What a mess. Sorry for your troubles, these things just shouldn't happen. Here's what I advise you to do: Write down the original problem, then each blunder that followed. Have it ready in an email. No emotion. Just the details. 1) This is what we ordered. 2) This is what was installed. 3) This was the problem with the installation. 4) This is what was done in an attempt to repair the problem (vinegar, stain, paint). 5) Is there a way to repair what has been done so we can have what we wanted in Step 1)? 6) If there isn't, what is the best course of repair so you can be made whole? (Full grout removal and replacement?) 7) Is their an alternative course of repair? (Mask it with Aquamix Grout Colorant?) Now one thing, you certainly don't want to use the AquaMix colorant if you don't like any of the offered colors. Call Custom's tech department. Ask the tech for his email address and while you are on the phone, fire off the email to him so he has the details in writing. I've even emailed photos to techies whole on the phone with them. Have your discussion, and have the tech reply to you in writing via an email. If the tech can't assure you that repairs can be made to the grout "as is", then have him write that the only way to get a proper installation is for the grout to be removed and replaced. The goal is to get specific answers back from him in writing. Some tech guys can suffer from the "I don't know" syndrome, and it's fine if they do...but they still have to recommend a final course of action. The point-of-view I use when dealing with tech support is that if they can't assure me that everything is okay, well, then it's not okay. And if it's not okay, the best course of action is usually full removal and replacement. With it being replaced, then you know it's okay. Your do have a few choices. One would be to have the grout removed and then new grout installed. That would "make you whole" in terms of you getting the installation that you originally wanted. One of the risks with that is when removing the grout, sometimes the tile edges can get nicked here and there. Any damage to the tile can just make this whole experience sink further into the abyss. Small nicks to the tile might not be a huge issue if the tile is a through-body color tile, ie, the color of the "inside" of the tile is similar in color to the surface color. An alternative repair, and it is a "repair" versus "making you whole", can be attacked on two levels, but the overall "repair" is using a grout colorant over the grout you have. Not a grout stain, but an epoxy-based grout colorant. I don't use colorants often, but when I do it's Aquamix Grout Colorant. AquaMix is a product from Custom, so it'd be right up the tech's alley in terms of a product that he could recommend. But again, you have to like one of their offered colors to want to use the product. One level of repair depends on the "paint added to the grout". I'd get an answer from Custom Tech on this. Is the grout okay? Will the paint prevent the epoxy colorant from adhering to the grout, etc? Will the stain used create adherence issues? If the messed up grout is a concern, would a proper repair be for then to remove the polluted grout from those sections. Install new cementitious grout. Then the grout colorant can go over the entire floor? It's difficult because your proper repair is removal of the grout and installing new grout. But the nature of that repair can cause damage to the tile...and sure, damaged tiles can be pulled and replaced. But does your C/H have the ability to carry out a repair like that without causing more problems? Your interaction now is pretty much between you and your contractor/handyman. Sure, your tile guy did the installation. But once your C/H jumped in with the paint and stain, he sort of absolved the original tile guy of all his installation sins. The fact that your C/H followed bogus advice from the tile store versus calling the grout manufacturer's tech department for repair advice, that's all on your C/H. He can certainly blame the sales guy at the tile store for giving him bogus advice. But that's not a concern to you. Let the C/H argue with the sales guy about that. Only your C/H is a concern to you, he's the one you hired, he's the one who really buggered up the installation. He should have done what you're going to do...and what it says on every bag of grout to do...if you have problems, call tech support. Sorry for the wordy reply. This is one of those cases where I was interrupted by several phone calls while typing, etc...ramblin' man...oh yes oh yes oh yes...oh nooooo.... Custom Customer Support 800-272-8786 Custom Technical Services 800-282-8786 Good luck.

Lovely! I like the classic white tile and porcelain and how you used furniture pieces in the bathroom. I love that the storage at the end of the tub has pull-outs that can be reached from the toilet. Your custom sink and backsplash and counter are unique and beautiful. Yours may be the first bathroom sink I have seen in which a small or medium dog could be washed! That is a good thing! I showed your pictures to my DH because I am thinking of classic tiled walls with a chair rail for when we redo our bath in a couple of years. He liked it! I was expecting him to say, "too old fashioned." He did not, he said it looked nice. From him, nice is a compliment. He even liked your rows of listello. I was just at the Tile Shop's site the other day looking at the Hampton tiles because someone was selling some on Craigslist. I am hoping to do as you did and get what I can cheaper there, and fill in the rest from the store. I can see that you worked very hard to secure all of your materials - and then cut the floor tiles to size and culled the Hampton tiles, too! You succeeded very well in getting the look you wanted while saving money along the way. Congratulations, and thank you for the pictures and great detail and supply list.

Opinions on your questions: 1. Pocket vs. swing door: I'm not a big fan of pocket doors on bathrooms because they're more of a pain to close and lock. If you close and lock bathroom doors in your house. :-) 2. Benches are not mandatory. I prefer niches for storing shampoo and soap. Benches are usually to put your leg on when shaving. If you do have one in that corner, I'd recommend a triangular shaped one instead of square. There are pre-fab, ready-to-tile benches like this: I think the shower controls are fine where you drew them, on the bottom wall. Other thoughts: 4. code says toilet back to front should be 5' clear. Can you bump the wall a few inches to attain that? 5. I'd hinge the shower door on the other side. That will allow a towel rack on the bottom wall. You can easily fit a 48" vanity in that space. I'd definitely do it. On design, the typical "period appropriate" materials would be subway tiles in the shower and hex tiles on the floor. You could use natural marble on the floor if you wanted to splurge. I used larger hex porcelain in a powder room (not technically "period" but "in the style of"): With a neutral white/gray in the permanent stuff, you could pick your favorite splash of color for the walls. Or use that dark gray that's greenish, and use accessories, towels, etc. for the color. Your dining room is to die for, btw. Great work!

I wouldn't use beadboard because it's cottage/beachy and your bathroom is traditional. If you want the beadboard look, I'd use a Shaker vanity. Otherwise I'd use traditional paneling with that vanity. Here are a few examples: With a warm color palette, you could use polished nickel for a little sparkle. It has a gold undertone where chrome has a blue undertone. The vanity is heavy and ornate so I'd probably look for a wood framed mirror for balance, though I'd keep it simple. I like rectangular mirrors when you are using an overhead light fixture. Something like this: https://www.build.com/avanity-brentwood-m24/s899881 Or the Avanity Madison: https://www.build.com/avanity-madison-m24/s1085061 The floor, vanity, and mirror hits my limit on brown tones, so that's why I'd use nickel lighting, faucet, and hardware. I'd use a traditional three-light fixture that's a few inches shorter than the mirror. What will the countertop be?