If you are going prefabricated granite, you could probably get matching granite tiles. That would look more homogeneous than mixing surfaces.

I really love laminate and have had it in every place I've ever lived. My last house had a detailed oak trim and it was pretty rough looking on the island and in front of the sink where gunk would get stuck in the crevices. I would just wipe it with a rag and sanded it in a place where the previous owner had gouged and split the piece. Actually I guess with that abuse it held up pretty well. I didn't really like the way it looked though, but if I did like it I would get it again because if I would have taken care of it at all I'm sure it would have looked great. I will probably DIY laminate tops in our next house because well I just can't bring myself to spend a ton of money on stone. I will most likely get a black top and just take a good ole magic marker to that brown seam on the edge.

I don't know how handy you are or what the current status of your countertop is, but it does sound like you're thinking about installing a Formica countertop and would like something nice to edge it. It that is the way of it, the solution is really rather simple. I won't tell you about the steps for installing the Formica itself, as I will assume that you already have that knowledge, except to say that it is really not as difficult as it seems to be from the outside looking in. It is one of the easier things I have learned in woodworking, to be honest about it. The way to get a nice edge treatment is to apply it to the countertop substrate before you glue down the Formica. I would choose a wood that matched my cabinets. If you have, say, ¾" particleboard for a substrate, you simply glue the wood of your choice to the outside edges of your substrate. Typically, that wood should be 1½" wide, thereby giving the illusion of a countertop that thick. You can miter the corners, but I have found that what works better and easier is to use wood that is 1" thick, as opposed to the usual ¾". You can then simply use butt joints for the edges of your wood trim. I do it in such a way that the joint is NOT on the side that will face out when the counter is installed. Make your joints on the sides. Next, I would make a template that has a 1" radius for a corner and put rounded corners on all of the corners that will face out. Obviously, where it butts to the wall, you want it to stay as straight corners. The easier way to round those corners, once you have the template, is to clamp the template in place, use a hand saw to cut across the corner to remove most of the waste, then finish up with a straight trim bit in a router. At this point you can install your Formica. Once you have finished installing the Formica, you can then put a nice profile on the countertop, making sure to cut through the Formica just a little. What works particularly well in that regard is to use a roundover bit and cut it deeply enough that it creates a shoulder. The Formica is then on a "shelf," so to speak, just above where the round starts for the profile on the edge. The other bit I like for this purpose is a simple 60º bevel bit. On this one, you simply cut through until you are happy with the resulting profile. After that, you would finish the wood the same as you would the wood in your cabinets. It is really not that difficult to do, and as I say, it makes a truly dramatic edge treatment for a Formica countertop. It makes it look like the countertop is solid whatever wood you choose for your edging, and it finishes the edge wonderfully. Here is a link that might be useful: Cabinet & Furniture Trends & Information

Butcherblock island with waterfall edge I have questions/second thoughts on what seemed a straightforward build. I don't want to rush small details that could tend to have consequences over time. I'm building and island with a 1.5"x72" edge grain, laminate Acacia countertop with waterfall edges. I plan on sealing with mineral oil. Here is a mix of what I read/learned and my further questioning. Thanks to you if you take time to answer any point 1. It's common knowledge that wood needs to expand and breathe. That being said, edge grain laminate wood countertop should only expand on it's width. Should I use expansion holes with a fender washer or just slotted L brackets to attach my countertop to my cabinets ? Are they both as good in my situation ? 2. Since wood needs to breathe, it's said that it shouldn't be installed directly over other materials, there should be an "air gap". That is easy with the countertop since the top of the cabinets are open, but how should I design the waterfall sides with an air gap ? 3. What is the best way to attach waterfall edges ? Should the waterfall edges rest on the floor or be given some space off the floor like they were floating ? 4. There will be a dishwasher in the island, should I install a vapor block of some kind, completely seal it or just use mineral oil like on the top ? 5. This is more of a design question : My countertops are 6" wider than what I need (included usual overhang), is it enough for a "bar" overhang or should I just cut it down ?