Second thoughts about my sink--vintage 40s kohler drainboard
mermanmike
11 years ago
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kateskouros
11 years agoRelated Discussions
Sears Kohler 22 V-Twin CV22S engine wont stayrunning
Comments (39)You're welcome. I was as perplexed as you with the "lack of" detail regarding how and when the fuel solenoid became energized. There is only one other circumstance I can liken YOUR situation to (engine acts like it wants to run when cranking, but dies when key is released from START position). Back in the '40s, '50s, and early '60s,, some automotive engine OEMs employed a "ballast resistor" in the ignition coil circuit. This "ballast resistor" was placed in the ignition coil circuit so that the normal system voltage, was cut by 50% before reaching the ignition coil. This meant that on a vehicle with a 12 volt electrical system, only 6 volts was fed to the ignition coil from the RUN position of the ignition switch. 6 volt systems cut the power to 3 volts. The most compelling reason for having to "rig up" the coil feed this way was due to the woefully inadequate batteries, switches, wiring and other things electrical, of that time. Mainly, it was the "weak" automotive batteries of the time that had to be "compensated for". Here's why: All applications that utilize a battery to power a cranking motor, will experience a dramatic "system voltage drop" throughout the entire electrical system during cranking. The "drop" is caused by the very heavy "current draw", or LOAD, of the starter. The voltage drop causes the ignition coil "sparkability" to diminish significantly. Add to that, a good frosty morning where the battery is cold and even weaker. Factor in further that the starter itself has worn brushes and sticky bushings and you will have so much current draw.....you might not even get a spark out of the coil. Enter the wizards of yesteryear (uhh, maybe they were just engineers). They developed a method to assure good sparks from the coil during cranking. The idea was to use a 6 volt rated ignition coil on a 12 volt system instead of the usual 12 volt rated coil (3 volt coil for 6 volt systems). But how can you do that? Wouldn't a 6 volt coil "burn up" if you powered it with 12 volts? Yes, it would........but not if you feed the normal RUN position power through a "ballast resistor" to reduce 12V to 6V before it reaches the coil. HUH? The "key" to how this arrangement assured dependable starting was in adding a SEPARATE circuit that would "BYPASS" the resistor while the starter was engaged. Bypassing the resistor meant that the ignition coil would be fed a "higher voltage" (in spite of system voltage drop) when cranking, than in normal running mode. After the engine "caught on", the starter was disengaged and the bypass circuit disabled. The current feeding the coil once again flowed through the ballast resistor and the 6 volt rated coil was safe from burning up. It was somewhat common in those days to confront a vehicle that acted similar to this Scag. (It wants to start while cranking, but dies when let go of key.) Most of the time, that particular problem would be due to a failed ballast resistor. But those systems had some other shortcomings. Sometimes you would find a vehicle where the owner would complain of "it just cranks and cranks and cranks, but if you turn the key loose, it might start up at that moment. THIS condition was due to the BYPASS circuit being open for some reason. OEMs accomplished "BYPASS" in different ways. Some added an extra post to the ignition switch that would power the bypass circuit during cranking. Other OEMs added an extra wire to the starter solenoid that powered the bypass circuit during cranking. When something became open in the bypass circuit, the coil would only be fed the reduced voltage. Then you were right back to the situation before the ballast resistor systems came into use. Advances in battery, ignition, starters, and conductors in general, made the use of ballast resistor systems disappear in the 1970s (except for some industrial applications). Oh yeah, magneto ignition systems were unaffected by voltage drop in the vehicle electrical system because they are "self contained spark generators"....See MoreHairline cracks in Kohler cast iron kitchen sink
Comments (71)I noticed a crack in the front corner of our (less than) 6 month Kohler Whitehaven sink. Immediately a pit in my stomach! This sink was installed on 11/14/22. We spent a pretty penny remodeling our very dated kitchen and are thrilled with how it looks. We contacted Kohler whowhichwhowhowhichwho said they will replace sink. We are waiting to talk to someone about cost associated with reinstalling a new sink to replace a defective sink. Ours is undermount and don't feel as though we should be on the hook for this expense. Anxious to hear back from Kohler. If their product wasn't defective we wouldn't be needing to discuss cost associated with this repair....See MoreTake three, layout with kohler stages 45
Comments (14)I hadn't thought of that at all. That's an interesting idea! I think what will be stored in the twelve inches to the left of the dishwasher will be ziplock bags and aluminum foil and dish soap and the like. I wonder if a pull out or a side openning door would be better for that? Hmm. For the twelve inches next to the exterior door in the range run, I'm thinking that's where I will store the dog food. Seems like a pull out with trash can would be good? But maybe a regular cabinet would be cheaper and since I would only be accessing it twice a day? Thank you!...See MoreFaucets for kohler stages 45, old house
Comments (14)crl, for how you plan to use the sink with two faucets, I would not get the stages because of the integrated drainboard--i.e., someone on the drainboard end of the sink turning a faucet on full blast and making a splashy mess of things. Instead, I would get a large single bowl sink like this 48" whopper: "BIG Sink" Or this smaller one that has an integrated ledge that allows you to use Stages like accessories: "36 Single" Note-- Top mount sinks can generally be undermounted if that is a concern....although, in your space constricted situation, you may decide to use a laminate counter top because solid surface usually demand more dead space in front of the sink. And, since no one else has weighed in on the Weymouth...I think it looks too fussy, esp. in pairs...too "Look at ME". And a lot more trouble to keep wiped down. I realize that you're shooting for a vintage feel...but, IMO, the Weymouth kinda shouts faux vintage in a not very good way. But, keep in mind that this is just the impression of someone who has hard water and yields more to contemporary and/or utilitarian faucet design....See Moremarcolo
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