Minimum size for walk-in pantry
jenswrens
13 years ago
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rhome410
13 years agojenswrens
13 years agoRelated Discussions
Walk in pantry door size
Comments (7)A full sized fridge will need 36" door to be able to install/replace it. I'm surprised GauchoGordo said 28" is fine - my builder refused to make my 36" wide pantry any deeper than 24" b/c he said the 30" door wasn't wide enough. Though he put in a 36" x 37" linen closet with a 24" door at the end of my tub! And would have made the 24" wide linen closet in the hallway that deep too if I hadn't insisted that he use the space between that and the tub/shower in the hall bath for a hamper alcove. The pantry backs up to a 54"x37" coat closet - so should I make the pantry a foot deeper, take the space out of the coat closet (that's so deep I store my vacuum in there, in front of the coats)? Might have to move the coat closet door a couple of inches to get the full foot though. Other than redoing the tile floors (which need to be re-set anyway, long story) in the 2 closets, I think it's a pretty simple matter of taking out the drywall, 1 stud, moving that stud a foot, and 1 sheet (4x8) of new drywall? Is it worth it to gain a foot in depth in the pantry? I hate the 16" deep wire shelves in there (and the linen closets) now, was thinking that a 3ft deep pantry would allow me to put 18" deep wooden shelves along the back, 3ft width would allow for 8" deep x 18" long wooden shelves (for small cans/jars) along each side, or maybe 12"x 18" shelves on the hinge side and nothing on the other (except maybe griddle in box, large cooling rack I have shoved into the middle under the shelves now - rack can even be hung on the wall)? Be easier to get at smaller items with shallow shelving to the side, rather than digging things out from deeper shelves?...See Moreminimum width for pantry?
Comments (14)Flyleft, My kitchen was designed by a guy (not a male designer, but a guy). The pantry is just the space between the laundry, which was sectioned off of the kitchen and the dining room door, about 57"x64", with deep, overlapping, spaced apart shelves on three sides. As I said, ill designed. Anything would be an improvement! The reason for tearing it out, actually, is that the passage between the kitchen and dining room is about 38"x72" (the narrow way). If I wasn't trying to get more space there and a staging area for serving, I'd just rip out the shelves and refit it. Probably drawers down and adjustable, open shelves up with a landing area. With a lot more levels than I currently have. My pantry has loads of wasted air space -- the jars can't be stacked (and I'm not going to box them to stack them). The pots are so stacked that I have a big mess if I want to use one. So the answer to your question is, if you're designing a space specifically for pots, jars, etc., make it fit them. Not a real "ahah' moment, but there you have it. I like Raehelen's idea of narrower shelves on one side for food and paper goods. If you're keeping the closet you have things crammed in, take a look and see if you can refit it (shelves, drawers, peg board, risers, etc.) in a way that makes better sense of it. I've found that what looks expensive for a weekend project disappears in a kitchen budget. :) JC...See MoreConverting dining room to walk-in pantry & butler's pantry
Comments (50)I am just now reading all these amazing comments. We were going to sell our 5 bedroom house and build a “smaller” 2B2B barndominium, but plans changed due to my dad getting sick and not wanting us to move away from me. So we have decided to renovate what we have and incorporate the things I wanted into this house but I have no clue where to start. This house had NO storage. We have extra rooms I want to make one a butlers pantry that connects to my kitchen and the other I want to make a master closet. Any ideas would be appreciated...See MoreMinimum width for a pantry door?
Comments (19)Get a quality door, dont cheap out.i have 8 foot solid core pocket doors. They are incredibly smooth when opening/closing and the way that they are attached to the rail, they no longer derail. I checked out the mechanisms while my home was being built and i am confident they will operate as intended for many years.....See Morelisa_a
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