Thank you for the warm welcome to the club! I have been giving it thought for a while now, having assumed (but not being certain) that it was poa annua. Though areating and overseeding in the fall has become my SOP, I think I may have to skip it this fall (and next spring) and concentrate instead on getting rid of this stuff in the fall and spring pre-germination stages. That does not make me a happy camper as before the poa's arrival, I had a nice, lush, deep green lawn. I am now investigating the most effective pre-ems that are readily available in my area (and post-ems that don't kill the KGB and rye if such a product even exists--sounds too good to be true). Thus far, I have located only Dimension with Team. I have looked for Balan (which, from what I understand, would allow me to overseed 6 weeks after application), but have been unable to find it locally.

See, thats the "bizarre" part of this. We just purchased this house 2 months ago. The previous owners lived here for about 18 years. Our neighbor planted this in OUR yard (of course it wasn't our yard 15 years ago). Who the heck knows why? I can't even imagine taking one of our indoor potted invasive plants & popping over next door to plant it-lol! The thing is, he's proud of how well it has grown? We'll be putting a fence up in another couple of weeks. So, he'll have to hop the fence to plant the poison oak he's got clippings of:-) May I ask you a question about where to put it? Our house is on a crawl space. I was thinking of putting a clump of it in a shady spot right up against the house & the deck. I'll keep it in check by chopping the rhizomes, as you mentioned. However, if they go under the house (into the crawl) or under the deck, will that be a problem? There is absolutely no light under the crawl & almost completely dark under the deck. Will the plant naturally "not" grow in those areas? I don't want to create a bigger problem. I'm also going to offer the rest up on freecycle or the va board here at gardenweb (free for the digging). Do you think people would want this? Any transplant issues I should know about? Thanks so much.

Ohmygosh Leximom! I have an EXACT same China cabinet! In fact, I have the whole dining room set-China cabinet, large buffet, small server, trestle table with claw-foot legs, 4 side chairs, 2 arm chairs! It was purchased at a local auction (eastern PA) many years ago. Like you, I was eager to find any info on it. The other day I found tags on the undersides of the chairs. (Never thought to look there before until by brother suggested it.) The set was made by the Thomasville Chair Company of Thomasville, NC. I'm guessing around the 1930s. Here's a website for a history of the company: http://www.fundinguniverse.com/company-histories/thomasville-furniture-industries-inc-history/ There's a Thomasville store nearby and I'm going there in the next few days with photos of all the pieces. I'm hoping they can give me more exact dates and any other info they have. If I find out more, I'll let you know. They're beautiful pieces, and I just cleaned ALL the draw pulls with Wright's copper cleaner. They look fabulous-bright and shiny again. Can't believe I found your post. I just noticed the numbers stamped ONLY on the China cabinet pulls and searched for that. Here's a photo of the buffet:

There is a whole Design Around This thread on the kitchen forum devoted to Keeping the Golden Oak. It would greatly benefit you (and a lot of others) to read it. Opposites on the color wheel make each other look more intense. Red makes green "greener" and blue makes orange "oranger". That's the big problem with orange woodwork. A lot of things make it just shout, "ORANGE". Not only is there nothing that rhymes with it, there isn't a lot that plays well with it at all. Greens can work to tone it down by using the commonality of yellow. More orange, in the red orange terracotta tones (NOT citrus orange) can make it seem less orange, but then, you end up feeling like you are inside a flowerpot. Grays can work, if it has a bit of a green cast, but most orange woodwork makes grays seem like blues next to the orange. But what happens when you DO put actual blue next to the orange is that you REALLY notice the orange in the woodwork (not in a good way) and the blue shouts a lot louder. Blues can get in your face very quickly when paired with orange wood. If you want a room that shouts ORANGE and BLUE at you every time you enter, you can use that to your advantage. You build off of the tension and energy that the contrast creates. That's not the vibe in the OP's inspiration pics. They are all calm, lower energy rooms based off of the freshness of white, with energizing bits of color in the mix. "Serene and fresh" would be the words that I would use for the inspiration album. The only way to get that exact vibe is to have the white woodwork. If that's off of the table, then you have to tone the clearness of the colors down to tone the energy level down and to use the perception of the inspiration colors rather than the actual exact inspiration colors. The orange terracotta tones of the wood set the whole palette. That becomes the orange in it. A greyed down blue will look much bluer next to that, and you use that trick of the eye to create the "blue" tones in the room. A dark cream becomes yellow, and a grayed sage will be the green. The eye will look at the whole thing together and see orange and blue, even though the actual colors used are terra cotta and gray. And that is exactly the color palette that the designer chose here. No, it's not the OP's exact color inspiration. But, it WILL give you the feel of the inspiration, whereas using the exact colors would give you a visually busy and much more high energy tone. It would be a club over the head of COLOR rather than a nice nudge of color.