I like your idea of trying to build the cabs flush with the fridge case. We did that, and it looks really sleek.

Quite a few people on this forum advise against deep pantries, but I have 3 24" deep pantry areas and love them. I think the key to having them work well is to mix up how you use the space so you have maximum access. In my case, I have one tower pullout where I store oils, vinegars, baking staples, some spices, and vitamins. Another, wider pantry has drawers on the bottom for canned goods and the kids' snacks, and adjustable shelves above for larger items. My last pantry area is actually a drawer stack, and holds more canned goods as well as plastic bags and lunch boxes.

That said-- 29" is really deep, and a nonstandard depth. Are you using custom cabs? If so you'd probably appreciate the deeper depth on the drawers and pullouts, not so much on the shelving. If you go with that depth, I'd put in drawers to waist-height, maybe even chest-height.

You can always use 24" standard-depth cabs and build a frame behind them to pull them out. That's what we did.

I'm doing that exact thing with custom cabs. If it's on a different wall, it shouldn't throw anything off. Everyone (and I've had lots of people come through my kitchen, including a decorator, KDs, etc) said it would be fine, even if the rest of the kitchen counter depths are 24". Mine will be 29" deep and 34" wide with a drawer at the bottom. The pantry shelving will not go back the full 29". I have to have room in the back to install a 3 way light switch on the side of the pantry.

Monday the cabinet maker is taking us to see a kitchen he did 2 years ago. He says it's about the same as we're ordering. I'm hoping the pantry area is the same too. I'll take pictures to show you if it is the same as our situation.

One thing we found is that it was going to be more difficult to find a manufacturer who could work with us on the 29" depth. We looked into Kraftmaid with plywood ends, and their panel would have been fine, but Mid-Continent would have been using a thin, flimsy particle board filler on the side of the pantry that to us was unacceptable - even though they were going to secure it with a 1x2 to the wall. It was so flimsy that we were still worried about damage if something knocked against the "empty" part in the back of the pantry.

So, be sure that if you're going with manufactured cabinetry, you pay attention to what type of panel they'll be using on the side of the pantry. Likely, you will have an empty area back there as most manufacturers don't have a 29" depth pantry.

What many people have done is notch the pantry shelves so each one is sort of U shaped, or like an E missing its middle bar.

My carpenter advised me not to make any shelf deeper than about 14 inches, max, or it would become unusable. (And many around it seems here have found true happiness with 8 or 10.)

That way you can kind of step in, everything is arranged around the edges (just how much of the middle of the shelf is scooped out is up to you) and light penetrates, so you can see what's on the shelves.

No fancy pull outs, no wire racks, so slides. Unless you want them. This is just basic, wooden fixed shelves. You could even retrofit/convert a too-dark, too-deep closet pantry this way.

If you search on pantry, I'm sure you'll see a lot of photos of this type of shelf.

Good luck!

I was going to suggest what growlery said... kind of a step in pantry. narrow depth shelves allows you to view everything and not have to dig behind to find what you want.