The anti-biosoild zealots are long on "it might be a risk" or Europe's standards are lower,yet they still fail to produce real hard data. For example, what they leave out is the load limit of some of these metals, such as copper and lead in class A and even class B biosoilds. You would need to apply Milorganite EVERY year or some other biosolid like it for 345 years for lead and 278 years for copper for it to reach its EPA load limit. That doesn't even account for organic binding, mineralization and leaching/migration of the metals harmlessly in the soil. I don't know about you, but even with long life in my family, I doubt I will be around that long to worry about it. I use Milorganite on everything and I have even seen the independent report and have spoken with an independent scientist who tested it for a bioremediation project for the DoD. She indicated it was lower in metals and other contaminants than the tap water and virgin soil they were going to use in the project. Compare class A biosoilds to Scott's or Ironite sometime and decide which will be better to put down as fertilizer for your kids or pets to play around. BTW, the National Science Foundation did an independent study and risk assessment in 1995 of EPA biosolids regulations and found they were far below any levels that would possibly pose any threat to humans, wildlife, soil or water and agriculture. The zealots seem to overlook this fact as well in their quest to malign well managed practices of biosolid use. There has NEVER been a documented case of the regulated use of biosolids causing harm to people, animals or plants in over 35 years of use in our environment-yet the myth and junk science persists. I will continue to use and benefit from Milorganite on my lawn, veggies, ornamentals like temperate tropicals and palm trees.

If you have access to a serger they're easier to work with on large fabric than a machine. They also make a sturdier (washable) product. But they're not essential. Really you're making a couple of large rectangles so it's not too hard. You are thinking correctly, go ahead and use a bit of a liner in the top (nothing too stiff so they still flow easily). I'd do two panels personally since they look better pulled to each side than one pulled to one side on a window/door of this size. I'd line them with blackout fabric if I were making them. It gives you a nice finished white back and gives the correct body to the drapes so they look expensive :) Cut the lining about 2" smaller on each side so that the front forms a frame on the back side and then go about 2" on the top, and give yourself about six inches extra on the bottom. Add your liner to the top and then sew them like a pillow case, bottom side open. (Front of fabric to front of fabric) then turnside out (leaving the correct fabric showing, and iron into shape, then whip sew the hem by hand to the lining for a professional finish. You'll become addicted and sew for the entire house soon :oP Even light fabric is heavy in bulk. You'll really want to watch your tension as you sew (hopefully you have a good machine or a serger). What happens often is that people pull their fabric through (never do that) and the tension gets off so that at the very end of the piece, you'll see that the seams don't line up right (one side shorter than the other etc). If possible sew so that the fabic is landing on a table behind the machine verses falling down over the edge of one, which causes the same tension issues...thus causing YOU tension...and making you resort to drinking and sewing...which is dangerous and stuff ;oP

What do you think of fabric curtains? Recently a colorist who visited said open windows are where it's at. I'm a tad more private although I don't cover my windows, just layer them to allow sunlight. Here's a modern Jim Thompson toile window treatment in yellow/gold that would go well with the Cornforth White (grey white) room paint and introduce warmth. This fabric is discontinued. [[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/classic-kitchen-traditional-kitchen-new-york-phvw-vp~131752) [Traditional Kitchen[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2107) by Far Hills Interior Designers & Decorators J. Stephens Interiors Here is Jim Thompson's Gables print in cotton: Farrow and Ball Cornforth White: Unlike the colorist, I think window fabric treatments are fine as lone as they are not dated and are fresh (not saggy, on appropriate rods etc). With imagination, I could see the bath window with the same fabric on the lower half, with tabs or ribbons trisecting the curtain on a nice large rod. Just drop the above down, add length and mount it half way. For the kitchen, do it as a valance or roman shade. This post was edited by SparklingWater on Fri, Jun 13, 14 at 19:06

Stay away from Smith and Noble. Stay far, far away. I ordered 6 shades. I paid Smith and Noble to come measure. When the shades arrived, 5 of the 6 were about 1/4 to 1/2 inch too wide for the windows. I asked to return the shades to get my money back. Turns out their "satisfaction guarantee pledge" means that they won't give you your money back, no matter what. They insist on coming back to re-measure, but a) I can't take time off from work again for this, and b) why would I want to run the risk of further screw ups and hassle? Their customer service staff come across as Soviet-style bureaucrats. Evidently, Smith and Noble could care less about disappointing their customers and engendering ill will. I guess my next steps are to file complaints with the BBB and my state's attorney general, as well as dispute the original charge with my credit card company. I'll probably send the shades back to the company's president for good measure. Keep in mind that Smith and Noble's "partner sites" (i.e. sister companies) include Ballard Designs, Grandin Road, Garnet Hill, TravelSmith, Frontgate, and others. You can rest assured that I won't be giving any of them my business in the future either.