I did replace the GFCI breaker with a normal one. I added a GFCI receptacle to the left of the kitchen sink. And I found out the master bath receptacle on the wall with the light switch, feeds the kitchen receptacle to the right of the sink. So I put a GFCI in the master bath and a GFCI label on the kitchen receptacle to the right of the sink. The oddball receptacle in the master bath down by the floor, got swapped for a GFCI. And the lower bath got a GFCI as well. So the main panel is all normal breakers now. I was busy painting the garage OSB and drywall. Finally getting around to the sub panel again. Found one on Ebay for a decent price. And it had all the breakers installed. The last guy was going to use it for a sub panel but decided to go with something else. This sub panel has screw down breakers. (see photos below) So I got 50ft 6/3 w/g NM-B cable. It is still wrapped up. The current sub panel "feed" is 12/2 romex coming out of the wall just a tad under the radon exhaust pvc.(see photo) Prior owners handy work. That exit hole is right by the out wall of the house. That 12-2 feed is routed through the double rim joist into the house lower level bedroom. The joists are perpendicular to that wall and run straight back to the utility room which has an open ceiling. The rest of the lower level is dropped ceiling tiles. The 12-2 feeder was routed diagonally across that lower room through all the 2x12 joists, across the doorway, and where the stairs are, and then 90 degrees to the right into the room with the main panel. In routing it, it was snaked through holes being used for other larger cables. I have my doubts about being able to route 6/3 through the same path. Many of those holes are going up on an angle. So I probably will wind up drilling new holes in the joists to run the 6/3. Another option presented itself today as far as the exit hole into the garage for the 6/3 feed. I removed the hose biib connection that was in the garage. See photo where drywall needs to be patched. (The hose biib was left there after the garage was put on. That wall was formerly the front of the house.) So that hose biib hole is closer to the main panel by a good 11 feet. The hole size is just under 1 inch. If I route the 6/3 cable through that spot, it would require less drilling of joists. But it would require me to run the cable to the right along the garage wall to get to the new sub panel. I have not decided if I am going to mount it just above the radon pipe in the corner, or the adjacent wall. They are both outside walls of the garage. So the question then is, if I route the 6/3 along the wall, can I enclose it in some leftover schedule 40 pvc conduit I have for protection? It would be about 51 inches off the floor and head to the right about 12 feet. Or do I need a different cable altogether since it is in a damp location? New sub panel Screw down breakers The romex with the horse shoe loop is the current sub panel feed New panel will mount either above the radon pipe exit on the right, or on the adjacent wall. Current sub panel up high to the right of door Former hose biib location. Can route 6/3 through the hole and save a lot of joist hole drilling versus the current 12-2 feed exit location.

I suspect he's out of poles in the original panel so the two circuits he's moving are ones he is getting out of the way so he can put the feeder breaker in. There's no such conduit called bendable conduit. FMC, LFMC, and FMT are restricted in their use in the Chicago code and I do not believe they can be used here. LFNC is not permitted at all. If you run RMC or EMT, you can likely use the conduit itself as the equipment ground. The THHN 12g Copper is fine for 20A even after derating. For a 50A feed, derated, you could get away with 8g Cooper. To stuff 4 #6 and 4 #12 in EMT, 3/4 is too small, 1" would be the smallest allowable size.

If it is a MWBC why does he need a subpanel and ground rods? That's different than installing an actual subpanel. If the OP can get away with two 20-amp circuits, then a MWBC would be a lot easier/cheap to run. Assuming the distance isn't too long, 12-3 UF-B can be direct bury (sleeved as it leaves the ground for physical protection), 12" down as long as it's GFCI protected before it leaves the house. No need for ground rods.

It's not how much you're drawing from the grid but how much you are drawing in total. This assuming that you load balance (grid + solar) before your panel which is typical. (The other option would be to have one panel for grid connected circuits and one for solar connected circuits but I'd recommend against that.) Also, there are still likely to be cases where you will be 100% grid unless you are OK with not having some electrical things available when solar+battery is not available. So, I think you will likely still need a panel capable of handling the entire electrical load of your house in order to meet code. I believe Span uses standard dumb breakers and just has their electronics behind it. A significant problem w/ new electrical panels is AFCI nusiance trips (think having to reset a breaker once per week or day). Some panels such as Square D's new stuff are doing a much better job than others such as Eaton or Siemens so something to think about.