Personally peach makes my skin crawl, as does orange. I moved into a home that had orange countertops that we were not going to be able to replace right away, there wasn't a thing wrong with them except for the fact that they were orange, so I opted to paint my moldings white, put up white 2" blinds, and paint the walls a soft light green, looked almost mossy,tanish, but definately green. It changed the look of the whole kitchen. I actually didn't mind the counters after those changes were made. It really toned down that orange and peach color it was giving the walls and my cabinets. So as they say.....GO GREEN!

Oh fer pete sakes - 3 replies of "paint the brick", seriously? It only looks icky peach because the white contrasts w/it in such a way to bring out the peachiness. Color is very much about what other colors are in close proximity and reflecting off of it. You need a color that will make the brick read more like a reddish brown or a rich terra cotta beige. Perhaps a beigey-browny creamy beige midway between roof and brick color would pull it all together - with trim more of a cream than that stark white. I would spend some $$ on a color consultant, personally. If you post on Home Dec there are some color savvy folks there, but still youll probably get a lot of paint it white or paint it gray. If thats what you think you have to do (you dont, but if you think that) then I would suggest looking into masonry stains vs. paint which becomes, at best, an ongoing maintenance hassle and at worst a peeling mess.

Simply White has a yellow tone. The tile has an orange tone. If you stick with colors with tones of yellow to orange, no matter how light or gray they are, they will work. 903 Pirates Cove Peach is a near match to the tile. I split the difference in tones between the tile and Simply White, then increased the saturation to get both 176 Goldtone and AF-305 Ylang Ylang from Benjamin Moore. Below is a photo showing all these colors on your wall. I cannot say that my color rendition is exact, nor can I say that your monitor will produce these colors the same way mine does. However, I found the color names for those I produced via an online program called Easy RGB.

Minwax is a DIY level product. The stains they produce can be used with other oil based finishes...which means you are going to be "locked into" oil based finishes. A properly finished water based polyurethane floor should last longer than 2 years. I'm going to guess the product used was "off the shelf" with too few coats. Which would be a massive problem. Sigh. Sadly this is why SOOOO many people talk about how "bad" water based finishes are. It isn't the finish. It is the "PROFESSIONAL" (so-called) who puts down the low-end stuff (and offers a GREAT price) that create this misconception of "water based" finishes. Minwax stains are used every day. They are ubiquitous to the flooring industry. They've been around SOOOOO long that every wood flooring professional has either trained with them or continues to use them today. The problem with Minwax is it can have issues with water based products that are far more up-to-date (chemically) than when oil based finishes were the ONLY OPTION. Please be aware that any oil based finish (even oil modified water based products) will turn your wood orange (or a heavy yellow). If you want a softer gray tone, you will find an oil based finish WILL turn it orange. This is VERY upsetting to anyone who is looking for the strong gray (like the planks you are holding in the pics) you want. Personally, I think your kitchen is already "country" simply because of the style of the doors. A soft white paint will offer what you want without the distressing. My personal favourite would be antique blue...but you have to change the counters for that. The natural wood colours are timeless. If you look at any country home (anyone on a farm in an old farm house) you will find natural wood floors - because they can't be too fussy about 'fashion'. Flooring has to be functional. And natural is the most functional of all. And just for fun, I KNOW the cherry table/chairs will clash BADLY with any gray tone you put down. Cherry wood + gray wood = big clash that will make you cry. Right now the natural wood is doing VERY well with the cherry. The "problem" child would be the black stools. Ignore them. Focus on the cherry+natural oak. They are the two valuable items in the room. And they are working VERY nicely right now. I woudn't mess with that combo.