I know this sounds crazy... and I really don't know what I'm talking about; but... if you took 2x2 tiles and laid them on a diagonal in 8" lengths and then changed directions; couldn't you create the same pattern without so many cuts? It might even look cool if you alternated matte and gloss. Here's a pic of a floor in two different colors (albeit much larger tile) to show you what I mean. Sorry, if I"m totally off base. It's just an idea I had. Scroll down to the 5th picture.

Here is a link that might be useful: crazy idea

remodelfla -
Thanks so much for your idea, and you're not off base at all! Ultimately, I don't think it'll work for our backsplash since that pattern really relies on those 2 colors to give it the right shape, and I think the resulting "stripes", even in subtle colors, would overwhelm our small kitchen. But, honestly, I've been poring over pattern options obsessively for days now, and your solution never even crossed my mind, so I really do appreciate it!

I know I could avoid almost all cuts if I just went with a rectangle plus 2 triangles on either end, like this -
{{!gwi}}
but it's a more disjointed, less sleek look, although it's probably what I'll end up doing if I get a ton of feedback scaring me away from cutting my pretty parallelograms. Either that or I'll do the standard zigzag herringbone - But right now I can't get those fitted chevrons out of my mind!

BTW, I forgot to mention in my OP that I know the tile in that fireplace photo was custom cut by the installers.

Here's another idea then... might you be able to get a tile place to make the cuts for you and then you install? The cost may not be that much greater then purchasing the correct tools.

You can buy a decent tile saw for $65 at HD or Lowes. I did and had fun with our last house back splash and tub surround. I cut the corners off most of the 4" tiles to add a 2" I plan on doing something different with this new kitchen also.

remodelfla - That's a great suggestion, which I hadn't given enough thought to either. I did look into getting a custom size/shape from a local tile manufacturer (astronomical, it turns out!), but I'll ask some tile installers what they might charge for just doing the cuts.
Bill Vincent, if you're reading this, is that something tile pros are willing to do?

Larrylwill - Thanks! You're giving me hope!

I won't say you're nuts, maybe too ambitious. That looks like that could be quite a challenge even for an experienced tile person. Good luck, but be prepared for yours not to look as good as that one on that fireplace. Remember, you'll be reaching over cabinets to position the tile which will make the job even more difficult. If you can keep a perfectly level line then you might be OK. Good luck. Look forward to seeing what you decide to do.

Well, if I were you, I'd try it! While it could be tricky, the nice thing is that all of those cuts are the same, so with a semi-quality saw, once you had the saw set up right, it seems like it would be tedious to cut so many tiles, but not exactly difficult. It would prolly be worth the time to rig up something other than the guides that a regular tile saw comes with - a custom jig of sorts. It seems like the harder parts will be allignment, and then having to make cut-outs for outlets, etc, in tiles that are already a "weird" shape. Buy a few extra tiles, and go for it! I cannot wait to see!

addendum: Please understand that this enthusiastic vote of confidence comes from someone who has only tiled once, but loves a challenge. I hope that Bill gives you a "real" opinion. But I'll be your cheerleader!

I like your first photos better: I've seen that called a 'feather' pattern, and it's elegant and unique. The second is busy, but not as appealing to me as a simple herringbone [but I'm a big fan of herringbone, so saying I like it less isn't exactly a put down].

I think your original is quite do-able, because the only cut you need is a 45 degree angle, and most tile saws have a 45 'built in', so to speak: if the holder/pusher can accomodate the tile at a diagonal to the blade, so that the blade passes through from corner to corner, it will do this angle, whether you are using a saw where the blade moves and the tile stays; or the other way round.

You can mark the tile with a speed square and sharpie. But even semi-decent tile saws spray water on the tile as you cut, which may wash away your mark just when you need it most. Try a crayon: the mark isn't as distinct, but lasts longer when the spray starts. Works well on tile with a bit of tooth, not at all on very smooth tiles.

And remember: you can always re-cut if you do a tile too long, but too short is forever.

Best of Luck!

I bought a tile saw at HD that included a guide for miter cuts for $99. It might take a while to make that many cuts but if that's the pattern you want, I think it'd be worth it to spend the extra time. I really like your chevron pattern, so if it were me, I'd give it a try.

I did my own tile cutting for my backsplash. I do stained glass so have some experience with the technique but it's really not that difficult to do.

The tile saw gives you a good cut and is necessary for curved edges but there's a way to do straight cuts without it.

All you need is a glass cutter and a pencil. Mark the line with a Sharpie and go over it ONCE with the wheel of the glass cutter held at a 90 degree angle. Position the pencil directly under the scribed line and press on the tile on either side of line. The tile will break along the line.

I'd try it. Make sure all your tiles are cut and the pattern laid out on the counter below the area you plan to cover. Start in an inconspicuous area. Make sure your guide line is level and go for it.

If you hate it you can change it.

You don't "need" a wet tile cutter but it certainly makes the process go much faster. What dian57 describes will work, but I would only use that technique if you only have a few cuts. For as many cuts as you are contemplating, I would recommend you rent a high quality tile saw as opposed to buying one of the cheaper ones. At my local home depot you can rent one of the high end models for a full week for about $150. Having used both the rental and my own cheap $99 saw ... there is a big difference.

I agree completely with etznab. The better tile saws are a dream to work with and can make the project go much more smoothly. One thing I've seen done is to make a guide out of wood that would hold each tile at the exact angle. This would really speed up the cutting because there would be less thinking to do.

My main complaint with tile that has been scored and snapped is that the edges tend to be rough, so when yhou are trying to align them, you will have to work extra hard on each one to make sure they look good. I don't like to work extra hard if I don't have to.

BTW, I love the design and agree a lot would be lost if you worked with rectangular tiles. I think I saw something at AKDO's showroom like that, so you may want to check their website, however they are very expensive.

I say go for it!

Thanks so much, everyone. This is all extremely helpful advice - you're reconfirming my plan, but giving me a much better sense of what I'm in for. ;)

For my purposes (repetitive diagonal cuts on on smallish, narrow tiles), do I want a tile saw, or manual cutter? I'm willing to invest up to $250 or so, to buy or rent what I'll need, but even looking around on the John Bridge site I haven't found a clear answer.

And, in your experience(s), once I got into the swing of things, how long would it take to make, say, 20 cuts?

Thanks again!

That's a gorgeous tile pattern, and I can see why you love it -- I love it too. But I'd say your success depends on the tile.

Why? - That is a LOT of cuts, and the cut ends will be the focal point of the installation, so any imperfections will be very visible. A glazed tile often shows tiny chips or roughness on the cut edges; and the cut edges are usually flat and the formed edges taper back slightly. So it's usually pretty easy to spot a cut tile even when it's done well.

You might get a better result in a natural stone with a honed finish, though most have a tiny bevel on the edges that again, would be hard to duplicate. Or a rectified (square-edged) tile, though I can't recall seeing any that are long and skinny.

A herringbone or fishbone pattern is very similar, and you'd be much more likely to get a professional-quality result.

I think you might do well to ask this over on the John Bridge forum, where all the tile experts hang out. They can definitely let you know re. the cut edge issue Sweeby points out. That would be my only caveat as well - if you're up to making a zillion cuts, and the cut edges won't ruin the look, why not try it? A backsplash is not a super difficult prep job, and you can just be very careful with the alignment of the pattern. Good luck and enjoy.

Here is a link that might be useful: John Bridge tile advice forum

Oh gosh, Sweeby, you've articulated my fears perfectly. This is DH's main objection too. I so want to take this on, but not if the end result will look glaringly unprofessional.

Our kitchen doesn't get a lot of direct sunlight, so I was hoping to use a fairly reflective material for the backsplash. (This is a little OT, but I am sort of surprised that I haven't come across any field tile in the right shape. I see rhomboid shapes, like diamonds, of course, but nothing that's elongated in the way I'd need. Maybe I'm searching using imprecise words. Anyone have suggestions for other ways to describe/search for what I'm talking about here?)

Oh, this is frustrating - I feel like stamping my feet and throwing a little kitchen reno tantrum!
(above sentence should be "whine inflected"...)

You don't "need" a wet tile cutter but it certainly makes the process go much faster.

With those mitered cuts, where they'll be butting up to each other, and out in the field of the tile, wet saw will be the ONLY way to cut that tile. Otherwise you WILL end up with rough cuts.

As for whether you're crazy for trying this or not, think about this-- there's a younbg lady who alot of the "old timers" in here know as Pirula (Ivette). She and her husband put their own master bathroom together, including a Kerdi steam shower. it comes down to one of my favorite cliches--

"Whether you think you can, or you think you can't, you're probably right."

It's mainly a matter of confidence. I can help you through it, and so can the other pros over at John's forum. It's up to you. From what I've seen so far, it looks like you've got a pretty good jump on it, though!

Bill V - many thanks for chiming in.
I think I've recaptured my ambitious spirit!

I'm in Portland, OR, and have been hoarding tile from the "free box" (gotta love the free box!!) at the Pratt & Larson seconds store in order to play around with different sizes and patterns. So, today I cornered one of the warehouse guys and got him to demonstrate diagonal cuts on different types of tile using their power tile saw. I was pleasantly surprised at how cleanly he was able to make the cuts, even on glossy tiles. He was very encouraging, so I think I'm back in the game.
DH still thinks I'm crazy, but this is from a man who dug out our basement entirely by hand - bucketful by bucketful - so he may not be the best judge of sanity... :-)

Oh yeah: I'd use a solid body porcelain with plain, not chiseled or beveled edges. The glaze will chip off a glazed tile, and stone doesn't cut as smoothly-- the edges generally want polishing.

Not with a wet saw and a good blade, it won't.