I have Reward Costa Testa.It immediately began cupping all over my house and replacing it would be a nightmare because we would have to basucally move out. It can’t be sanded enough to remove the cupped edges and it‘s a toxic process to stain and finish it with the UV finish so we are stuck. Very very, unhappy. I’ve now got flooring guys telling me that the 4mm wear layer is thin…made a huge mistake choosing this product. Also, it looks nothing like the sample on the website. Theres a ton of very white areas which also were not represented on the sample boards i borrowed.

I have Crystal and they look nice, but I would absolutely not pay retail for them. I was able to buy them for a little above cost from my lumber yard. They gave me the catalog that showed their list prices and they are beyond ridiculous. the markup is almost laughable. I just don't feel they are worth anymore than I paid for them. I don't know anything about the other cabinets you mentioned so it would be impossible for me to know how Crystal compares.

I agree that solid wood or furniture grade 3/4" plywood will last a long time - my current galley kitchen is original - all solid 3/4" wood - literally solid as a ROCK (been through Hell and still in great condition). I am actually planning to reuse many of the cabinets in the new kitchen island - I'm just going to get new drawer boxes and new drawer fronts. I can't use the existing small wall cabinets because they are all different sizes - custom built to the original layout, I guess. But the one 6 ft. long wall cabinet will be used as the base for the bartop on the island. That is why I just cannot stomach any of the "semi-custom" stuff on the market - even though the layout of my kitchen sucks, the quality just cannot be beat. Metal vs. wood - yes, the problem with the metal is that it CANNOT be changed to fit - that is why I have not been able to fit the vintage cabinets into my space. Even if I was a welder I wouldn't do it. My current cabinets have the classic 1950's rounded edge 1/2 overlay plywood doors with a lip (routed partially inset into face-frame, partially on top of face-frame). This is not financially feasible to replicate (with half-in / half-out lip), but it (ironically) is the look I'm going for in the new space. I'm probably going to get solid paint grade maple doors with a rounded edge (full-overlay to match the existing reveal). It costs more than poplar, but poplar is too soft - you can nick it with your fingernail. I plan to paint them myself with Fine Paints of Europe's Hollandlac High Gloss. The finish is usually the most expensive part of cabinetry, so even with the best paint by doing it myself I'll save a lot of money. I do need one custom free-standing floor-to-ceiling cabinet to hide an annoying screw-up by the framers (the LVL header sticks out beyond the wall by 1-1/2" because it has to be firred out to cover the bolts that sandwich the steel in the header) and I was considering finding a local cabinet maker to build that. That needs to be narrow (15" deep), but still enough to have 12" deep dish drawers. I've designed and re-designed my new kitchen so many times over the past few years, literally to the inch (small space), and I'm obsessed with FUNCTION over form. I only need one wall of base cabs because the other wall is all appliances except for some short wall cabs above. I only need three base cabs along the wall (42" blind corner, 18" 3-4 drawer base, and 36" sink base. The other space is for a vintage Chambers Range and a dishwasher. That is why I think it may be worth going for new St. Charles. I have only found ONE vintage St. Charles blind corner that faces the correct direction for my space, but it's all the way in Michigan and needs to be repainted, so by the time I pay for the cabinet, have it shipped and then have it professionally powdercoated it will probably cost almost as much as new. The only thing I don't like about the new St. Charles is the hardware - too contemporary. So I have to find out if I can order it without and use vintage or reproductions instead. Rejuventation has the perfect knobs for $8 each. http://www.rejuvenation.com/fixshow100215/templates/selection.phtml

I am not saying that this is what's right for your kitchen nor am I trying to push Ikea at all here (although I admit I am a "fan"). Just want to offer some pics and another, somewhat different perspective on Rubrik. You may like it or hate it. What I can say is, if nothing else, Rubrik is extremely DURABLE. My 24 hr veterinary emergency clinic has Rubrik cabs throughout the whole hospital - exam rooms, lab, treatment, surgery prep, ICU, radiology, isolation, wards, reception. We had them installed almost 7 years ago. These cabs are used a bajillion times a day, 24 hrs a day, 7 days a week, usually not gently, by dozens of different staff members - none of whom would ever stop to think once about worrying over a scratch or ding or whatever. Instruments get dropped, blood/chemicals/feces/urine gets spattered around, seizuring patients with exposed nails/teeth bang into, unruly dogs with nails jump up - you get the picture. The Ikea cabinets themselves function like they are brand new. The Rubrik fronts are easy to clean, and honestly IDK if they're scratched or dented b/c I've never stopped to look. But as a TKO person, you'd think I would've noticed if it were really bad (yes, I would've). I'll remember to look more closely tonight and report back. Anyway, FWIW, here are a few pics taken just a few months ago for another ikeafan. IMHO, they look pretty darn good for the abuse they receive.