It does not look strange to have door hardware that matches the rest of the house and chrome fixtures inside the bathroom. That's one way to do it. Another way is to get split finish door hardware which would be the ORB on the outside and chrome on the bathroom side of the door, which you would see, really, only when the door is closed. Personally I prefer Archer but Forte is very similar. I think the Archer would look fine in the first floor bath too, if you don't want to spend on the Memoir. There's something about the Dryden that I don't quite like, too. I've looked at it myself. What about Kohler Kelston with the Rohl Verona?

Funcolors, Thank you so much for your insights on the color selections! It is a relief to hear that the wall colors of SW Nantucket Dune and SW Maison Blanche are OK. We are following your suggestions to do a SW Creamy ceiling instead of the SW Restful White. The two are very similar and restful white looks whiter than creamy to me. But my wife said she does not like a yellowish ceiling. We still have time for the interior trims/doors but we are seriously considering pure white you suggested. We examined dover white, aesthetic white before. Still need to figure out the 2 kids bedroom and the baby room. As we just let the kids pick their room colors by themselves and I do not think they have a lot of clues there, we need to step in to give them some help by revisting their decisions. Personally I do not like the ibis white. We would look at the Blue Drizzle SW1487 for my daugther's room. I am starting to get why semi-gloss over orange peel would not work. It would expose all the imperfections in the random texture itself. Am I right? Both the painter and the salesperson are getting me into oil for interior trims. Now I am not sure. Oil is harder to do but more durable; Becomes yellowshish and harder to touch up? I have seen a lot of good reviews about superpaint but we may need to use some of the ceiling paint just to save cost. I do insists primer plus two topcoats for both wall and ceilings. The painter and builder was still talking about two coats without primer for ceilings. I ready for the upcharge there. There is a lot of information that we need to digest and but we do we need to make decisions pretty quick. Sweet-tea: Thank you for you comments and that frees me from some of the worries about our wall color selections. I would look into your blue colors for the three kids/baby bedrooms. Gagesgranny, It says light grayish orange on some online color description. I do not know how to describe it even after I did some test painting on the walls. Thanks again!

They sell a 10-piece filter assortment with most of the available filters, so you can experiment with what works best. You start with a reflector bulb with a 10 degree beam spread in your choice of color temperatures - 2700K (warm, like incandescent), 3000K (a bit whiter, like halogen), 4000K (cool white fluorescent tubes, but with better color rendering), or 5000K (cool, matches daylight streaming through windows). The filters can widen the beam spread, which starts out as a narrow spotlight, to a wide spot, narrow flood, or wide flood. There are four sizes and shapes of the squared or rectangular beam shapers. And finally three filters that will "warm" the light, so if you ordered the 4000K bulbs, you could change it to 3500K, 3000K, or 2700K. Doing this slightly reduces the efficiency, so I'd get the lowest color temperature bulb you'll ordinarily use (and they're very efficient - each bulb uses only 7-1/2 watts, but is as bright as a 50 watt halogen bulb). You also have a choice between 12V low-voltage or 120V line voltage (or 230V in most non-US countries). Using low voltage helped make the old halogen bulbs whiter, but I don't see any advantage to using 12V low voltage for LEDs unless you are converting an existing halogen MR16 setup. If you're installing new lamps, using 120V line voltage (GU10) will save lots of money by not requiring transformers or expensive low-voltage dimmers, and will be less prone to buzzing. They also have two series of bulbs called Vivid VP3 and Brilliant. You want the Vivid/VP3 which has better color rendering (95 CRI in lighting parlance rather than 80), meaning you won't get dull or inaccurate colors like you do with fluorescent/CFL bulbs or lower-quality LEDs. Filter 10-pack includes: 25ð Beam Spreader 36ð Beam Spreader 60ð Beam Spreader 10ð x 25ð Linear Lens beam shaper 10ð x 36ð Linear Lens beam shaper 25ð x 25ð Flat Top beam shaper 36ð x 36ð Flat Top beam shaper 1/4 CTO Color Temperature Shifter 1/2 CTO Color Temperature Shifter 3/4 CTO Color Temperature Shifter 40ð beam spreader with glare-free louvers sold separately More links: Filters 120v line voltage bulb detailed info 12v low-voltage bulb detailed info Info about color rendering Info about non-yellowish white rendering Those last two links aren't technobabble by the way; this company was founded by a guy that won a Nobel Prize for inventing the blue and white LEDs that made LED lighting possible.

Thanks for the responses. Yes, they must be xenon and they do get very hot. I had the chocolate on a protein bar melt inside the cabinet. We leave them on all the time so it was definitely a poor choice. They were installed about 10 years ago. I'm off to the lighting store to try and figure out the best way to fix this. We've hired a company who just does this and they removed all the doors Friday and came today to start prepping the inside. I've asked them for a couple large size samples. They do use special paint and I am assuming the colors are their version of comparable colors.The one that seems to go best is the Chantilly lace and I have read that it kind pick up certain undertones and I just can't see it in the small sample, even sea salt doesn't seem to show the undertones I know exist.