don't take hvac advice from home inspector, unless he/she has training to make these statements. have several hvac companies outline your options. inspection of ductwork & layout of house is the only way to accurately answer the question of ductwork. but adding more units means each will have to tie ducts into new supply plenum for new unit. each new unit would also need return air plenum & filter back grill. rather than adding more units check into zoning. multiple thermostats for the two units. this is less costly than adding more units & modifications to ductwork are not always done well and comfort suffers. a true zoned system has motorized dampers that open & close as tstat calls for more or less air. these dampers are controlled by an electronic board. true zoned systems are a wonderful thing when installed correctly. make sure that the hvac company has experience with succesful zoned systems. also look to increase SEER above minimum efficiency 13 SEER. do you have a/c & electric heat or gas furnace? if electric heat look into heat pump options to save in utility costs in winter time. best of luck.

Hopefully I'll talk him into doing it right before the inspector even comes. He just wants to know why it is a problem which I didn't know how to explain besides the receptacle is designed for 120/240 and not 3 phase, plus it exceeds the amperage rating. He then said, "I bet these pins could carry 200 amps if they had to" Kind of has that bad attitude of "Well it's not code but it is still safe right?" He thought bootleging a ground on a receptacle was a safe solution which I explained the dangers and now he realizes the dangers of his actions and says he won't do it again. Maybe this is why our 2 states got rid of the experior exam and brought back the apprenticeship. Some people don't get that the code is there as a bare minimum for safety and not just a suggestion of what works best. I really think he has no intentions to do things dangerously, wants to be a great company. However skipping codes is infact dangerous. But think the electrical education is not completely there and it is silly that I the 19 year old college student am the one telling them what to do often. They should be the ones kicking my butt telling me what to do :) They call me "book wiz" cause of all the code citations I enforce on the job lol. This is also the 1st commercial job he has had besides service calls. We got 4 men putting in a 800 amp service, outdoor light poles, and an entire fast food restaurant's worth of wiring. I've been working 8 am to 9 pm very often :)

Here's an intriguing option: use the existing 240V wiring for one of the new over-the-range GE Advantium 240 microwave/speedcookers/convection ovens. Reuse the 120V/15A wiring for the gas stove ignition. The Advantium 240 line was just revamped. The new ones look and function as regular microwave ovens, but with 5500w available, can also double as a regular 2nd oven, or triple as a high-speed oven that combines microwave and halogen cooking to create quickly-cooked dishes that are crispy and don't have the usual soggy microwave taste and texture. You would need to downrate the breaker from 40A to 30A, but otherwise it should work easily.

I would not run any kitchen appliances off an EU2000. The toaster oven is likely 1500W and while it may run it will tax the little genset, especially if anything else, at all, is running. Also, this is all "single-phase", even the 120/240V stuff. You are simply comparing 240V, or 120/240V, with 120V.