Blum Tandem Plus vs. Tandembox
breezygirl
12 years ago
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Comments (14)
davidro1
12 years agobreezygirl
12 years agoRelated Discussions
Does anyone have Blum metabox drawers?
Comments (10)Yes, I believe we have them in our cabinets. They have 5/8" maple plywood bottoms with solid cherry fronts. The metal is in the framework and the sides, finished in a very attractive stainless matte brushed stainless steel. The advantage of these drawers is that they can hold up to 100 pounds each. We have all deep drawers in our base cabinets, and store all of our pots/pans and dishes in them. The few upper cabinets we have only hold glasses. For me, it was well worth the small upgrade charge....See MoreEverything I Wanted to Know About Drawers...
Comments (60)Well, I meant the specific cabinet maker's standard cabinets I was looking at...not in general. I was pricing at their site, and they were transparent about everything else. but they just gave "3 drawer cabinet" no info on drawer size. I went to another site and saw the same thing (which started my journey to here lol). They just need to be upfront and clear about everything. I do not mind paying more for something I want or a better quality. On the other hand, if I was looking just to cheaply do something, I wouldn't worry about the size of drawers or whether it was mdf or not-it would just be about the bottom line only. The people who wouldn't mind paying more are the ones they really need to target. Since the price can vary so much, from a few thousand to tens of thousands, I would assume shoppers would like to have a better estimate-not just "anywhere from 2k to 200k depending on what you want and room size"... I want an estimate within hundreds or 1k at most. I don't look at expensive sports cars, because I know I cannot afford them. I will look at different models in my price range. Then if I see something that is just what I want, I will sacrifice to get it, even if it's a little more than I originally wanted to pay. If money was not an obstacle, or I had to have one at whatever cost (even if I needed to get a loan), then I just stroll into any dealer's business. Basically, what I'm trying to say is that they will get more business if they are transparent with it all. Give all dimensions, price, and materials in a clear, user-friendly website for their basic lines. Get shoppers to see that they can afford it and get what they want. Then be available to talk with them when they're ready to finalize things. Then the salesmen can point out any problems and offer solutions. They could also use this opportunity to then point out how little extra it would be upgrade this or that. I do about 90% of my shopping or preliminary price-checking online. They're loosing business by not bringing in customers thru their website....in my opinion anyway......See MoreBlum drawer glides just installed--hate them!!
Comments (46)This thread is old, but I found it when googling custom cabinet BLUM drawer. FYI for anyone else wondering about this: All Blum Glides are ORANGE - it is actually the lock that is orange, not the glide itself. You CANNOT just install Blumotion bottom-mount soft-close glides onto any drawer box - the bottom / back of the box must be CUSTOM notched to fit the glide! EVERY SINGLE variety of glide on the market requires DIFFERENT notches to fit the glide! This includes different styles of Blum as well as the cheaper (of which that green glide is one) glides. Custom wood drawer boxes notched for Blum soft-close undermount Blumotion glides will cost AT LEAST $100 a piece - and that is for small, shallow drawers! The glides themselves are not very expensive, but unless you have a well-equipped woodwork shop do not even bother trying to DIY these! If you do decide to get custom Blum drawers, make sure the cabinet maker NORMALLY uses BLUM, and preferably ONLY Blum! I'm just trying to find 12" deep Blum drawers made of solid wood with 1/2" thick bottoms for a shallow dish cabinet, and having trouble finding 3 drawers for less than $400 - and I'll be building the actual cabinet to fit them! I'm almost considering buying Ikea, using the drawer as a template, ripping out the glides and making my own out of wood. For some reason the Ikea entire cabinet is less than just a drawer!...See MoreAre IKEA cabs wood or other?
Comments (32)>>A local "green" cabinet builder cites: "particleboard will deteriorate when exposed to water, it is more susceptible we use to dents and tends to sag when carrying weight long-term. As a result, she says, cabinets made with particleboard won't hold up as well to the wear-and-tear commonly experienced by kitchen cabinetry, and may have to be replaced sooner". I beg to differ with this statement. As I and others have pointed out before, it is the QUALITY of each and every material used in cabinet construction (or any carpentry) that matters. No manufacturer I know of uses particleboard for kitchen cabinets without applying a veneer of some sort. It may be wood, or laminate, or melamine - and what matters is the quality level of that veneer. Not all veneers are the same in quality and durability, any more than flooring materials are, or even plywood for that matter. I have Kraftmaid frameless cabs bought in 1989 and thoroughly and totally tested in a hard-usage environment - I love to cook and I don't baby anything I own. I bang pots around, slam and lean on cab doors with all my 200-plus pounds...basically giving them no mercy. I adore these cabs, with high-density particleboard cores, laminate exterior and high-quality melamine interior. I put dishes away soaking wet without a qualm. Everything cleans with a green scrubbie and a spritz of Windex. We had a six month-long slow leak in the sink cab and there was no substrate damage at all, just a very slight bubble to the melamine interior. One of my Lazy Susan base cabs had a loosening hinge on the bi-fold door. I'd always thought particleboard couldn't be redrilled - wrong! My handyman filled it with quick-setting epoxy, redrilled the hole, and it's been fine ever since (going on over 4 yrs now). No shelves have bowed - I have lots of experience with particleboard, since we own thousands of books and every single one of our 24 full-height 36" wide bookcases are made of the stuff, either veneered or just painted. Some of the bookcases are thirty-five years old and have been moved six times now (and also gone through two earthquakes). They are also loaded with art books weighing up to 85 lbs per shelf and can handle it without bowing - the trick with particleboard is to not exceed 32" in width without center support. High-density particleboard, when properly veneered or painted, is just as durable as 3/4" plywood. But it IS heavier, definitely not as easy to shove around or move by yourself. We have bathroom cabs made of 1/2" plywood billed as "all wood" - the stuff is flimsy, wobbly and hideous. I'll take high-quality particleboard with a good veneer any day, and know that it will last many decades without any more need for care than an "all wood" cabinet does. And please, I don't believe the inference that particleboard falls apart in water but plywood does not. I've watched plenty of interior plywood scraps disintegrate in the sun and rain - they simply delaminate, and turn into thin crispy layers that can be broken apart with your fingers. Oh, and my painted particleboard cabs? They are painted with latex paint, and I scrub fingerprints and dirt off with a wet sponge - no problems. Only marine-grade plywood can withstand water, and no company, big or small, makes cabs out of that stuff! This is the reason, BTW, that all flooring mfgs now require this stuff to be used as subflooring or you will void your warranty (something DIYers need to be aware of); they know regular plywood does not stand up to water and thus changed their warranty language to specifically exclude it....See Morestogniew
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