Kitchen Remodel Questions

15 years ago

I really appreciate any help you can give me!

I am about to begin a kitchen remodel, which will entail:

1) moving the refrigerator from one side of the kitchen to the other (the outlet for the fridge is shared with other above counter kitchen outlets)

2) Adding five 5 inch recessed lights (PAR30) in the ceiling (four for general ambient light and one over the sink). I would like to have the four general lights on a dimmer switch near the entrance to the kitchen, and the one over the sink on a dimmer near the sink.

3) replacing an electric range which is moving four inches

4) under cabinet lighting in four spots (I was think of xenon)

5) two hydronic toe-kick heaters (small electric fan in each to circulate the hot water)

6) a built-in microwave over the range

7) replacing the dishwasher a few inches from where it currently is.

8) two pendant lights over a peninsula

9) also installing a 115V A/C in the wall

10) switches, oulets, etc.

11) Also, all of the wall and ceiling sheetrock will be removed and the flooring down to the subfloor.

I've always done my own auto repairs, plumbing and electrical repairs and am very handy, so I feel that I can pull this off. I just finished reading most of the relevant posts on this forum and read five books on residential wiring and have a friend that will help me, who renovated his whole house, room by room.

But I still have some questions:

a) The existing outlet for the refrigerator will be covered by a pantry in the new configuration. I would like to reuse the existing circuit cable instead of running a new cable. From what I've read, if I extend that run, it has to be in an accessible box. Can I cut a square in the back of the pantry so I can access the closed box? Are there any better ways to deal with this? Also the current refrigerator circuit has other outlets on the circuit. Should it be dedicated? If so, 20 AMP or 15?

b) I understand that I need two 20 AMP circuits in the kitchen for small appliances/receptacles. From what I've read, there should be a receptacle every four feet above the counter. Is there a limit on how many receptacles should be on each 20 AMP circuit?

c) Can my 5 recessed lights (60 Watts x 5 = 300 Watts = 2.5 Amps), 2 toekick heaters (spec just says 15 AMP 14AWG), 4 under cabinet lights (180 Watts = 1.5 amps) and 2 pendant lights (60 Watt x 2 = 120 Watts = 1 amp) be on the same 15 AMP circuit? Can other lights be on that circuit?

d) the dishwasher is currently on its own 20 AMP circuit (which I will re-use), but it currently is on a single pole switch over the counter as a shutoff. Is the switch still needed per code?

e) the built-in microwave needs its own 20 amp circuit, correct?

f) the A/C installed in the wall will draw 12 amps. Does it need its own dedicated 20 amp circuit? Is 15 amp OK?

g) I will have to run 3+ new circuits and will have to fish them through closed ceilings and walls to get to the kitchen. Can the new cables be adjacent to each other or will they interfere with each other if they are that close? Should they be stapled to the studs and joists that I can access? If so, can multiple cables be under 1 staple (I wouldn't crush them)?

h) Does code say that I need an outlet at the end of my 4 foot peninsula?

I know this is a lot of questions, and can give you any additional info that you need.

Thanks in advance for your help.

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Comment (1)

Ron Natalie
15 years ago
a) This sounds OK. If you can get at the box without having to affect any finished surfaces (having to open the doors take all the food out of the pantry is fine), it meets the definition of accessible.

b) No spot on a counter wider than 12 inches, can have a spot that (along the wall) that is more than 2' from an outlet. That's roughly what you said, but note the wording...the first outlet must be 2' from the end (or closer).

You only are required to have 2 circuits. You aren't required to balance them out although sane practice would recommend that. There is no limit to the number per circuit.

c) Seems reasonable...only the small appliance circuits are enjoined from sharing other outlets.

d) If the thing is plugged in and you can get to the plug (mine for example is under the sink) that would meet the disconnect requirements. Some dishwasher installation instructions mandate a specific switch to disable it. In this case you should follow their guideline...you can still put it under the sink or someplace conspicuous only to those servicing the appliance.

e) Nearly every one I've seen has this requirement from the manufacturer. Even if not, it's highly recommended.

f) Should have it's own circuit. I'd put 20A in there anyway.

g) When fishing into closed spaces, the stapling requirements are relaxed. Since they aren't bundled tightly together, the proximity isn't a concern.
There is no limit to a staple (other than what will fit) but be careful not to bundle more than 3 together for more than 18".

h) If the penninsula is more than 24" long and 12" wide you need a receptacle.
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Comment (1)

Ron Natalie

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