Now that I'm back home, I think its a miracle I've never burned myself on that lamp -- but so far, I haven't. The rocker switch is directly in front of the knob that varies fan speed. The right side lamp is about 2" to the right of them. Somehow, just far enough away to miss. As you can see from robj's second photo, there is a small concave capture area underneath the hood where the baffles are canted at an angle. Its adequate. Sure helps to turn the hood on before smoke appears. Depending on your cooktop burner layout (and cook's height), it could help to set this hood forward a couple inches. We have 7" diameter round ducts (I'm sure there's a good reason for this, but no idea what that was). A gradual 90 degree bend to the right, then a straight shot 6 ft. out the wall. Tried running on highest speed with the baffles in and out -- perhaps a tad quieter with baffles removed, but not enough of a difference to notice, I'd say. To whine once more about those lamps: Its a trivial thing, but they symbolize how little pressure Broan must have felt from competing products, to not upgrade those ridiculous lamps to a more usable screw-in style (like a PAR20). This is not so much Broan's fault as a sign of scant incentive to improve products in a backwater industry.

BJ--thank you for those updates. I have to admit I've felt a little blue ever since reading them, though. I'm sorry to have not been here when happyto lost her husband. I remember that he was struggling with his health. And yes, "yummers." I remember your airplanes, too, and Michelle and I had once exchanged Christmas cards before losing touch. I still remember what her family looked like. I hope everything worked out OK for them. Time really flies. I know your heart is breaking over Baby V. I have a good friend who fostered a baby from the time he was just a couple of weeks old until he was 16 months. She was single, so we (her girlfriends) all pitched in and he was almost as much a part of our family as one could ever imagine. She thought she was on a track to adopt him, but in the very week that the parental rights were to be officially terminated (after which my friend could begin the adoption process formally), his grandmother from 800 miles away applied to foster him. (Not adopt him.) I couldn't believe she would leave him in foster care that long and then just pop in at the last possible moment. My friend tried to make an appeal through the court system at the parents' termination hearing, but she was told foster parents don't have any rights in the relationship. She had to just sit silently, and then hand him over at the end. She was the only mom he had known at that point, and it was devastating for all of us. It could only get harder the more time you have with him, I imagine. But knowing he would be going to a loving home where he would be a priority helps so much. Not the same when he's obviously someone's afterthought. That hurts.

Here's the problem (as I see it) when using screws on 2CM stone: The stone is too thin to support the weight of the screw fittings that are imbedded into the stone at least 3/8 of an inch or more. This weakens (structurally) the stone around where the the screw has been drilled, and because you are adding tension (load of the weight of the sink, PLUS the garbage disposal, PLUS the "pull" from the plumbing pipes that are tightened to the sink drain) you are asking for a failure. Yes - you CAN use the screws - But I only would do them using 3CM stone (it's thicker and can disperse the weight & tension load a bit easier) BUT - even then - I'd use some kind of "cradle" that supports the sink from underneath.... A KD that "laughs at the suggestion of an alternate means of installation" is only showing his or her ignorance of newer methods of doing things better. Your Fabricator that told you that you will not be able to change your sink out in the future if you use screws - is IMHO- half right - there is still a chance that you can change out the sink - it'll depend on the sink that you use and the cabinet interior dimensions - allowing you to manipulate the sink in order to remove it and replace it with another - or not..... I really LOVE any kind of "cradle" system that supports the sink - from UNDERNEATH - rather than relying on "hanging it from the underside of the stone - Structurally - the "cradle philosophy" is more sound and will work far better for you that using screw that will "hang" the sink from the stone putting pressure and tension on the stone assembly - eventually leading to a potential fracture scenario.. I've been doing this gig for a LONG time (25+ years) and I get to visit "failure" scenarios all the time - done by guys that didn't know any better, wanted to be "the cheapest guy doing the job" or the KD's that "laughed at their customers and said that no-way would their company would support such an idea" - that is until I write my report - based on MIA specs and reference that HAD a "cradle" type method of support been used - the failure would not have taken place. Then...... the KD isn't laughing any more....... especially when they have to do a "rip out and replace"....... Bottom line - laughing at sound advice can be expensive!!! especially for ignorant KD's just my .02 cents worth...... hth kevin

I would think the carbide would only be necessary if what you were trying to cut was really hard, like approaching the hardness of ceramic tile. A stainless steel sink should still be relatively soft, after all they form it by pressing/drawing it and you can dent it during use. A toothed bi-metal holesaw should cut it. Use a bi-metal saw because the blade will be harder than the cheaper one-piece blades. Hole saws typically use an arbor that chucks into a drill, the arbor also having a center pilot drill to hold the saw in position and to start the cut. You should cut from the back side to avoid damaging the good surface. You might also clamp a block of wood (USE SOFT JAW CLAMPS!!!) to the back side (good side of the sink) where you are drilling to give the drill/saw something to bite into as it comes through the thin metal. Run the saw at a relatively slow speed unless you are familiar with using a hole saw as they can sometimes grab and jump or get away from you. The concern here is if they grab they might warp the edge of the SS hole - not a huge issue as most plumbing trim rings cover a rather wide area.