Get a block and tackle to pull the fence wire tight with a piece of pipe run thru the fence wire, top to bottom, as the pulling point. One end of block and tackle at wire, other end on corner post, tree, truck hitch, something solid to pull against. You really can't pull the wire plain, by hand and expect to get any tension. If you do get some tension, who will fasten wire to posts? Tools are your good friend when fencing. If you can't manage to really get wire mesh tight top and bottom, perhaps a small electric fence charger run inside fence line, to keep dogs off the wire. A large dog jumping up, could easily push loose or flimsy mesh over and escape. Excited dogs are nothing to have enclosed in sloppy fence. Nice fence is real work, hard and time consuming. Sometimes closer together posts if ground is uneven, work better. Easier to clip fence into place, move to next area of pull. Block and tackle will be helpful with your chain link fence as well, when you put it back up. You may already know this, but unweaving the last piece of wire on roll, will allow you to use that wire piece to weave the two chain link fence rolls together in seamless connection. The post driver mentioned is a good idea, fast way to set T-posts. Safer than a sledge hammer, can use standing on the ground, don't have to be above post for swing. Have enough wire clips on hand to attach wire to posts securely. Use a real fence tool or correct pliers to twist on wire clips. All pliers are not created equal when putting up fence. A shovel under the plate of T-post in the ground, push long handle down, will jack the post straight up, when you want to remove it. Much easier than trying to dig them out or pull them straight up, unless you have a machine like a bobcat to pull with. T-post are easier to reuse or sell if straight.

I don't think the box is a problem so long as the 90-degree flex fitting doesn't affect full insertion of the oven. Note the note on the drawing referencing an adjacent cabinet. However, this leaves open the question of whether your whip is suitable. The answer somewhat depends on what is supplied with the oven for hook-up. In some ovens, higher temperature conductors are supplied inside their own flex armor protection that you wire to the box. These should be fine. The method of connection within the box needs to conform to the temperature rating of the flex cable conductors and not to just the house wiring (if different). Wire nuts are rated at 120C, I believe, as are some screw type connectors. Most receptacles and plugs are not. If the oven expects you to hook up to it with your flex cabling, then make sure you use high temperature conductors. Without any measurements, I don't know what temperature you will need to meet. The now-a-days most common THHN conductors are rated for 90C. I would hope this is sufficient, and if not, the other materials behind the oven need to be evaluated. If there is room, I would add a panel of 5/8 firecode sheetrock. I"m unclear what that melted tape is supposed to be accomplishing. If 90C conductor insulation is insufficient, accounting for wire heating due to current draw, then one of the more exotic conductor types may be called for, unless this self heating is ameliorated by going to larger diameter conductors. See Table 310.104(A) in NFPA 70 (National Electrical Code), and in general, the entirety of Section 310. Or hire an electrician who is supposed to know all this stuff. kas

There are a few differences in gas and electric ovens. You will find that chefs and manufacturers would say gas is “moist” heat because water is a byproduct of combustion and so electric must be dry. The problem is they are not looking at the whole oven and the process of cooking. What are sources of moisture and what happens to it? There is moisture released with the combustion of gas. Food also produces quite a bit of moisture in the cooking process. I read just a couple of weeks ago on the Miele website that a cake baking provides the equivalent of the 30 % steam setting on their steam oven. Imagine how much moisture is produced with some other foods. Gas ovens have a much bigger vent to vent the products of combustion and moisture from food. You have a lot more movement of air through a gas oven while an electric oven has a much smaller vent, holding on to the moisture produced by the food. Reading cooking and baking forums you hear these comments over and over. Gas ovens put more heat and moisture into the kitchen. Gas ovens are great for roasting and browning. If you read about the Maillard reaction, you will see that you must have drying to allow the temperature of the surface to rise and browning chemical reactions to take place. Some bread bakers want to add steam at the beginning of baking to promote starch gelatinization for a specific type of crust. They report it is much more difficult to keep added steam in a gas oven. Baking is a complex interaction of variables so it is difficult to make hard and fast rules because you only have to change one or two of the variables and get a different result. Some bakers say that cakes don’t rise as well if they had an electric oven and go to gas. Sometimes they say gas produces a dry looking cake. This again has to do with starch gelatinization being prolonged in an electric oven giving a little longer rise. This doesn’t mean you can’t bake in gas. I think some recipes work well in gas and over the years, you keep recipes that work and discard those that don’t. Cake mixes are formulated to work in different conditions so work with both. Things with more sugar may also show more difference. Eveness in baking is tricky. That’s what everybody wants. Convection is marketed as the answer to even heat but it can make air currents that make hot spots. The fan is drying to the surface of what you are baking or roasting so that part browns quicker if it gets exposed to an air current. Some companies try to fix that by having two fans, baffles or a reversing fan. Some ovens have a variable speed fan. The fan does change the direction of heat so that it comes from more directions instead of the bottom. Many recipes for cakes and pies were developed with the heat coming from the bottom. There are very expensive electric ovens that don’t have it right and my DILs Bosch gas oven is pretty good. My Electrolux oven is pretty even but has other problems. Aside from the the nature of the heat, electric ovens can have more control. They may have a third element (true or European convection) and direct heat from the top or bottom, more from the top for roasting. A few gas ovens may have these features now. They can have very tight control of temperature, maybe +/- 2F but I’m not sure how much that matters. More important to me is the range of temperature. My current oven has 80-450F and the fan can blow with the heat off or up to 450F. Some ovens only go as low as 225F. Both of my ovens have slow or fast fan speed. I know bakers that use gas and electric. Some commercial ovens have steam injectors and ventilators to control humidity. Gas broilers come come in two forms, the first is a conventional one that doesn’t get that hot. There are also gas infrared broilers that heat evenly and get hot but might be smaller.

Aside from the blue chipping with Wolf, read about the M on several threads. I would pick one of the others if I were to go Wolf, although that is highly unlikely anyway. The M does not have the conv bake which is the most usable conv mode. It also has the fans in the corner that makes hot spots along the sides. I think you would be happiest with another BlueStar oven because of its unique features. I feel that way about my Electrolux oven. It just has a couple of small things not as major as what you like in BS but I will miss them if I get something else. Electrolux has some quality issues too, more widespread though.