wide, 70" tall, removing the studs, etc. i figured you could glue a piece of drywall to back of the other wall to double it up/strengthen it. plus like half of that wall would be the side of the pantry which never would get leaned on, and the other half would be the far wall of a 1/2 bath that should never get leaned on either.

i didnt think about the structural issues, i couldnt imagine just removing 1 or 2 studs there and adding a header would cause structure issues for the 2nd floor. assuming its not a load bearing wall (which i dont think it is)

purplepanies: yes, like that image there:
http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/marcy96lin/IMG_0070.jpg

looks liek they just removed the drywall/studs and maybe added an extra piece of drywall to the other side to help strengthen it no?

heres a pic where you can see how it sticks out and why even 3" or so would make a nice difference:

http://gallery.me.com/richardmcinnes#100019/newfridge&bgcolor=black

Looks like there are a few ways to do it after all. Yeah, I was going to mention a header even if it isn't a load bearing wall. Post pictures when you got it figured, for others to reference.

I absoutly understand our desire to recess the frig... I have a Samsung as well but bought the counter depth model
to avoid what you're facing now.

In your panty.. are you sure there is no shelving being supported by the section of wall you are considering? How about the bathroom? Nothing on that wall? You might hit plumbing none the less.

Once you remove the studs the wall wont have any real strength on the opposite side. The maximum you will gain is 3.5 inches.

Removing 36" of wall is going to cause 3 to 4 16" wall sections to lose strength. You will need to reinforce the
edge of the drywall you cut out with at stud on each side
nailed into both (top and bottom) plates and screwed into the drywall on both sides. You'll need to do a bit of spackling on the bathroom/pantry side

Ideally you should build a header with jack and king studs to avoid any structural issues.

If I had to do it in my home and the wall behind wasnt supporting anything.. I would add the header and also reinforce the drywall by gluing 1/2" plywood to the back
side and using a dozen or so small angle brackets to attach the plywood to the studs.

If the wall is load bearing you must do a header.

DIY_Mike

Ricky;

I was the one asking for help a few months ago! Here's a picture of mine, after the cab had been put up around it.

The copper water line goes thru the header at the top of the recess: there is a sheet of plywood, unpainted at that point, in the back. The electrician put a "clock" outlet in the right side of the framing (it isn't in that photo yet -- they did it a day or so after the picture was taken. Ignore the board at the bottom of the cab: that was just to keep the cabinet in place after it was grouted.

Here's what I did to gain 1" +
cut out drywall behind fridge. did not remove any studs.
mounted fridge outlet to side of stud, not to front, and moved as far back as possible, so the front of the outlet is recessed next to the stud and when plugged in the plug is flush with the front of the stud.
Brought up the waterline through the bottom plate (not a loading bearing wall)
This allowed the fridge to be pushed back against the studs. standard 36" wide by 30" deep (plus doors & handles)

Note that the fridge was completely built-in and you need air around the fridge. we actually put a air return vent on the drywall side (open to the basement stairs) to allow airflow & ventilation.

I then pulled the cabinet next to and over the fridge forward to 30" rather than 24" to make the fridge appear built-in without having been recessed into the wall.