Does a semi-custom 9.5 inch pullout pantry exist?
susanne283
10 years ago
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calumin
10 years agojakuvall
10 years agoRelated Discussions
Kitchen, Pantry, Powder room layout help
Comments (46)Oh, this! ^^^^^^ That looks lovely. I don't think it needs to be centered. That looks great. As an alternative, you could build a hood that covers that entire short wall and then just place the working parts (fan, ducts) over the range. That may look better or worse but something you might play with. A lot of the kitchens revealed here have lack of symmetry because they achieve better function without it. Or they find a creative way to balance the lack of symmetry as you have with your utensil crock. A tall, narrow painting would look good there as well if you decide to go with a simpler backsplash although that might be too-too much on the wall if you go with a decorative tile-insert. I'm a window person. Even if the view is questionable, I'd go for bigger windows. The more natural light, the better, imho. Maybe install some kind of trellis to hide the hot-tubbers? For the first time in my life, I have no uppers and my seasonings/oils/sauces are in drawers next to my range. I just bought a couple of cheap spice inserts at the hardware store and a few cheap drawer organizers (plastic boxes) at The Dollar Store. Oh, I love it so much. I can open the drawers and find everything I need at a glance rather than digging through the upper cabinet. As I said, my fridge placement doesn't bother me either due to the pit-stop at the prep area. I hope you find the same with your mock cooking sessions. I like this plan so much better than how it originally started. I hope you feel good about what you've achieved....See MoreAdding pullout drawers to existing kitchen cabinets
Comments (36)Well, I finally got this thing done! I appreciated everyone's ideas. I knew that putting spices in the pullouts just would not work with all the other stuff that I had to get into the pullouts. I had still intended to use the pulldown spice rack in one of the pullouts, but alas, with the side rails taking up space, the pullout was just a 1/2" too narrow. So, I went with about Plan Q and managed to move enough things to the top two pullouts to make room for the door-mounted spice racks in two top cabinets. In all, we put in four pullouts (one more below the bottom one shown in the photo below) and moved around the door-mounted spice racks. I still miss my old (small) walk-in pantry, but this seems to be workable now....See Morebathroom vanity with pullouts on both sides?
Comments (32)Try Barker cabinets they can reasonably build anything you want. To save money have them build it in a size where a prefabbed vanity top will fit. By the way you can convert any door into a pull out as you have pictured. The hinges are removed and the door is mounted onto the pullout. Obvious forethought and ordering it with this in mind will result in a better end product. Barker can build anything you want. The pullouts add up as they are about $250 each. By the way the best thing for a bad spine is to actually bend and flex it daily. Its lifting heavy weight that would cause a problem. Drawers will function exactly as a pull out will as the pullout will have different height shelfs just like the drawers could be stacked requiring the same bending to get to the lowest one....See MoreSemi-Custom Floor Plan Review for Disabled Veteran
Comments (23)I am a CAPS Designer, and I have some concerns about your home plan. The first concern is translating a stock plan to a non stock site. The approach to the home, both the front door and the garage entrance, need to be assessed for elevation changes. That is a BIG issue when a home is not designed for the site on which it is built. This is where your architect or home designer needs the site plan showing the elevation changes, and then shows you how that will be handled regarding entry into the home. Ramps take up a lot of space because of the required rise and run. 1” per 1’. If there is 14” of elevation difference between your garage floor and interior surface, that needs a 17’x 9’ section just by itself, for the needed ramps, switchback platforms, and landings. That takes up an entire garage bay, and that is if it’s a traditional two steps into the home. There are platform lifts that take up less space, but they also need to be space planned into the home’s electrical etc. Getting into your own home, out of the weather, and with zero to minimal assistance is what creating a home that fosters independent living is all about. Your home should also accommodate visits from any friends and family who may also have mobility issues that could be more restrictive. That means assessing the front entrance as well. For the master bath, tall vanities are contra indicated. You need one at which you can be seated, with knee space, and scald protection. Since you are not seated full time, a split vanity with a taller one for your standing height, and the shorter one for a seated position are probably your best bet for varied abilities. The current plan with the toilet area has no room for a caregiver to assist. The shower is less than ideal as well. The entire master needs to be reworked. Definitely plan for a bidet toilet seat, plus room for an aide if needed. That clearance can overlap your shower area, and the clearance to turn with a chair as well. Combining needed clearances is how to keep the bath from becoming overly large, and still appear spacious and comfortable. Your closet should utilize the pull down double hung hardware available from many sources. I like Hafele. You need the 5x5 turning space in the middle as well, and a proper tall height mirror for seeing yourself standing and seated. Plan for blocking in all of your walls now, for potential grab bars if they are needed at a later time. Wet areas should have them now. They need not be unattractive and institutional. Many are available that look like towel bars and serve as that function. I’ve used them on ends of islands for those who may be just a bit unsteady, and they make great spots for kitchen towels. There are many ways to plan an accessible kitchen, depending on how you use your kitchen. If you cook, rather than your caregiver cooking, there are significant changes that need to be made to accommodate that activity, and I’d be happy to gone to more detail if you need. If you do not cook, and don’t plan to try, then a few smaller changes will allow you to be comfortably in the kitchen with the cook and your family. Widening the hallways has the unfortunate ramifications of taking space away from the already small rooms. I would suggest using the second floor space for the caretaker, as that would be much more private for them, and allow for better space distribution of the downstairs space to family space only. You could have less cramped rooms, and a better plan for everyone. I also have concerns about the designer that you are working with, and the obvious lack of experience in creating accessible space. I would suggest that they obtain the free Home Fit Guides packet from the AARP, as it is one of the best free resources on the market about creating an accessible home. https://www.aarp.org/livable-communities/info-2014/home-fit-resources-worksheets.html I’m concerned that your project may be moving faster than your design. That is a precarious and expensive issue, because it results in change orders. I’d suggest that you involve better and more local assets in the design process. There should be CAPS individuals there, and your Occupational Therapist should absolutely be on your design team. Good luck, and thank you for your service. Slow down to go fast. Get it right the first time....See Morerobbcs3
10 years agoscrappy25
10 years agoValerie Noronha
10 years ago
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