We have an under-counter beverage refrigerator with ice maker in our dry bar. I wanted something for drinks (white wine, beer, soda, mixers, etc.) and also an ice maker. I ended up with the SubZero UC-24C(I). It has a wine rack up top, storage in the door, and shelves for drinks. I love the layout of those things. I really wanted an ice maker because we opted not to get one in our main fridge because we wanted the extra freezer space. My only complaint is that the automatic ice maker fills the bin a little too full and the cubes fall on the floor. To remedy, I usually turn off the automatic feature and just turn it on when the bin needs refilling. Once full, I toss a handful into the sink so they don't fall out every time I get ice out. As for the panel, it doesn't really look integrated at all to me. It only comes with an overlay panel. The only thing I came across that was fully-integrated for under counter was the drawers and I didn't want one whole drawer being a freezer just for the ice maker. Our choice really was the most practical for our needs, however, it kind of bugs me that it is not integrated. We have inset cabinetry and I have a fully-integrated main fridge and dishwasher and I really enjoy the looks of those much better. Here is a link that might be useful: Sub Zero UC-24CI

We have the u-line undercounter built in bev fridge with glass door and trim that matches our white kitchen cabinets. According to the thermometer I tested it with in a glass of water it goes down to 37 degrees. We don't have a real fridge yet so we have food in it and it keeps well. When we get the real refrigerator it will be the big Samsung regular depth with ice and water in the door (DH loves crushed ice) but I'm so looking forward to having all the drink traffic in a separate area of the kitchen and having my real refrigerator uncluttered with drinks. The bev fridge will have wine (2 racks), beer, orange crush (a treat for when the grown children visit) and probably some bottled water for occasional use. I'm also very happy with how it looks and, as someone said earlier, it breaks up the run of white so it adds visual interest. The only thing I don't like is that the shelves are not adjustable so really tall things don't fit upright. Once that bottle of wine is open it either must go in the main fridge or we'll need to finish it. Off hand I'd say we'll probably finish what we start. Just as a side note---our 3 children are all grown up and we endured many "3-headed looks" b/c our bev choices for all children were milk or water (and that meant tap water). We also didn't keep salt or sugar snacks stocked in the house (making popcorn was an activity and so was peeling fruit). Sometimes our children also complained that "everyone else" had all the snacks and drinks we didn't but now we see them making healthy choices in their own lives and we're glad we didn't relent when they complained.

We first bought a VinoTemp (POS). Then we bought a house with a Vinotemp (another POS) and then it died. Ended up with a Marvel floor model that is lovely (2 years of use). Be sure to go to the store and look at them in person. I was surprised and how plasticy and junky many of them were. The Marvel has pull out racks that are metal and the build just felt much better than the ULine and others we looked at.

Advice if a Perlick is chosen and you have to install it yourself. (a) it is much easier to move it if you first remove the door (very simple) and the shelves and shelf glides (fairly simple) (b) keep in mind that when it slides along the floor into position, changes can occur to the adjustable support pads, and also that the floor may not be the same under the counter. Hence, level outside, move inside, measure level in three axes, pull out and set the pads to the approximate negative of any mis-level at the installed position, try again. Unlike SZ refrigerator/freezers, the back pads can't be adjusted from the front. (c) cabinets can look very square to the line of the wall but not be, and this will affect the Perlick alignment at the front as well as the door opening. Square up all cabinets relative to the line defining the cabinet fronts before bonding the counter to the cabinets. (d) countertop should be deep enough to allow the cabinets to be located a bit away from the wall behind them. Mine is 29.5 inches deep, but I had some stuff to avoid behind the 24-inch cabinets.