***"I think a PTO switch should be able to handle more current."*** Justifiable thinking (and wishing). I too believe that any switch in an electrical system, and the wiring, connector terminals, etcetera...........should have an ampacity at least 3 X greater than the fuse ampacity and be able to tolerate a continuous electrical load of 1.5 X the fuse rating without damage. But it seems that the design engineers are more about engineering for low cost assembly and build to get the product to market instead of other concerns about costs to the consumer later. Using the PTO clutch as an example of my opinion, a typical PTO clutch in good working order will draw no more than about 4 Amp. Factor in a wider than perfect air gap and the current draw may edge up to near 5 Amp. While 5 Amp draw will not cause a 10 or 15 Amp fuse to fail, it seems that any current draw higher than 5 Amp WILL cause early failure to a lot of the PTO switches in today's lawn tractors (that too is just my opinion, based on threads to this forum). The OEMs are not likely to provide a solution to the problem on units already in the field, nor to begin building with heavier duty PTO switches......ever. For the consumer who is handy/savvy enough to do some custom wiring on their tractor, a 30 amp Bosch style, 5 pin, aftermarket relay could be added to the PTO wiring that would remove 100% of the clutch load from the PTO switch while leaving the OPERATION of the PTO controls exactly as OEM built it. And the total cost of parts to do so would be around $15 (or less). Addition of the relay would not interfere with the OEM fuse from blowing if a "genuine short" occurred. Some of the posts regarding failed PTO switches imply that there might be a marketing strategy in place to bolster sales of replacement parts (again, my opinion). It has been posted in the past that a trip to the OEM parts center for a replacement PTO switch revealed the item stocked in large quantities. That is something that more or less declares the item to have a very high failure rate. You can usually infer that the "stockable quantity" of any item on the inventory ledger reflects the expected number of unit sales during a single ordering cycle (30 to 90 days avg.)

"Thanks, just finished grounding the box using the screw on one of the cable clamps." Not suitable. There should be a 10-32 threaded hole in the back of the box for attaching a grounding pigtail. If the box is very old the hole may not be threaded, and if even older may not be there. You can use the slide on clips to ground the box (though relying on spring pressure remains a weak point). Only machine screw threads are allowed for grounding (no self tapping screws).

"Decora" is a Leviton registered trademark. Other companies refer to this style as decorator or designer when they want to imply that their device fits the same size opening. Lutron uses the name "Maestro" for one of their dimmer lines that fit in a designer style opening. Maestro dimmers that you find at HD or Lowes are not RF radio frequency. Some have IR capability but are called Maestro IR, or identical looking Spacer. For 3ways you use a remote in wall that talks to the master dimmer and tells it what to do using the typical 3way wiring. Lutron has both toggle style and designer style dimmers that can use remotes for mulitlocation dimming so you can have full control at both ends (and middle). Lutron Radio RA and HomeWorks wireless systems do have RF Maestro dimmers for whole home capable lighting control systems that are easy to retrofit. As Jon says, dimmers do save money, are an approved method of meeting California Title 24 in rooms as specified, do waste about 1% as heat at the dimmer and the lamps are not as efficient when dimmed. They also extened lamp life. Some dimmers do not need to be trimmed to fit next to each other but still require derating for the heat they produce. There are 1000 watt models available as well as completely remote dimming where you put a normal dimmer in the wall to control a larger dimmer hidden away.

We have all had to make compromises and substitutions the past couple of years. From TP to dish soap, sensitive skin laundry detergents...some new findings better than pre-covid. But re-formulaed products not at all similar to an original is un-acceptable. Even if the attempt is to kick out chemicals and dyes. It should not be that hard to get very close. If concentration by evaporation is needed, it should be on their clock. Not at home without direction---ever. BS if you need to keep a product open for days to evaporate the alcohol. I've had to make a few substituions i'm not at all happy with. Imagine if Worchestershire went out of business. I would survive no problem but i would take the challenge and make my own like i did last year this time and made my own OldBay that i like better than the original. (not out of business but the salt content is over the top). ---a family challenge to get the 'salt-lick' throat burn out of the crab/shrimp boil. Still, it is BS if a familiar product is not at all the same.