I thougnt ATT&T/Bell Atlantic/VZ whoever they are.... got all their Network interfaces in a LONG TIME ago, and I mean a LONG, LONG time ago. If they have not, which it seems they have not, then I would say, they owe you an NID, which you apparently do not have, unless you have not looked around enough. If you incredibly do not have one, they will put one on your house. It's a residential version of a DeMarc, a demarcation point that determines, who owns what wires. I would look around very carefully, if you don not have one, I THINK they have to install one for free. Then you can test further. The other way is to trace the telco back to the nearsest point where it enters, disconnect everything, but their wires, buy an RJ11 jack, wired it in and check for static, etc. It'sd a PITA to do it thst way. But VZ will chatge you for a tech. So I'd look for a NID...and then call. Without the NID, neither you or VZ can prove who is at fault...why do you think they have spent all the money installing them> KEN

Copper is a lot lighter than cast iron and I would bet that all the piping attached to it above will support it without much trouble. If you can fit a pipe cutter in the space it's probably best to use that for a clean cut. If you use a sawsall you will see if the blade starts to bind. If it's really binding you know the pipe is putting some downward pressure on the blade. In that case you might want to attach the device you mentioned. Sorry, I've used them and can't remember the name. If there are any horizontal pipes in the cellar that attach to the stack maybe you could wedge something under them to help support the stack. The bigger problem you might have is how you will get the 4x2 wye in place if you can't raise the upper section or drop the lower section. Maybe someone can tell you if there is a legal way to clamp in a wye if this turns out to be a problem.

Thank you, This is the 3rd set of Maestro dimmers I have hooked up. All the other ones have worked fine up until now. I think the dimmer itself must be faulty. After looking at that wiring diagram above and looking at the wiring diagram that came with the dimmers, I think that it's fairly close to being the same. In fact, looking at my notes, I tried the wiring plan from the Maestro instructions. I think I may have a defective unit. I am going to get a replacement today to see if that fixes the problem. The bottom line is that the wiring diagram above is incorrect. If the black and white wires are switched so that the white wires go to the brass screws and the black wires go to the black screws, this will represent how I originally wired it. That seems to be in-line with both the wiring manual I have and the Maestro instructions. However, it didn't work the first time.

From the pictures of your wiring it appears you have everything you need present in the boxes. You first need to determine which common goes to the load, and which one is power. Whichever common is power goes to the master switch. With both switches removed there will only be one hot wire which is what we are looking for. If that is not the box you want the master in, you can still do it by re-configuring the wiring. The fact that your 3 ways are wired with 2 wire romex is not standard, and will make things a bit more confusing. One thing we need to verify is that both boxes are on the same circuit or we could have a violation, so check that out as well. Find that hot wire and we'll go from there. My guess is that it will be wire "G". This post was edited by joefixit2 on Sat, Dec 20, 14 at 23:52